Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss
06-13-2008, 11:38 AM
#6287
Shock Rebound
Steve
When you're setting the rebound on the Xray shocks do you do it just as the manual states? I have found when you completely unscrew the bottom collar from the shock body to set the rebound it lets too much shock oil out and destroys the rebound completely.
Great Thread....
When you're setting the rebound on the Xray shocks do you do it just as the manual states? I have found when you completely unscrew the bottom collar from the shock body to set the rebound it lets too much shock oil out and destroys the rebound completely.
Great Thread....
06-13-2008, 11:51 AM
#6288
PH2,
I've tried a number of different methods but lately I have been doing it similarly to how the manual shows you how... one important thing is that I hole the shock upside down when I'm doing this through... this seems to allow for finer control of the oil leaking out.
I hope this helps!
I've tried a number of different methods but lately I have been doing it similarly to how the manual shows you how... one important thing is that I hole the shock upside down when I'm doing this through... this seems to allow for finer control of the oil leaking out.
I hope this helps!
Steve
When you're setting the rebound on the Xray shocks do you do it just as the manual states? I have found when you completely unscrew the bottom collar from the shock body to set the rebound it lets too much shock oil out and destroys the rebound completely.
Great Thread....
When you're setting the rebound on the Xray shocks do you do it just as the manual states? I have found when you completely unscrew the bottom collar from the shock body to set the rebound it lets too much shock oil out and destroys the rebound completely.
Great Thread....
06-13-2008, 12:26 PM
#6289
Thanks Kevin!
IT's been a while since I did the stock motor thing, but I will let ya know about what I know and remember
In most instances I always tried to run Trinity 4499s... they always seemed to give me the best power, but they were finicky... if they got too hot they'd burn up FAST.... so if it's really hot out these might not be the best brush for you. Also, these brushes seemed to varry from batch to batch...so sometimes brushes were good, sometimes they weren't... it's sort of a roll of the dice with them...but if you find a batch that are good, you're in luck!
Next in line was the Reedy 767...which is a good brush that I used when temperatures were a problem... I never felt like they produced the same overall power as the 4499... but they were easier on the motor and less sensitive to high temperatures...they seemed pretty consistant from batch to batch as well.
The "F" brush came around after I really got out of stock racing, so I don't really have too much experience with it... but even when I tried them back to back against good 4499's I prefered the 4499's... but in my estimation they sort of fall "in between" the 4499 and the 767 when it comes to performance.
You pretty much always want a serrated brush... you just want to break the brush in for a little bit at low current... maybe 300 seconds at 2 volts or something like that...
As far as cuts on the brush go... a vertical slot in the center helps keep the brush aligned properly and generally keeps the comm cleaner and cooler ... it reduces power a little bit but not too much.
A hole in the center of the brush reduces power and keeps the brush a bit cooler too.
Cutting the edges of the brushes can effectively change the timing the in motor slightly... some motors respond well to this, others don't... but generally more timing increases motor heat in most instances.
Hope all this helps!
The reason there is probably a big difference is that we are conservative in our gearing recommendations due to the fact that most people will continue to run their vehicle on the track until the battery dies out... and with a 17.5 this can be a very long time.
Race gearing for 5 or 8 minute applications will vary with driver, traction, track size, and ambient temperatures.
Hope this helps!
IT's been a while since I did the stock motor thing, but I will let ya know about what I know and remember
In most instances I always tried to run Trinity 4499s... they always seemed to give me the best power, but they were finicky... if they got too hot they'd burn up FAST.... so if it's really hot out these might not be the best brush for you. Also, these brushes seemed to varry from batch to batch...so sometimes brushes were good, sometimes they weren't... it's sort of a roll of the dice with them...but if you find a batch that are good, you're in luck!
Next in line was the Reedy 767...which is a good brush that I used when temperatures were a problem... I never felt like they produced the same overall power as the 4499... but they were easier on the motor and less sensitive to high temperatures...they seemed pretty consistant from batch to batch as well.
The "F" brush came around after I really got out of stock racing, so I don't really have too much experience with it... but even when I tried them back to back against good 4499's I prefered the 4499's... but in my estimation they sort of fall "in between" the 4499 and the 767 when it comes to performance.
You pretty much always want a serrated brush... you just want to break the brush in for a little bit at low current... maybe 300 seconds at 2 volts or something like that...
As far as cuts on the brush go... a vertical slot in the center helps keep the brush aligned properly and generally keeps the comm cleaner and cooler ... it reduces power a little bit but not too much.
A hole in the center of the brush reduces power and keeps the brush a bit cooler too.
Cutting the edges of the brushes can effectively change the timing the in motor slightly... some motors respond well to this, others don't... but generally more timing increases motor heat in most instances.
Hope all this helps!
The reason there is probably a big difference is that we are conservative in our gearing recommendations due to the fact that most people will continue to run their vehicle on the track until the battery dies out... and with a 17.5 this can be a very long time.
Race gearing for 5 or 8 minute applications will vary with driver, traction, track size, and ambient temperatures.
Hope this helps!
any experience with the trinity 4503? (the "99+" brush that says its more power, same wear as the regular 4499)
06-13-2008, 01:42 PM
#6290
Brilliant!
Brilliant! I will give it a try...
Thanks!
Thanks!
06-14-2008, 08:34 PM
#6292
I'd start out around 4.0 and go from there!
06-14-2008, 08:46 PM
#6294
Nope, no onroad nats for Novak.
06-17-2008, 07:50 AM
#6297
No problem guys!
06-20-2008, 09:02 AM
#6299
Tell me about it!
06-20-2008, 09:39 AM
#6300
Hi Steve. I installed the 2 cell lipo cutoff in my Slash and it seemed to cause the throttle to stutter when accelerating from zero. I know it's supposed to do that when the battery is low and the LED would come on. The battery was fully charged so the LED never came on.
I was only bench testing and didn't run the car outside to see if the condition would last beyond the first few moments the car is run, but is the stuttering upon start up normal? Thanks!
I was only bench testing and didn't run the car outside to see if the condition would last beyond the first few moments the car is run, but is the stuttering upon start up normal? Thanks!