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Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss

Ask Steve "The Evicerator" Weiss

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Old 06-12-2008, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Ryan,

I just looked over the addendum that is included with the GTB and you are correct in taht there is a mistake there.

When the cut off has activated the red and green LEDs will blink alternately.

Thanks for your help Steve, much appreciated.

Great thread too!!

Cheers
Ryan
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Old 06-13-2008, 11:38 AM
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Default Shock Rebound

Steve

When you're setting the rebound on the Xray shocks do you do it just as the manual states? I have found when you completely unscrew the bottom collar from the shock body to set the rebound it lets too much shock oil out and destroys the rebound completely.

Great Thread....

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Old 06-13-2008, 11:51 AM
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PH2,

I've tried a number of different methods but lately I have been doing it similarly to how the manual shows you how... one important thing is that I hole the shock upside down when I'm doing this through... this seems to allow for finer control of the oil leaking out.

I hope this helps!

Originally Posted by pH2 View Post
Steve

When you're setting the rebound on the Xray shocks do you do it just as the manual states? I have found when you completely unscrew the bottom collar from the shock body to set the rebound it lets too much shock oil out and destroys the rebound completely.

Great Thread....

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Old 06-13-2008, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Thanks Kevin!

IT's been a while since I did the stock motor thing, but I will let ya know about what I know and remember

In most instances I always tried to run Trinity 4499s... they always seemed to give me the best power, but they were finicky... if they got too hot they'd burn up FAST.... so if it's really hot out these might not be the best brush for you. Also, these brushes seemed to varry from batch to batch...so sometimes brushes were good, sometimes they weren't... it's sort of a roll of the dice with them...but if you find a batch that are good, you're in luck!

Next in line was the Reedy 767...which is a good brush that I used when temperatures were a problem... I never felt like they produced the same overall power as the 4499... but they were easier on the motor and less sensitive to high temperatures...they seemed pretty consistant from batch to batch as well.

The "F" brush came around after I really got out of stock racing, so I don't really have too much experience with it... but even when I tried them back to back against good 4499's I prefered the 4499's... but in my estimation they sort of fall "in between" the 4499 and the 767 when it comes to performance.

You pretty much always want a serrated brush... you just want to break the brush in for a little bit at low current... maybe 300 seconds at 2 volts or something like that...

As far as cuts on the brush go... a vertical slot in the center helps keep the brush aligned properly and generally keeps the comm cleaner and cooler ... it reduces power a little bit but not too much.

A hole in the center of the brush reduces power and keeps the brush a bit cooler too.

Cutting the edges of the brushes can effectively change the timing the in motor slightly... some motors respond well to this, others don't... but generally more timing increases motor heat in most instances.

Hope all this helps!





The reason there is probably a big difference is that we are conservative in our gearing recommendations due to the fact that most people will continue to run their vehicle on the track until the battery dies out... and with a 17.5 this can be a very long time.

Race gearing for 5 or 8 minute applications will vary with driver, traction, track size, and ambient temperatures.

Hope this helps!

any experience with the trinity 4503? (the "99+" brush that says its more power, same wear as the regular 4499)
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:42 PM
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Thumbs up Brilliant!

Brilliant! I will give it a try...

Thanks!
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Old 06-14-2008, 05:08 PM
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Steve, could you give me a starting point FDR for the 17.5 brushless system. I am putting it in the new hotbodies TC.
thanks.
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:34 PM
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I'd start out around 4.0 and go from there!
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:40 PM
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steve,

are you going to the onroad nats next week ???
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:46 PM
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Nope, no onroad nats for Novak.
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Old 06-14-2008, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Weiss View Post
Thanks Kevin!

IT's been a while since I did the stock motor thing, but I will let ya know about what I know and remember

8< ------------------------ snip

Hope this helps!
Thanks Steve, it has helped.
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Old 06-15-2008, 07:03 AM
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Thank you steve.
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:50 AM
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No problem guys!
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Old 06-20-2008, 07:58 AM
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Page 3 WTF???????????????
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:02 AM
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Tell me about it!
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:39 AM
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Hi Steve. I installed the 2 cell lipo cutoff in my Slash and it seemed to cause the throttle to stutter when accelerating from zero. I know it's supposed to do that when the battery is low and the LED would come on. The battery was fully charged so the LED never came on.

I was only bench testing and didn't run the car outside to see if the condition would last beyond the first few moments the car is run, but is the stuttering upon start up normal? Thanks!
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