1LikesBarracuda from Alex racing
04-07-2003, 07:45 PM
#1816
Luckily indoors with low grip it doesn't seem to matter as much about good cells for stock motor's, the extra punch is wasted with wheelspin. Just reasonable cells that last a race and a good motor and speedo. My Matrix V10R certainly is a good stock motor, revvy little sod, although needs a bit more maintance than a P2K2 or even my GM3 which I thought was revvy before 
the Matrix's are whole level higher.
Last season outdoors with mod motors though it was kind of depressing, my cells were ok then, it helped that they were new, they lasted the 5mins fine but they didn't have the power of high voltage matched packs. As for motors thats where I lost out the most I think, I went for a 12turn somewhere between a high quality big name hand wound and a machine wound, it was ok but not good enough to hang with the fast guys of the club. When I went to the Scottish Championship events it was a lot worse, the sponsered guys were just flying, I would be scared driving at the speeds they were doing on the larger tracks. It's time they started running brushless more widely so there will be less of an advantage to be gained with electronics.
19T shouldn't be too bad for needing great cells and with motor's limited to £30 it will be better on my wallet. The sponsered guys will be doing 12t anyway so I should be ok for speed as long as my cells are ok.
the Matrix's are whole level higher.Last season outdoors with mod motors though it was kind of depressing, my cells were ok then, it helped that they were new, they lasted the 5mins fine but they didn't have the power of high voltage matched packs. As for motors thats where I lost out the most I think, I went for a 12turn somewhere between a high quality big name hand wound and a machine wound, it was ok but not good enough to hang with the fast guys of the club. When I went to the Scottish Championship events it was a lot worse, the sponsered guys were just flying, I would be scared driving at the speeds they were doing on the larger tracks. It's time they started running brushless more widely so there will be less of an advantage to be gained with electronics.
19T shouldn't be too bad for needing great cells and with motor's limited to £30 it will be better on my wallet. The sponsered guys will be doing 12t anyway so I should be ok for speed as long as my cells are ok.
04-07-2003, 08:39 PM
#1817
Originally posted by Herminator
Luckily indoors with low grip it doesn't seem to matter as much about good cells for stock motor's, the extra punch is wasted with wheelspin. Just reasonable cells that last a race and a good motor and speedo. My Matrix V10R certainly is a good stock motor, revvy little sod, although needs a bit more maintance than a P2K2 or even my GM3 which I thought was revvy before the Matrix's are whole level higher.
Last season outdoors with mod motors though it was kind of depressing, my cells were ok then, it helped that they were new, they lasted the 5mins fine but they didn't have the power of high voltage matched packs. As for motors thats where I lost out the most I think, I went for a 12turn somewhere between a high quality big name hand wound and a machine wound, it was ok but not good enough to hang with the fast guys of the club. When I went to the Scottish Championship events it was a lot worse, the sponsered guys were just flying, I would be scared driving at the speeds they were doing on the larger tracks. It's time they started running brushless more widely so there will be less of an advantage to be gained with electronics.
19T shouldn't be too bad for needing great cells and with motor's limited to £30 it will be better on my wallet. The sponsered guys will be doing 12t anyway so I should be ok for speed as long as my cells are ok.
Luckily indoors with low grip it doesn't seem to matter as much about good cells for stock motor's, the extra punch is wasted with wheelspin. Just reasonable cells that last a race and a good motor and speedo. My Matrix V10R certainly is a good stock motor, revvy little sod, although needs a bit more maintance than a P2K2 or even my GM3 which I thought was revvy before
the Matrix's are whole level higher.Last season outdoors with mod motors though it was kind of depressing, my cells were ok then, it helped that they were new, they lasted the 5mins fine but they didn't have the power of high voltage matched packs. As for motors thats where I lost out the most I think, I went for a 12turn somewhere between a high quality big name hand wound and a machine wound, it was ok but not good enough to hang with the fast guys of the club. When I went to the Scottish Championship events it was a lot worse, the sponsered guys were just flying, I would be scared driving at the speeds they were doing on the larger tracks. It's time they started running brushless more widely so there will be less of an advantage to be gained with electronics.
19T shouldn't be too bad for needing great cells and with motor's limited to £30 it will be better on my wallet. The sponsered guys will be doing 12t anyway so I should be ok for speed as long as my cells are ok.
-Dave
04-07-2003, 08:44 PM
#1818
Dave,
My plate guy is MIA. Have Tres dial you in and I will pay him. Sorry for the delay. I forgot about it until now.
My plate guy is MIA. Have Tres dial you in and I will pay him. Sorry for the delay. I forgot about it until now.
04-07-2003, 09:04 PM
#1819
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Sounds like the 19T class would be more to your tastes Hermi'
-Dave
Sounds like the 19T class would be more to your tastes Hermi'
-Dave
he won a lot of races last season, this season I was passing him on an average day 
girls and real cars have distracted him at his age I'll see how the 15T chrome touring goes this weekend, we are testing the outdoor club venue 
04-08-2003, 09:17 AM
#1820
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
04-08-2003, 10:30 AM
#1821
Tech Adept
mike
I should get there in time for the second set of qualifiers on sunday and if yur still havin glitchin probs you can run my 27 receiver.try-n-find a module for Ive only got one.
04-08-2003, 11:14 AM
#1822
Originally posted by Michal101
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
Do you have a pic of your torque rod setup?
BTW,
Thanks for the avitar!!!
04-08-2003, 12:53 PM
#1823
Re: Re: Re: Re: oops!!
Originally posted by Michal101
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
Hi,
I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners
Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen
Temp: 65 degrees and sunny
Running line: Approx. 700 ft
Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs
Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0
Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)
Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm
Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.
Mike
Hey mike did you ever get the glitching problem to go away.????
-Dave
04-08-2003, 03:41 PM
#1829
Re: Barracuda Set up
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Hey all here is another Good set up for the R1 and R2
Click here for the Set up
-Dave
Hey all here is another Good set up for the R1 and R2
Click here for the Set up
-Dave
My New Body Pic's