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Old 04-07-2003, 08:45 PM   #1816
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Luckily indoors with low grip it doesn't seem to matter as much about good cells for stock motor's, the extra punch is wasted with wheelspin. Just reasonable cells that last a race and a good motor and speedo. My Matrix V10R certainly is a good stock motor, revvy little sod, although needs a bit more maintance than a P2K2 or even my GM3 which I thought was revvy before the Matrix's are whole level higher.
Last season outdoors with mod motors though it was kind of depressing, my cells were ok then, it helped that they were new, they lasted the 5mins fine but they didn't have the power of high voltage matched packs. As for motors thats where I lost out the most I think, I went for a 12turn somewhere between a high quality big name hand wound and a machine wound, it was ok but not good enough to hang with the fast guys of the club. When I went to the Scottish Championship events it was a lot worse, the sponsered guys were just flying, I would be scared driving at the speeds they were doing on the larger tracks. It's time they started running brushless more widely so there will be less of an advantage to be gained with electronics.
19T shouldn't be too bad for needing great cells and with motor's limited to 30 it will be better on my wallet. The sponsered guys will be doing 12t anyway so I should be ok for speed as long as my cells are ok.
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Old 04-07-2003, 09:39 PM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
Luckily indoors with low grip it doesn't seem to matter as much about good cells for stock motor's, the extra punch is wasted with wheelspin. Just reasonable cells that last a race and a good motor and speedo. My Matrix V10R certainly is a good stock motor, revvy little sod, although needs a bit more maintance than a P2K2 or even my GM3 which I thought was revvy before the Matrix's are whole level higher.
Last season outdoors with mod motors though it was kind of depressing, my cells were ok then, it helped that they were new, they lasted the 5mins fine but they didn't have the power of high voltage matched packs. As for motors thats where I lost out the most I think, I went for a 12turn somewhere between a high quality big name hand wound and a machine wound, it was ok but not good enough to hang with the fast guys of the club. When I went to the Scottish Championship events it was a lot worse, the sponsered guys were just flying, I would be scared driving at the speeds they were doing on the larger tracks. It's time they started running brushless more widely so there will be less of an advantage to be gained with electronics.
19T shouldn't be too bad for needing great cells and with motor's limited to 30 it will be better on my wallet. The sponsered guys will be doing 12t anyway so I should be ok for speed as long as my cells are ok.
Sounds like the 19T class would be more to your tastes Hermi'

-Dave
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Old 04-07-2003, 09:44 PM   #1818
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Dave,

My plate guy is MIA. Have Tres dial you in and I will pay him. Sorry for the delay. I forgot about it until now.
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Old 04-07-2003, 10:04 PM   #1819
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Sounds like the 19T class would be more to your tastes Hermi'

-Dave
Hence I'm running 19T in the Scottish champs, but at club level there are only about 25 drivers and it won't be worth running wo classes, although it often feels like there are, half the drivers have slower mod motors and lower prive range speedo's, which is plenty fast enough for them. The others will have 12turns and good equipment, a few of the not quite so fast guys will use anything down to 16T on a bad week, normaly 14's or 15's. I can beat the guys with 14's, probably using my 15x4 or crappy 12x2 once I've done a little work on them, I'll just be in a sort of middle ground with no one to race properly. Ahead of me there will be about 6 guys with good 12T's that I could get in the mix with if I had a good 12 too, especially with the way the Cuda has been going. Hey I managed to get the 3rd fastest run with 5 of those guys there this week, the 6th has quit racing indoors since he was doing so badly he won a lot of races last season, this season I was passing him on an average day girls and real cars have distracted him at his age I'll see how the 15T chrome touring goes this weekend, we are testing the outdoor club venue
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Old 04-08-2003, 10:17 AM   #1820
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Hi,

I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners

Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen

Temp: 65 degrees and sunny

Running line: Approx. 700 ft

Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs

Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0

Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)

Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm

Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.

Mike
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Old 04-08-2003, 11:30 AM   #1821
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I should get there in time for the second set of qualifiers on sunday and if yur still havin glitchin probs you can run my 27 receiver.try-n-find a module for Ive only got one.


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Old 04-08-2003, 12:14 PM   #1822
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Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
Hi,

I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners

Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen

Temp: 65 degrees and sunny

Running line: Approx. 700 ft

Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs

Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0

Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)

Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm

Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.

Mike
Mike,

Do you have a pic of your torque rod setup?

BTW,


Thanks for the avitar!!!
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Old 04-08-2003, 01:53 PM   #1823
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Default Re: Re: Re: Re: oops!!

Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
Hi,

I just got back from racing my R2 at the Durham, NC RC Speedway, the host of this years ROAR onroad asphalt race in June. The track had tons of pollen on it, which made traction very interesting. Anyway, here is my set-up and the car felt very good and kept tight into the corners

Track Conditions: Smooth with a dusting of pollen

Temp: 65 degrees and sunny

Running line: Approx. 700 ft

Shock: Front 40 wt and HPI #6849 pink springs
Rear 30 wt and HPI #6846 green springs

Droop: Front 5.5 (mainly to get the ride height down without adjusting the position of the shocks)
Rear 4.0

Toe: Front 1 degree out
Rear stock setting (will be trying the new R2 rear hubs #6113 next week)

Ride height: Front 5 mm
Rear 5 mm

Comments: Front one way. Torque rods on the front hubs back to the chassis and the aluminum center shaft holders, part # A6720X, which made a world of difference in the smoothness of the drive train of the car. Well worth it. And this is with the stock shock piston hole. I will be trying out the 1mm hole modification sometime this week.

Mike

Hey mike did you ever get the glitching problem to go away.????
-Dave
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Old 04-08-2003, 02:03 PM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer

Do you have a pic of your torque rod setup?

I'll look for one I think that I have one or two pic's

-Dave
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Old 04-08-2003, 03:34 PM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally posted by Herminator
LOL, what you doing with all those spare chassis?

Busy upgrading to a better balanced chassis than what came with the R1

-Dave
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:11 PM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
Mike,

Do you have a pic of your torque rod setup?

BTW,


Thanks for the avitar!!!
I think that this is the Pic' of the torque rods ??
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File Type: jpg r2 torque rod.jpg (129.0 KB, 72 views)
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:25 PM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally posted by RBLove
Dave,

My plate guy is MIA. Have Tres dial you in and I will pay him. Sorry for the delay. I forgot about it until now.
PM right back at you Rob

-Dave
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:34 PM   #1828
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Default Barracuda Set up

Hey all here is another Good set up for the R1 and R2


Click here for the Set up

-Dave
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:41 PM   #1829
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Default Re: Barracuda Set up

Quote:
Originally posted by JDM_DOHC_SiR
Hey all here is another Good set up for the R1 and R2


Click here for the Set up

-Dave
LOL, how about a translation, couldn't understand a line of that
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Old 04-08-2003, 04:49 PM   #1830
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Thumbs up My New Body Pic's

Have a look Jason "BIG DOG" Lutz painted these bad boys for me

-Dave
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File Type: jpg dsc02773.jpg (160.8 KB, 70 views)
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