jeff jenkins

iTrader: (84)

it definately could be made of carbon fiber for sure.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

How tight do you tighten the rear bulkhead, you know the two plastic pieces that hold the ring & pinion, and differential?

I just rebuilt mine (new bulkheads), and set my ryobi cordless driver to 1, and tightened the 6 screws until the driver's clutch engaged. Likely a fraction of an inch pound. Most screw heads just barely made contact with the bulkhead, one was even 1 turn above the bulkhead.

Turned the pinion shaft and there was considerable resistance. Right side output drive wouldn't even turn. Loosened each screw about 1/4 turn and much smoother. Nothing wobbles nor can be moved in a direction not intended.

Is it just the plastic is a little on the tight end of the tolerance, and needs some break in? I'm thinking of running a pack thru it and checking again, perhaps tighten 1/16 of a turn at a time.

Scottrik

iTrader: (261)

Jeff if you're making arms the ones you should do are the 200mm conversion arms for the TC3, particularly the fronts. Those are like hen's teeth any more and the oval guys were buying 'em up a couple years ago for silly prices. It may be too late if folks have given up finding any and moved on to other chassis but might be worth taking a look into.

If needed I have some NIP to take dimensions from in exchange for a couple sets of printed ones.

Scott

goathog02

iTrader: (5)

Subscribing. Just bought a roller I'm looking to make into a VTA. Good stuff here.
What is the standard servo I should be looking for? Not looking to break the bank just yet, so nothing made out of gold...

Will a standard sized servo fit? Anything I should stay away from?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

Savox makes a decent budget servo, just don't use it with an older type Spektrum receiver or it can brown out, and then bad things happen.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Savox, futaba, protek , are all great...

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Setup the front with anti-dive or kick-up ? For VTA on medium to high grip asphalt, medium size track. Right now it has kick-up, front of the front arms are higher than rear. Looks like the stock plastic hing pin holders are in there with no spacers.

killeraxemannic

iTrader: (1)

I had been using the cheapo $8 futaba servos for a long time. Finally spent the money on the Savox SC-1251MG and I am pretty impressed with how much better it is than what I had been using. It's a little pricey but well worth it. There's also the Spektrum S6070 that sells for a few $ cheaper which I am pretty sure is a rebranded Savox.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

A standard sized servo will fit, but adds weight. There are lighter ones out there.

I have one of these, great quality but not cheap. Doesn't glitch, has enough torque and speed for VTA, reliable. Never been unhappy with a Savox.

Savox SC-1251MG Low Profile Digital "High Speed" Metal Gear Servo
http://www.amain.com/savox-sc-1251mg...-servo/p183313

anr211

iTrader: (11)

I switched to a futaba s9551 after running a savox 1251 for awhile and I felt more connected to the car with the futaba. For that reason I feel the futaba is worth the extra $20.

DarthRacer

iTrader: (8)

+1, this is what I have been running in my TC4 and now a TC6. Good speed, centering, and saves space.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Front diff. Should I use a ball diff or a slipper spool? Why? I have the club spool in there right now and the car just won't turn in as tight as it should, nor maintain a tight line. Steering expo @ 100%. Tried different camber, toe, spring settings and I feel that having both front tires spinning the same speed is the cause. Even on a fast 180* sweeper I have to let off the throttle since the car understeers so much

I'm not sure i'd want used slipper pad material caught in the ring and pinion so I'm leaning towards this front ball diff: http://www3.omnimodels.com/cgi-bin/w...SCC1128&P=WR&I Can you get a front ball diff tight enough so the car will track in a straight line yet still slip as needed in a hairpin turn?

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

I would not recommend running a front diff because I have found that it can ruin the balance of the car.

A slipper spool is just a spool that can give in a crash, preserving your drivetrain. I run a slipper spool in every car I can because broken driveshafts are expensive and really ruin your day.

One aspect that I would recommend looking at if your car is having issues pushing is actually the rear diff, with running VTA your rear tires are larger and more grippy than the front, and if the rear differential is not free this can cause push.

Are you running full front sauce?

Other things that can cause this push with a front spool is excessive rear toe, particularly in a high-speed or on-power corner.

One other thing that may seem trivial is making sure your car isn't bottoming out under cornering forces.

I'm just a bit at a loss, I have never had a problem making a touring car steer hard. I can make mine do donuts through the sweeper with a few tuning changes.

RotorTruck

iTrader: (2)

Running full sauce on all 4 tires. 1* toe out front, 2* toe in rear. Rear diff is not tight, but not loose either. I loosened as much as I think I can and not have the car pull too much to the left. The looser that rear ball diff is, the more it pulls to the left on power.

5.5mm ride height front and rear, front spring AE Silver and 40wt 2 hole piston, rear spring AE Green 30wt 2 hole piston. I don't think I'm bottoming out on every turn.

DesertRat

iTrader: (2)

It seems like you have a perfectly reasonable setup on the car, it should steer just fine.

I would actually try swapping the springs front to rear.