Team Associated TC4
My car accelerated and turned too fast for me at that very small track, and my body was already shot from previous hits... I also forgot to heat my tires up with the tire warmers before the race. I was really rusty..lol...
With will worn X-patterns on carpet and 200 cars running over three straight days . Steering get aggressive. My posted setup is to reduce front grip.
My base line spring setup is AE Silver rear and HPI silver fronts .
The shorty pack thing made my car very competitive with modern touring cars . But outdoor at the Kissimmee track , big battery !!!
Me likely !!!
My base line spring setup is AE Silver rear and HPI silver fronts .
The shorty pack thing made my car very competitive with modern touring cars . But outdoor at the Kissimmee track , big battery !!!
Me likely !!!
Will be running my flexi tc3 at Superior next weekend.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (127)
Nice video that yellow car was hooked....
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Fellas im thinking of trying my hand with a tc and loke the tc4 whats a faor price for a used 1?
Used tub tc4 $50 to $80.... CF tc4 $80 to $120....
When you are setting ride height, are you measuring it with the wheels on, or the a-arm drop from the chassis? I ask this, because the manual shows that you are supposed to use the a arm for the measurement, but I've always thought ride height was the distance between the bottom most part of the chassis and the ground with the suspension working as it should, and wheels on the vehicle.
Cool thanks. What is the order to set the suspension? Droop, then ride height, or what?
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
I ran my stock tub tc4(no drilling) with a similar to Ray's setup on a pretty slippery carpet track with no traction issues at all... I did remove my swaybars though,and my driving sucked after almost a year off the carpet. Here is the video, I am the white slow car:
Http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hHsrh8m...ure%3Dyoutu.be
Http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=hHsrh8m...ure%3Dyoutu.be
Ray - Thanks for the valuable and proven set up 411 - because of availability of this info I'm modding up my TC4 for 17.5 action (mostly GT) for club racing...lots of fast guys there and even before these mods was surprised to find out my TC4 was not off the pace by that much.
for asphalt have you tired running with no sway bars at all? seems to be the ticket at the 2 asphalt tracks I run even with some XT4's and AET6's...I run my TC4 with none...found it to be much more hooked up than with.
also
just received LOSI LCD bones and after putting them together found they function with a lot of bind & sticktion, this is bench testing haven't run on track yet...is there a wear in period or a trick to make them work smoothly?
for asphalt have you tired running with no sway bars at all? seems to be the ticket at the 2 asphalt tracks I run even with some XT4's and AET6's...I run my TC4 with none...found it to be much more hooked up than with.
also
just received LOSI LCD bones and after putting them together found they function with a lot of bind & sticktion, this is bench testing haven't run on track yet...is there a wear in period or a trick to make them work smoothly?
Tech Master
iTrader: (18)
Thanks guys ! Bert , Karl ran an Xray T3 2013 in USGT and his Awesomatix in 17.5 . Top three in 17.5, all Awesomatix. Manny Flores was running an Awesomatix in USGT .Also Brain Wynn was running a FT TC4.
Having trouble save data in the AE setup sheet on my Mac , any help ?
This is a jpeg copy of the file, till I figure it out.
Additional info not on sheet :
Inside legs of corner braces removed
Outside tub wall between corner braces cut down 3mm
Motor mount cam heat sink removed along with the long "L" section
Steering rack servo saver glued and tight , Servo saver added to servo
5/8" holes drilled one under each diff and two under steering rack
Arms centered front and back
Droop is 1.5mm over ride height ,front and rear
Shocks are SpecR R-1 with 3 hole pistons , front 1mm piston holes and 1.1mm in the rear
Motor is Revtech Killshot, torque model
Having trouble save data in the AE setup sheet on my Mac , any help ?
This is a jpeg copy of the file, till I figure it out.
Additional info not on sheet :
Inside legs of corner braces removed
Outside tub wall between corner braces cut down 3mm
Motor mount cam heat sink removed along with the long "L" section
Steering rack servo saver glued and tight , Servo saver added to servo
5/8" holes drilled one under each diff and two under steering rack
Arms centered front and back
Droop is 1.5mm over ride height ,front and rear
Shocks are SpecR R-1 with 3 hole pistons , front 1mm piston holes and 1.1mm in the rear
Motor is Revtech Killshot, torque model
The losi LCD drives won't feel free if you don't cut the shrink wrap right after the pins. You'll need a very small and sharp blade to cut them properly.... After they're cut they will be seriously loose.... Happy racing.. I cut mine with a new razor blade before installing them on the car..... It works flawlessly......
Ray - Thanks for the valuable and proven set up 411 - because of availability of this info I'm modding up my TC4 for 17.5 action (mostly GT) for club racing...lots of fast guys there and even before these mods was surprised to find out my TC4 was not off the pace by that much.
for asphalt have you tired running with no sway bars at all? seems to be the ticket at the 2 asphalt tracks I run even with some XT4's and AET6's...I run my TC4 with none...found it to be much more hooked up than with.
also
just received LOSI LCD bones and after putting them together found they function with a lot of bind & sticktion, this is bench testing haven't run on track yet...is there a wear in period or a trick to make them work smoothly?
for asphalt have you tired running with no sway bars at all? seems to be the ticket at the 2 asphalt tracks I run even with some XT4's and AET6's...I run my TC4 with none...found it to be much more hooked up than with.
also
just received LOSI LCD bones and after putting them together found they function with a lot of bind & sticktion, this is bench testing haven't run on track yet...is there a wear in period or a trick to make them work smoothly?
The losi LCD drives won't feel free if you don't cut the shrink wrap right after the pins. You'll need a very small and sharp blade to cut them properly.... After they're cut they will be seriously loose.... Happy racing.. I cut mine with a new razor blade before installing them on the car..... It works flawlessly......