i_got_m8_4_$85

AT least im not the only one,

and thank you dave, one last question,

pro dive and kickup is when the front or rear arm mount is higher on that end of the car?

koabich

Pro-Dive/Kick-up is the exact opposite of Anti-Dive/Anti-Squat.

With Pro-Drive/Kick-up the rear hingepin mount is higher than the front one at that end of the car causing the arms (front or rear) to angle or slope towards the front bumper.

With Anti-Dive/Anti-Squat the front hingepin mount is higher than the rear one at that end of the car causing the arms (front or rear) to angle or slope towards the rear bumper.

Bob Barry

iTrader: (22)

In case anyone is interested, one of my buddies is selling a BMI TC4 Chassis kit for 70.00. PM me for details. He does have a pic posted up in the for sale section.

Thanks
Bob

i_got_m8_4_$85

thank you very much

signal21

can anyone answer this??

i_got_m8_4_$85

i use the team losi wrench for the tires, but anything will probably be good, or at least better than the kit one, the full wrench makes it alot easier to tighten the wheels so they do not fall off, it also goes further back inside of it if thats the problem your having,


also another tip that i use, mabe you know about it already, if you put your wheel nuts on backward (with the nylon on the inside toward the tire) it never comes off, never

eg

iTrader: (1)

I get the wrench that came with the kit and use a dremel to sand it's outer perimeter to the desired size needed to make it fit in hole.

ALBERTO

iTrader: (23)

who gave you that ingenis idea????????

i_got_m8_4_$85

Paul

this probably isnt the place to post this but ill say it anyway,

on a pulsar 2 when it says set discharge votage is that the cutoff voltage?

eg

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know why the rear diff on the FTC4 have to be rebuilt so frequently? Even if you just re-lubricate the diff; after a day of racing it's extremely gritty again. I usually have to replace the balls and then it will last me 3 to 4 weekends of racing.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

in my experience, the plastic diffs are a little more finicky because the outdrives can flex. once i build a new plastic diff i recheck it after every run or two and keep resetting it until it stays consistent... ive had my plastic diff in the car for over 10 days of practice/racing and its still fine...

the steel diffs are wonderful... build them once, recheck/reset them 1-3 times at most, and they stay butter smooth for eons... the last one i had in my car went 4 months before i took it out cause i had a few bad spills that wore the outdrives...

tc4kid191

steel solves all...

eg

iTrader: (1)

How tight do you set your diffs? Maybe I'm running my rear diff to loose..

bummy

I LIKE THE alloy diff. out drives. seem to work great for me.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

i set my diffs on the car... install and tighten per manual instructions, fully tighten and back out half turn or so... in the car remove a camber link and wheel on the side where the adjustment screw head is... long side for plastic diffs, short side for steel...

i grab the remaining wheel/tire and put my thumb on the spur gear, then i use the wheel i removed and put it back on the hex so i can get some leverage and i try to turn it... if it doesnt slip i loosen it an 1/8 turn and repeat... loosening till it just slips, then retighten about 1/8th turn... if the first "test" is slipping then i go the other way... tighten 1/8 turn till its tight, then back down an 1/8th...

once done the diff should be super smooth...