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Old 12-17-2005, 08:24 PM
  #7366  
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Paragon use to make a gear lube that went on dry and then during the race it turned to butter like you mentioned. sweet stuff.
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Old 12-17-2005, 08:55 PM
  #7367  
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i dont use any lube in my tc4, as you staited the gears are self lubed. means that a anti friction compound in the gears them sell. like high graphtie content etc etc. i have never had a problem. i sumtimes put a small amount of graphite powder on the pinion and spur gear. help run smoother great stuff.
even this stuff that caterpillar make's callled dry lube. comes in a spray form goes on wet then dries out excellent stuff. cheers
just my 2 cents worth.
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Old 12-17-2005, 11:14 PM
  #7368  
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I'm in the process of building a FT TC4 & I'm running a Novak SS+ 8.5 Brushless, 100T 64P spur & I'm thinking I'm going to need a 34-36T pinion..sound about right?

Rick

Last edited by RHuckster; 12-18-2005 at 02:27 AM.
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:02 AM
  #7369  
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Originally Posted by RHuckster
I'm in the process of building a FT TC4 & I'm running a Novak 5800 Brushless, 100T 64P spur & I'm thinking I'm going to need a 34-36T pinion..sound about right?

Rick


Way too high...start around 27 with the 5800.
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Old 12-18-2005, 01:34 AM
  #7370  
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SOVIET: Sean, news travels fast... i already heard about your win!! Pesky belt cars are soon to be whupped. Great run... and keep up the pace!

WYD: 4 seconds shouldnt be too hard to find, assuming the layout is the same, and considering the loss of grip. Have you noticed if the steering swing rack feels right to you or not? The hole for adjustment is a sweet trick... it became popular (AE wise) when the B4 came out and made adjustments alot faster w/o damaging the ballcups from constant removal. My B4 is in the closet... still dirty from a run at the Tiltyard over a year ago!! I didnt get up that way this weekend... or anywhere for that fact. My car is in the middle of a... transformation... of sorts. I ran into a bit of problems sourcing the materials i needed to finish the job... and the handfitting took a bit more time than anticipated. The end result was well worth the wait though. Ill add pics tomorrow... i have to clean the bench off to snap em... WAY too much graphite/carbon shavings and dust everywhere!! Im gonna chomp on a few X cars round my way for sure. Some of em are gettin too big for dem britches.



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Old 12-18-2005, 06:18 AM
  #7371  
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I used to use White Lightening on my mountain bikes, I really like the stuff.
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Old 12-18-2005, 07:35 AM
  #7372  
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Hey Dave the layout was the same but when we run again on the 7th they will have a nice new layout for the new 06 season. Yeah the ball ends being cut out some was a great help. I used the rear ones once and didn't pop the balls off so you gotta like that as adjustments are a breeze. I will take pics for those who never seen this done.

I had some steering issues but it was 95% a ball end that fit relly tight and was binding up everything and then the other part was a tight steering knuckle but when I went thru and tightened them up good that problem was solved.

The steering rack has some slop but has no binding to my car tracks well. I thought about order a aluminum steering rack for it but I didn't get that far yet. Still thinking about it but I might go ahead and do that. My steering racks having slop has never been an issue for me as a little slop is fine and I shim them if needed so no biggie. Very minor issue but easily solved.

Here is something I thought was a little funny. I ran 32's tires the 1st heat and then felt brave and ran RP 36's for the next run and went 3 seconds faster. Car pushed but traction was good front and rear. For the 3rd heat to get a little more steering I went to the blue Associated spring (Had the gold on the front) to soften it a tad to get a little more steeering overall. Damn if it didn't seem to push more. Nothing bad but it was worse. For the main I used a little more front compound and it was a tad better. I don't compound the whole front but I think next time I run I will work on making my car work when compounding the whole front tire. More consistant since I don't need to worry if I used to little or too much on the front.
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Old 12-18-2005, 12:13 PM
  #7373  
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I remember having a silly push when i was there too. The softer front spring seems to let the front wash out. When i was there i tried partial front tire saucing... made the car feel loose and then tight... seemed to let the car drive squarish... KT sauced the whole tire put it down and then it just pushed like a dump truck. At least it was consistently pushing...LOL I ended up adding a bit of rear squat to help give me some steering... which brings to mind... are you using the circle and X-3.0 rear blocks? That will get rid of some more of that push if not. Here of late i have been running the outer position on the rear shock tower with a softer damping and spring setup... it seems to give me more entry steering and a small amount more of exit steering than if i ran a conventional rear shock setup. It allowed me to get rid of that rear swaybar which i had come to rely on for so long to work with my driving style. I ran the RP36's when i was at The C... mine were shot in four runs. Im not saying worn through to the insert shot... but didnt give the same grip as a new tire. I had definitely been on the rug too long!



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Old 12-18-2005, 12:39 PM
  #7374  
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I do have the circle block on but with the 2.0 rear block so I have around 1 degree of rear toe a side or so. I might just go back to the gold front spring on the car. Jon Williams gave me some 36's with 2 runs on them. I know have 5 runs and they really look great overall. I'm not running any sways on the car at all. My shock positions are only in one hole from the outside on the front and rear towers. I run the either the blue or gold springs on the front and blues on the rear at this time. 40wt oil and the standard #2 piston.

Overall I'm very happy with the car. I will mess with the anti squat some next time I run the car. New layout might mess with me some as I run a one way but depending on the flow I might put the spool in. Just depends on what they do.
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Old 12-18-2005, 02:01 PM
  #7375  
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What gearing is best for a TC4 on an indoor carpet track?
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Old 12-19-2005, 08:30 AM
  #7376  
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Originally Posted by nmt6789
What gearing is best for a TC4 on an indoor carpet track?
Really depends on the size of the track and how tight of a layout they have. Also what type of motor would you be running?
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Old 12-19-2005, 08:33 AM
  #7377  
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My rule of thumb for stock is start at 35/100 and work from there.
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
My rule of thumb for stock is start at 35/100 and work from there.

Thats a bit high don't you think Bob? You're exceeding most stock motor's rollout with average tires and a 35t pinion.

I'd say start 32/100 with 64 pitch. 33/100 is for .94" rollout with a monster stock and 57-56.5mm tires.
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:33 AM
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last race I ran 37/100 with 53mm tires. 57 mm I would probably be around 34 or 35 pinion. anything smaller and your going to over rev the motor and miss the power band. My motors do come off around 180 deg so that is a bit warm. I find that if I drop one tooth the motor is much cooler but I lack power all through out the rpm range.
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:33 AM
  #7380  
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For a Monster based stock motor, I usually ran 96/40 with 57mm tires.
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