djgrom

iTrader: (1)

So checking that makes alot of sense if you have a front and rear diff, but would it be the same with the way a TC4 club racer is? I ask because it comes with a front spool and there is no center diff so when I hold the rear wheels to test the slippage wouldn't the front always turn no matter what so that would be self defeating to hold them? The way I tested the my looseness was to hold the rear wheels and attempt to turn the spur and I found I could turn it very very easily with the rear wheels held down, they did not even attempting to move. Since The drive shaft is connected to the spur via a spool as well, and the front is set up with a spool I didn't bother to hold those. I thought if I was holding those I would never be able to move the spur anyways. Does that track or is my logic flawed.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

On a 4wd car, you want to lock down all of the moving parts that you aren't testing if you have 2 diffs in the car.

(correction)

The way you tested should work on a car with a spool, since you locked down the rear wheels that have the diff and moved the spur.

The reason I test the way I do in my previous post is that is it easier to get leverage on a large tire/wheel than to try to move a much smaller spur. Also my pit area is usually a mess, so it is easy to hold the car in my lap than clear a space at my table.

----------

There is one other way I do test my ball diffs before installing them in my car. I will take 2 tools (2 allen drivers) and position one each in the dog bone slot on the diff outdrives. This will effectively lock the diff. While keeping the diff locked, I will grab the diff ring gear (or pulley on a belt drive) and try to move it and see how much it slips. I will adjust it until the diff action is tight when locked, but moves freely in opposite directions. Then I will install it in the car and adjust as needed. I've found that the diff won't feel the same outside of the car and often feels a lot tighter. Once it is installed in the car it usually feels looser if I tested it outside of the car.

djgrom

iTrader: (1)

I think something might be lost in translation here so I just want to double check. With the way the TC4 club racer is designed (which is all you can get from associated now and I got mine 2 years ago) It comes with a front spool which we all agree means that the left and right wheels turn at the same speed as if it was a locked axle AND it also means it is not a one way which allow for the input driveshaft to turn but not drive the wheels. The drive shaft is connected directly to the spur gear also like a spool so if the spur turns the drive shaft HAS to turn which means the front wheels HAVE to turn. I believe I am correct so far. Which if I am not mistaken if I am testing the rear diff slipping I have to allow the front wheels to turn, otherwise if I lock the front wheels I lock the spur. Remember this is all straight out of the box I have not put any upgrade pieces on this car besides the V2 shocks and swaybars. So in my head which isn't always correct I can't try and keep the front wheels from spinning to test the rear diff slipping I have to let them spin otherwise I would never know if the rear diff is slipping. Correct or Incorrect? If needed I can post a video or pictures.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

You want to lock the spur when testing for slippage. If you can rotate a rear wheel while the other one is locked while the spur is also locked, it's slipping.

djgrom

iTrader: (1)

Decided to take the rear of the car apart tonight to see what was going on and have come to the conclusion it may just need a new diff, and this would also allow me to get the steel out drives on there. I am going to use this method when I build it to test it before I put it in the car. It makes the most sense in my head.

IndyRC_Racer

iTrader: (9)

Is is a sign of old age that you have to constantly go back and edit your posts because what you thought you posted is nothing like what you did post? lol

Hopefully I didn't confuse anyone with my posts.

djgrom

iTrader: (1)

Naw they were really helpful. I went back and re-read and realized I missed the entire part where you said my method worked for a front spool car. I am wearing my dunce cap now.

djgrom

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for all the advice everyone.

kenmtb

iTrader: (1)

Hi- I got a TC4 club racer roller and I would like to set it up for drifting. The front diff is solid and the rear is adjustable. For now can I just swap diffs or are they different?

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

They're interchangeable.

kenmtb

iTrader: (1)

Cool the reason I asked was, there seems to be a front and rear ball diff available but they have different part numbers

1spunspur

iTrader: (1)

Ditto

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

What part numbers are they? There are a couple of ball diff options, 1 plastic and 2 types of steel, but neither are specifically for front or rear. Plastic ones are lighter but steel are stronger.

djgrom

iTrader: (1)

If I am not mistaken the only difference between the two since I have been working on the diff in this car with lots of help from you guys is the steel one comes with the steel outdrives and the plastic one has the plastic outdrives. For drifting I would say get the steel and prevent the heavy duty dogbones.

jiml

iTrader: (3)

Dumb question is the club racer still available? I thought it was discontinued when the new RTR was released.