BritRacer

I guess its because the motor will draw all the power you want to provide, high current will induce heat.

Heat will blow the esc.

The cap is like a bucket of water with a trap door on the bottom. It empties all the water <into the motor>, then the esc fills the bucket up with water. This happens many times per second, but the esc gets to rest for some of that second.

I am not that electronic minded (which is embarassing considering my profession)

Is that a fair analogy??

yellow15

Maybe i should say that i have a master and also bachelor degree in electrical and eletronic engineering. So I understand the cap is to smooth out the input voltage a little bit. But with or without the cap, the ESC will draw the same amount of current and the cap we are using on the ESC is so small that just after a friction of the second all the energy stored will be used up anyway. When the "bucket" (cap) got emptied, the battery will supply the voltage/energy to both the motor and the cap so the ESC won't gets to rest.
Anyway this is all the theory stuff i learned from university.

So i don't understand why no cap will blow up the ESC? someone can explain a bit more?

danjoy25

iTrader: (38)

I probably went too far, it might actually just thermal the esc not blow, don't ask me why. Try running it with or without and see if you can finish a heat. Alot of factors like gearing , the way you drive and track temps. I do notice the cap takes some heat away from the esc which I suppose helps it to be more efficient and maybe last longer.

Piyo Piyo

If you don't use cap and schotkies :
1. DO NOT use brake with low turn motors (high current will flow back to your ESC which caused damage.)
2. Never misconnect your battery polarity, or you will buy a new ESC. (Keyence ESC has protection for this)

Other than that, I think it's OK for you not to use cap and schotkies.I
t's better for you to use both of them. Just buy some life insurance for your ESC.

yellow15

i have installed the diode but just it's quite difficult if i want to re-install the cap (unless i put it onto the upper deck)...so that's why i'm thinking of not installing the cap..

Piyo Piyo

Maybe you can post a picture af your car here and guys here will help you the best way to install your cap.

rcnewb2004

Not installing the cap is absolutely ok. I have no engineering degree, but I do have one in physics. Cap only provides small performance advantages during high amperage draw. The schotki diode is a must. There is no bargain there.

So go ahead and do it IMO. Unless there is something else in this particular speedo different from others, there is no problem with it. I have ran 3 speedos without caps, and no problems.

But your best bet is to ask KO Staff. Afterall, his name explains it all.

rcnewb2004

KO PROPO Staff:

Take a look at this link:
http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...120&cat_id=157

I am just curious, you told me in a previous thread that the hara 2.1 has a higher thermo cuttoff?

But this page says specifically that there is NO thermo cuttoff??

Do you think you can confirm that for me??

Thank you.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I just checked that link... it says that about the Pro and the ProComp too and I know that's wrong -JB

jc510

iTrader: (7)

My Ultra diode Cracked along the post. Is it still good to use? It cracked really easy.

Also, I run stock or 19t. Do I even need one?

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

I have a couple of them that have done that but they work just fine... no worries mahn I would put one on. I use them on my stock motors and if I'm correct, I believe they are there to reduce motor noise/interference...

speed6

Which is the best for stock racing the 2.1 or 2 and is the 2.1 available cause my lhs said that it still not ready for shipment.

Thanks

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Either one would be great. It's just that the 2.1 has a higher thermal cut-off. You shouldn't have a problem in stock with thermal overload, you'll toast your armature first ...

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

your LHS is wrong...it's been out and I have a couple.

Tower has them in stock for $150.00 and till end of the month there is $25.00 discount for orders over $149
and at $125.00 for the Hara 2.1 is a bargain.

Bluey_74

iTrader: (5)

A question regarding programming the VSF series. Ive had a Hara 2.1 for a little bit now, but im having trouble finding a program which even gets me close to the inbuilt set up of my Nosram Dominator evo.
Does anyone kow for sure what he drive freqs are on the Stock motor setting on the nosram is?
ive tried a program like 5554443332212345.......current limiter off, throttle pnch 0, but i am still alo faster with the Nosram.

Hebiki: the suggestions you gave helped alot, but im stil 1sec/lap off thr pace Vs' my Dom. Evo.
Anyother help would be greatly appreciated!