16LikesSerpent S411
10-09-2015, 08:06 AM
#6796
Good luck and have fun.
10-09-2015, 09:21 AM
#6797
Wow. After almost two weeks my roller is finally finished. Completed my 2.0 build last night. It's scary soldering connections after almost a decade lol. Couldn't have done it without this forum (and petit lol). Thanks for all the help and tips guys. All i have left is to paint the body tonight and I'll be hitting the track for the first time in almost ten years. So much has changed but still remained the same. I'll post a pic once the body is complete.
10-13-2015, 09:34 AM
#6799
Setting my servo EPAs and i realize why my right turns are so much tighter than those to the left... The bellcrank hits the plastic battery holder. I tried to take off the 2mm spacers that the lipo holders sit on but it made getting battery tape through the chassis too tedious, so i guess i'm ditching the holders all together and going with a combination of strapping tape and double sided tape for lipo security... Anyone else able to sort this out using the factory lipo holders?
I ask because i like the idea of a little lipo protection from the carbon fiber holders in the event of a T-BONE....
I ask because i like the idea of a little lipo protection from the carbon fiber holders in the event of a T-BONE....
10-13-2015, 10:02 AM
#6800
Setting my servo EPAs and i realize why my right turns are so much tighter than those to the left... The bellcrank hits the plastic battery holder. I tried to take off the 2mm spacers that the lipo holders sit on but it made getting battery tape through the chassis too tedious, so i guess i'm ditching the holders all together and going with a combination of strapping tape and double sided tape for lipo security... Anyone else able to sort this out using the factory lipo holders?
I ask because i like the idea of a little lipo protection from the carbon fiber holders in the event of a T-BONE....
I ask because i like the idea of a little lipo protection from the carbon fiber holders in the event of a T-BONE....
Just to give you a idea of how much you can trim, I have had them trimmed to the point of just being beside the screw hole threads, very close.
10-13-2015, 11:39 AM
#6801
Swing your bellcrank all the way over and determine the angle that it hits the tape holder at. Then carefully cut some of the plastic tape holder at that angle to give you more clearance. Don't go too far on the trimming so it weakens the molded part of the holder or it will break the tape portion on a heavy hit (guilty). They have new tape holders made of aliminum, but I don't know if they can be used with the hockey stick holders.
Just to give you a idea of how much you can trim, I have had them trimmed to the point of just being beside the screw hole threads, very close.
Just to give you a idea of how much you can trim, I have had them trimmed to the point of just being beside the screw hole threads, very close.
10-14-2015, 04:24 AM
#6804
The avid chassis for serpent doesn't use the hockey sticks. I have raced with my avid chassis two club race days in 17.5 now and haven't had any problems with the battery moving.
10-14-2015, 11:40 AM
#6805
10-15-2015, 03:19 AM
#6806
I have run the stock holders since day 1 without an issue, but of course did trim the plastic bits. I just picked up the Avid chassis last week and ran it over the weekend. No holders and while the battery didn't move, it does bother me a bit. Just not sure I want to go drilling a brand new (and pretty) chassis. For the last 2 years I have used a 2"wide by 3/4" long piece of carpet tape to hold in the battery (replaced every 5-8 packs). Then used the velcro strap loose (so as to not cause tweak) just to prevent a hard hit causing a battery ejection. Held up fine including outdoor asphalt, going down the back straight between 55-65mph and having a tire band break (gotta love those early Hot Race tires) and cartwheeling another 40 feet into a wooden wall.
10-18-2015, 10:59 PM
#6808
I just changed a pinion today and the only way I can imagine not having top remove the top deck is to have a pinion small enough to fit underneath.
On another note. I just took my 2.0 out on its maiden track voyage. The default asphalt setup was way loose in the rear. The back end wanted to step out at turn in, mid corner, and exit. I increased front droop, moved the upper front shock mount out, swapped from gray to green springs up front, increased front shock oil from 450wt to 500wt, dialed front toe from -1.0 to 0, and laid the rear shocks down. Switched to long camber links too. Setup is now much better on the slippery surface. Have to work on my throttle control though as I'm sure my on-off throttle control is the culprit and I'm band-aiding my defect with suspension changes...
On another note. I just took my 2.0 out on its maiden track voyage. The default asphalt setup was way loose in the rear. The back end wanted to step out at turn in, mid corner, and exit. I increased front droop, moved the upper front shock mount out, swapped from gray to green springs up front, increased front shock oil from 450wt to 500wt, dialed front toe from -1.0 to 0, and laid the rear shocks down. Switched to long camber links too. Setup is now much better on the slippery surface. Have to work on my throttle control though as I'm sure my on-off throttle control is the culprit and I'm band-aiding my defect with suspension changes...
10-20-2015, 12:54 PM
#6809
There is a small hole in the bottom of the chassis which lines up with the pinion set screw.
10-20-2015, 04:43 PM
#6810
Close, but no cigar. The hole immediately beneath the pinion lines up with the toothed part very nicely, but there's no room to weasel a driver past that. The slot under the spur seems like an option. It's a bit fiddly, but way better than pulling the top deck. Thanks!