antivert

The blade spool is really for outdoors or tracks with no boards. If you tend to hit things you should be using
http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...&cat=93&page=4 and http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...&cat=93&page=5

Bingo883

iTrader: (1)

As mentioned above, this new style is easy to get damage as well.
But since the old drive axle cup (SER401408) is out of stock, whatelse could be a direct replacement? What is the v3 running in theirs? Will those fit?

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

The 3.0 comes with the new alu axle and blades. Everybody in the team here in UK run the newer version. Also everyone was running the new version at TITC back in February including Wilck.

I've had some pretty hefty hits and haven't broken it yet and that's in modified!! I just change the blades regularly - certainly check them after even run which takes 5 minutes. The blade will crack along where the drive shaft pin sits once it cracks change it.

CladdingMan

Hey guys,

So, purchased a S411, then read reviews of it. It seems quite a few guys are having trouble with the rear end having traction?

I ran it tonight to a C-main 2nd (2.013s behind a guy who usually sits top 4 in A's I may add) in my first TC race back in God knows how long..

So couple questions,

Rear sway bar or no? What's it going to do for me on a bumpy track? The car is glued but I want to get it running with the top dogs because I know I've got the A-main pace, but I want to get there with the set up. Motor is running off at 155 so I can't play a whole lot with gearing, it's absolutely glued to the carpet so I do not want to touch it too much and pooch it. My buddy has a T4 and having loads of issues with set up...

Any help is appreciated. Been racing 12th and scooped the 411 up a couple weeks ago.

Running a Gens ace 5000 50c, Hobbywing justock and trinity D3 if that makes a difference. With a 53-96 turning it to a 3.6 FDR.

Would better electronics push it a little quicker?

Colin

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

We need more info. Track surface and size, grip level. Your electrics are old but till your hitting your lines for a consistent 6 minutes you'll be fine. The speedy will lack some brakes so get yourself a 4 cap board from speed passion etc. I would Crank the timing on the can full boar. As for set up in general You have to loosen the car up a bit to extract that extra pace. Being stuck is slow. Loose is fast. Look up some set ups on petitrc for the version chassis you have. There have been lots of good set ups posted here for carpet by cwoods. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ntS4113.0.html

gearhead_22

iTrader: (10)

+1 I check my blades after every run because if one goes it will tear up the aluminum housing quick.

CladdingMan

Track surface is bumpy low bite carpet, thought I typed it in there but I didn't. Oops.

I am an extremely consistent driver. Usually have some of the best average laps in my heats etc. a little wall brush here ms there but, not a corner smoker.

I have the car on rails, as a loose rear end I was running 13.5-14.0, I backed the rear spring retainers off by 1/4 turn and the car was easier to drive, on the trottle later and earlier, dropped myself down to 12.8-13.2 was the average pace.. I gave it to a couple of the stupidly fast guys and they said it's an amazing car to drive, it's a tiny bit loose but not loose enough for me to notice a lot. Sharp corners the rear will kick out the slightest but it makes it easier to corner

I think track size is maybe 60-70x40'.... But like I said. The motor is coming off at a perfect temperature and the local "fast" guys are saying because they're older/ super cheap (esc) electronics it may make a difference to upgrade.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I'd un-connect one side of the swaybar and give it a try. Thing about sway bars and bumpy tracks is, since it ties both sides of the car together if you have one tire bouncing like crazy because of a rough track, the bar will dictate some of that to the other wheel, so it would make the car unstable.

If your trying to get more rear traction, you could remove upper inner link spacers or raise the upper outer spacers. Also consider taking out some of the rear screws in the top deck, the idler screws to start with and then possibly two of the bulkhead screws. You could also remove lower idler mount screws. There are also other options in motor mounts, but not sure which one you have currently.

The D3 isn't one of the better TC motors, there are other better options out there in the motor choice.

CladdingMan

I currently don't have the sway bar in the rear. The front I do have it in.

What about an express motorsports tuned D3? I know a few guys running them here and they absolutely destroy, then there's the Orca's.... Those are ridiculously fast.

invrtd

iTrader: (29)

For sale: Track closed by my house.


http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post13945683

The FastFred

So I wanted to try a narrow front.
Only had spacers to add 1mm track width. Is their anyone that makes front hexs more narrow.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Xray make a .75 hex, it may require some slight modification but they will work, i have used them before, as well as the wider hex drives too.

Stealth_RT

iTrader: (5)

The rear wheel hexes from the SRX2 offroad buggy work good on the S411 as well. There are -0.75mm, stock, +0.75mm, and +1.00mm hexes available. They'll fit the odd Serpent TC axles without problems. Xray hexes you may have to drill the 6mm hole all the way through to get the drive pins to seat in the slot.

marshallsbbq

iTrader: (41)

Serpent S411 2.0 Roller For sale. Asking $150 shipped. PM me for pics.

bblum

iTrader: (1)

I have a serpent s411 eryx 3.0 brand new in box for sale with the following brand new parts: aluminum uprights, carbon chassis, two bodies, battery straps, wheels and tires, spur gear. Everything is new in packages! Looking for $500 plus shipping

message me for pics!