David_E

401512 is 2.7mm shorter on the underside.


If you use the original 401400, you can turn it around and use 4.5mm shims.
But the best way is to buy a set of 401512 and just replace the original part. Then you won't need shims or turn anything around.

But: In both cases you will have to replace one of the stop-nuts from the servoholder with a standard nut and cut a little bit from the battery holder so that the parallel steering arms can move completely from one side to the other.

Holmenkollen

How do you measure droop? Is it possible to get the values from top of the wheel axle to the pit table instead? With a caliper you get something like 2x.x mm.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Hey David,

Great result on the weekend, good to see both yourself and Jan make your respective A-finals.

Could you give some thoughts on your setup sheet? I've had a look at it, and there are a few things that suprised me.
Things I found interesting were the 2° Castor, 2mm rear wheelbase, Serpent Springs, and the wider (0.5/3.5) rear blocks. Can't argue that it worked though
Is it based on your standard carpet starting setup, or more a specific one for that track?

Thanks in advance
Ed

Akhor

iTrader: (8)

Thanks!

Timbo99

iTrader: (14)

Thanks TryHard,I've got it all in and ready,and yes it's bloody tight!
I'm running the car at TFTR in Melb,and depending on what track we use for racing it's all fairly open but the infield on them all is a good mix.
I'm taking the spool anyway and will try a gear diff both ends.
Thank you for a quick reply,
Tim

whityboy

iTrader: (1)

There was massive grip and this was the cure for griproll he told me. and it worked fine. thanks david

Cestaric

Guys,
what parts I need to change the fixation point of the Rear Sway Bar ?

Part Numbers are possible ?

Thanks
CC

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Makes sense. I watched some of the vids last night, no one seemed to be driving hard, in a manner of speaking, as it looked like every car was on the edge of tipping over.... I'm sure Yannic was cornering on two wheels everywhere!

Gergely

Hello,

If you also use the original parts then you need:
2 pcs. of 3x6 grubscrew
2 pcs. of 3x8 grubscrew
1 bag of 411253 Pivot ball 4.5mm
1 bag of 411207 Ball joint short 4.5mm

If you want to have a separate linkage then you will also need:
+1 bag of 411207 Ball joint short 4.5mm
+1 bag of 401391 Anti roll bar ball

If you want to adjust the length nicely then you can buy 401155 or 803200.

Hope this helps.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I'm glad to report that I have torture tested the nylon spool running a 17.5 in blinky and have had no issues, seems like a nice solid piece. The only thing I did before running it was loaded up the inner drives with black grease. After a night of testing it still seems tight and shows no wear.

I also tried the 4.5 spacers under the steering rack and really didn't notice much of a difference. This was the only thing I changed on the setup of the car, and for my test track I honestly didn't like the feel, may have to try it again just to confirm, but overall it was .03 seconds a lap slower, but just didn't feel as good as the stock setting for me anyways.

I also did some more shock testing and I'm not sure why but I get the best feel on the car using the RCXX shocks with 6 of the 1.1mm holes in the piston. BUT the bigger change on the car was going to the inner lower arm hole to avoid the wheel rub, doing this I also changed the upper location in one more hole. The other change I've done with the car is just making the overall width front and rear wider, in the front running 2.0 blocks front and rear with a 1mm hex spacer and the rear using the .5mm hex spacer. I see David went wider using a 0.5/3.5 combo in the rear, but I don't have a .5. But the overall feel of the car feels a lot more stable. (Test track med/tight ozite, 17.5 blinky)

Also wondering if anyone else is having trouble getting to the Serpentamerica web site, I keep routing to the main SerpentEU site.

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

It might be back up tomorrow. If not Monday.

cwoods34

iTrader: (10)

I have been running the inner lower arm mount also, but only on the rear. I nearly always run the rear shock at the #4 hole, but I like it at #3 when using the inner arm mount.... this seems to help with on-throttle grip, but I am used to running a very tiny wing.... it gets a little sketchy at high speeds, like a sweeper. This weekend I plan to run a "full wing" and widen the car a bit.

On the two "local" tracks that are very low bite, I run the car very narrow with really soft springs and a front gear diff.... this smooths the car out so I don't drive too aggressively. With a few high-bite races coming up I can "stiffen" the car up a bit to match my aggressive driving style.

I have also put about 8-10 packs on the nylon spool....... the axles still fit snugly in the outdrive, and there is no warping. The aluminum sleeves are nice! I'm not gentle with the brakes either

chicky03

iTrader: (1)

In case anyone was having trouble getting to the Serpent America website it is back up and running!

www.serpentamerica.com

CNTRFLD

iTrader: (41)

Hi guys! Sorry I started reading into this long thread and I got lost lol. I figured I would go ahead and just ask away...

Can someone please tell me the differences between the TE and the LE? I'm thinking about going all Serpent so, i'll need to pick up a new TC for this year. Isn't the TE a newer version correct? I know they only made 300 LE kits... anyone?

Thanks again guys.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

PM returned about the two cars and their differences. I covered the basics but if someone else remembers the rest maybe someone else will chime in.

It is a high quality kit for sure and if you get one, you will see why. There is also lots of good help on this thread too.

Steve