Team Corally RDX Touring Car
#5731
i noticed that most set-ups have bias in either the shock oil or spring from front to rear, usually the rear being softer... do you think the RDX always has bias since it requires little weight to compress the rear, becuase of the geometry? (shocks in front of the arms) just like in off-road wherein the shocks are in front of the rear arms to provide more rear traction?
#5733
Tech Elite
iTrader: (27)
Originally Posted by stiltskin
I heard a rumor (from two seperate and completely unrelated people) that Jeff Cuffs has returned to Corally. Anyone want to confirm?
according to several people, plus he has changed his signature and avatar on here, i think that should confirm it.....
#5734
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
car shocks
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Do what you feel is right. All I know is the way I have it put my car in the A at the Novak race so I must be doing something right. Just trying to pass on the knowledge...
#5735
Originally Posted by stiltskin
I heard a rumor (from two seperate and completely unrelated people) that Jeff Cuffs has returned to Corally. Anyone want to confirm?
#5736
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
God I hope not. He already jumped ship once, who's to stop him from doing it again. Besides that, I never did think he represented Corally very well off the track
#5737
Guys,
How do the tamiya pistons compare to the std. corally ones ?? Samller or larger holes ?? if a set-up called for tamiya 3 pistons and 50wt oil,any idea what oil i should go with if using the corally pistons ??
Thanks i'm guessing the tamiya pistons would cause less pack but thought i'd confirm
How do the tamiya pistons compare to the std. corally ones ?? Samller or larger holes ?? if a set-up called for tamiya 3 pistons and 50wt oil,any idea what oil i should go with if using the corally pistons ??
Thanks i'm guessing the tamiya pistons would cause less pack but thought i'd confirm
#5738
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
My post wasn't suppsed to sound short in any way, sorry if it did. If you know anything about vehicle dynamics and physics it's easy to understand that less wheel travel will yield more tangential (forward) speed around a corner than one that is turned more. Yes the RDX has those other holes in the arms for tuning purposes, but a shock with more leverage on the arm generally results in better/more consistent handling as less shock travel is required for a given suspension compression distance. Generally the springs and shock oils that are run on this car rarely change track to track, or race to race. It's the small, more advanced tuning options (such as ackerman, roll center, bump steer) that makes the difference from a car being 90% to 98%.
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
#5739
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
... Generally the springs and shock oils that are run on this car rarely change track to track, or race to race. It's the small, more advanced tuning options (such as ackerman, roll center, bump steer) that makes the difference from a car being 90% to 98%.
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
#5740
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
#5741
Tech Champion
iTrader: (103)
Originally Posted by kabttu
As far as the lowered shock tower goes, maybe I'm doing something wrong or something, but when I installed it, my ride height would not go below 5mm even with the shock collars all the way up against the top of the shock, I switched back to the other shock tower and everything is fine. I'm really at a loss as to what I'm doing wrong.
#5742
[QUOTE=kabttu]As far as the lowered shock tower goes, maybe I'm doing something wrong or something, but when I installed it, my ride height would not go below 5mm even with the shock collars all the way up against the top of the shock, I switched back to the other shock tower and everything is fine. I'm really at a loss as to what I'm doing wrong.[/QUOTE
I've had a few people tell me that when they went to the lower tower, that they solved the ride height issue by using the Associated shock spring bottoms. It should be a enexpensive fix, or at least to try.
I've had a few people tell me that when they went to the lower tower, that they solved the ride height issue by using the Associated shock spring bottoms. It should be a enexpensive fix, or at least to try.
#5743
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
u
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
My post wasn't suppsed to sound short in any way, sorry if it did. If you know anything about vehicle dynamics and physics it's easy to understand that less wheel travel will yield more tangential (forward) speed around a corner than one that is turned more. Yes the RDX has those other holes in the arms for tuning purposes, but a shock with more leverage on the arm generally results in better/more consistent handling as less shock travel is required for a given suspension compression distance. Generally the springs and shock oils that are run on this car rarely change track to track, or race to race. It's the small, more advanced tuning options (such as ackerman, roll center, bump steer) that makes the difference from a car being 90% to 98%.
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
#5744
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Stiltskin,
Here's something I've noticed over the past two years: If you have a good setup, the only thing you'll have to change on your car usually is tires (size, sidewall gluing). I usually run mine 56.5-57 mm and unglued during club racing, and at 55.5 mm with glued sidewalls for big races. Sometimes, for certain conditions or the track layout, you may have to make a small change to such small things as camber or front toe. Another case is when your car seems to be grabby/lifty when the grip is REALLY high, less caster usually takes some of that away. The Novak race was the first big race we (the team) ran the new lowered tower at, and everyone that tried it in the upper holes agreed that it was better than drilled tower for the reasons I stated in my previous post. The setup I ran at that race is 95% the same as the setup I've been running since this time last year.
Here's something I've noticed over the past two years: If you have a good setup, the only thing you'll have to change on your car usually is tires (size, sidewall gluing). I usually run mine 56.5-57 mm and unglued during club racing, and at 55.5 mm with glued sidewalls for big races. Sometimes, for certain conditions or the track layout, you may have to make a small change to such small things as camber or front toe. Another case is when your car seems to be grabby/lifty when the grip is REALLY high, less caster usually takes some of that away. The Novak race was the first big race we (the team) ran the new lowered tower at, and everyone that tried it in the upper holes agreed that it was better than drilled tower for the reasons I stated in my previous post. The setup I ran at that race is 95% the same as the setup I've been running since this time last year.
#5745
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by Customworksking
Thanks for clearing that up and thank You for taking the time to answer everyone...I will not give up on my car/RDX ever I'm at the point where it will only get better and has been. I have a big race Feb 26th 19T Foam and I know the traction will be way more than where I run now and I'm sure what I have learned for my low bite track will apply .......
Addition to previous post: When the grip is real high I also only sauce half the front tire instead of all the way out to the orange like I do for club racing.