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Old 02-09-2006, 03:56 AM   #5731
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i noticed that most set-ups have bias in either the shock oil or spring from front to rear, usually the rear being softer... do you think the RDX always has bias since it requires little weight to compress the rear, becuase of the geometry? (shocks in front of the arms) just like in off-road wherein the shocks are in front of the rear arms to provide more rear traction?
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Old 02-09-2006, 07:45 AM   #5732
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I heard a rumor (from two seperate and completely unrelated people) that Jeff Cuffs has returned to Corally. Anyone want to confirm?
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Old 02-09-2006, 08:18 AM   #5733
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Originally Posted by stiltskin
I heard a rumor (from two seperate and completely unrelated people) that Jeff Cuffs has returned to Corally. Anyone want to confirm?

according to several people, plus he has changed his signature and avatar on here, i think that should confirm it.....
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Old 02-09-2006, 09:13 AM   #5734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
Do what you feel is right. All I know is the way I have it put my car in the A at the Novak race so I must be doing something right. Just trying to pass on the knowledge...
I've been working with my rdx for weeks now and I found in Med/low bite tight small 36/70" Track thst mo matter what U need the extra throw running Jaco foams last night I worked on the rearend of my car to free it up had to go to 1 deg of toe to get the car to turn/rotate to say your car is set-up wrong well Im not sure how to take that,I feel I know a bit but not all and I still cant get the car to exit the way I want but it is getting better....I race with Andrew Ellis a few weeks ago and his car had Way more Throw /dual rate than mine say 20 to 30 % more but yet his car was a lap faster than the field True he is a Pro and running a T2 that aside without moving the shocks in a hole on the arms could I get the same amount of throw.......still working no it
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Old 02-09-2006, 09:33 AM   #5735
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Originally Posted by stiltskin
I heard a rumor (from two seperate and completely unrelated people) that Jeff Cuffs has returned to Corally. Anyone want to confirm?
God I hope not. He already jumped ship once, who's to stop him from doing it again. Besides that, I never did think he represented Corally very well off the track
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Old 02-09-2006, 10:56 AM   #5736
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Originally Posted by MUDVAYNE
God I hope not. He already jumped ship once, who's to stop him from doing it again. Besides that, I never did think he represented Corally very well off the track
I spoke with him at one race, after he had gone to Xray. He had nothing but good things to say about Corally. If he's back, "Welcome Back Jeff".
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Old 02-09-2006, 11:16 AM   #5737
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Guys,

How do the tamiya pistons compare to the std. corally ones ?? Samller or larger holes ?? if a set-up called for tamiya 3 pistons and 50wt oil,any idea what oil i should go with if using the corally pistons ??

Thanks i'm guessing the tamiya pistons would cause less pack but thought i'd confirm
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Old 02-09-2006, 11:29 AM   #5738
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My post wasn't suppsed to sound short in any way, sorry if it did. If you know anything about vehicle dynamics and physics it's easy to understand that less wheel travel will yield more tangential (forward) speed around a corner than one that is turned more. Yes the RDX has those other holes in the arms for tuning purposes, but a shock with more leverage on the arm generally results in better/more consistent handling as less shock travel is required for a given suspension compression distance. Generally the springs and shock oils that are run on this car rarely change track to track, or race to race. It's the small, more advanced tuning options (such as ackerman, roll center, bump steer) that makes the difference from a car being 90% to 98%.

The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool

As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
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Old 02-09-2006, 12:10 PM   #5739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
... Generally the springs and shock oils that are run on this car rarely change track to track, or race to race. It's the small, more advanced tuning options (such as ackerman, roll center, bump steer) that makes the difference from a car being 90% to 98%.

The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool

As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
First off, what changes do YOU make as traction comes up? Second, what difference does the lowered shock tower make over the standard tower (no modifications) and third, Jeff definitely IS fast.
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Old 02-09-2006, 12:28 PM   #5740
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool
As far as the lowered shock tower goes, maybe I'm doing something wrong or something, but when I installed it, my ride height would not go below 5mm even with the shock collars all the way up against the top of the shock, I switched back to the other shock tower and everything is fine. I'm really at a loss as to what I'm doing wrong.
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Old 02-09-2006, 12:36 PM   #5741
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Originally Posted by kabttu
As far as the lowered shock tower goes, maybe I'm doing something wrong or something, but when I installed it, my ride height would not go below 5mm even with the shock collars all the way up against the top of the shock, I switched back to the other shock tower and everything is fine. I'm really at a loss as to what I'm doing wrong.
I believe that the guys who are running the lower tower are also cutting off the bottom half of the threads on the shock shaft and shaving down the ball end also.
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Old 02-09-2006, 12:53 PM   #5742
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[QUOTE=kabttu]As far as the lowered shock tower goes, maybe I'm doing something wrong or something, but when I installed it, my ride height would not go below 5mm even with the shock collars all the way up against the top of the shock, I switched back to the other shock tower and everything is fine. I'm really at a loss as to what I'm doing wrong.[/QUOTE

I've had a few people tell me that when they went to the lower tower, that they solved the ride height issue by using the Associated shock spring bottoms. It should be a enexpensive fix, or at least to try.
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Old 02-09-2006, 04:19 PM   #5743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian McGreevy
My post wasn't suppsed to sound short in any way, sorry if it did. If you know anything about vehicle dynamics and physics it's easy to understand that less wheel travel will yield more tangential (forward) speed around a corner than one that is turned more. Yes the RDX has those other holes in the arms for tuning purposes, but a shock with more leverage on the arm generally results in better/more consistent handling as less shock travel is required for a given suspension compression distance. Generally the springs and shock oils that are run on this car rarely change track to track, or race to race. It's the small, more advanced tuning options (such as ackerman, roll center, bump steer) that makes the difference from a car being 90% to 98%.

The biggest change I've felt on this car in a long time was with the new lowered front shock tower. The upper holes for the camber link raise the inner pivot and create a lower roll center. This allows the car to initiate smoother and also carry more speed and have more steering through the middle and exit of the corner. I could bring out all the technical stuff but I'll spare ya :cool

As for Jeff, he's back and just as fast as ever
Thanks for clearing that up and thank You for taking the time to answer everyone...I will not give up on my car/RDX ever I'm at the point where it will only get better and has been. I have a big race Feb 26th 19T Foam and I know the traction will be way more than where I run now and I'm sure what I have learned for my low bite track will apply .......
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Old 02-09-2006, 04:57 PM   #5744
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Stiltskin,

Here's something I've noticed over the past two years: If you have a good setup, the only thing you'll have to change on your car usually is tires (size, sidewall gluing). I usually run mine 56.5-57 mm and unglued during club racing, and at 55.5 mm with glued sidewalls for big races. Sometimes, for certain conditions or the track layout, you may have to make a small change to such small things as camber or front toe. Another case is when your car seems to be grabby/lifty when the grip is REALLY high, less caster usually takes some of that away. The Novak race was the first big race we (the team) ran the new lowered tower at, and everyone that tried it in the upper holes agreed that it was better than drilled tower for the reasons I stated in my previous post. The setup I ran at that race is 95% the same as the setup I've been running since this time last year.
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Old 02-09-2006, 04:59 PM   #5745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customworksking
Thanks for clearing that up and thank You for taking the time to answer everyone...I will not give up on my car/RDX ever I'm at the point where it will only get better and has been. I have a big race Feb 26th 19T Foam and I know the traction will be way more than where I run now and I'm sure what I have learned for my low bite track will apply .......
One thing you'll notice right away when the grip comes up is that your car has A LOT more steering everywhere. You'll then be able to take your dual rate back down to get the car faster and easier to drive.

Addition to previous post: When the grip is real high I also only sauce half the front tire instead of all the way out to the orange like I do for club racing.
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