Team Corally RDX Touring Car
07-27-2005, 08:45 PM
#2867
Originally Posted by rayhuang
Mcgreevy-I need some parts to run the RDX Saturday-can you hook a brotha-up? I need a shock bladder and 0-rings.
Jeff
07-27-2005, 09:00 PM
#2869
Well I have only had one time my car was tweaked bad enough I couldn't just loosen up the screws top and bottom and let it sit.... I just did the old X-ray Twist to it.... That fixed it.
Just hold both ends and SLIGHTLY twist the car in the opposite direction of the tweak.
Just hold both ends and SLIGHTLY twist the car in the opposite direction of the tweak.
07-27-2005, 09:56 PM
#2870
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey guys, just looking for info here: With the 6 bulkhead pieces (1 of 'em being the brace that sit on the top rear and the other is the tube in the front), layshaft and the top deck- how do you guys go about taking out chassis tweak? -JB
-JB
07-27-2005, 10:57 PM
#2872
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by RDX_Charade
Not always according to this weekend (30-31 juli) during the European Championships in Glostrup, Denmark. Corally Team drivers are using 2.4mm and 2.0mm chassis on that tarmac track. It also seems to be a wet weekend, so it will be recommended.
So only for carpet a chassis as stiff as possible is recommended and using foam tires. In Europe you don't see those thick chassis' with rubber tires. Foam tires aren't used much over here in Europe. For racing om carpet with a touring car mostly hand-out rubber tires are used during races. Like Sorex/Orion or CS-27.
So only for carpet a chassis as stiff as possible is recommended and using foam tires. In Europe you don't see those thick chassis' with rubber tires. Foam tires aren't used much over here in Europe. For racing om carpet with a touring car mostly hand-out rubber tires are used during races. Like Sorex/Orion or CS-27.
rain or shine a thicker chassis will always make more traction...i will never ever understand why everybody thinks flex will make more traction...ask your self this the shocks do all the work , keeping the chassis as flat as possible will let the shocks do ther job ....flexing will let tires come off the ground and we all no what happens then ...no traction ....you decide ..what will hold the chassis flatter to the ground , no flex , no spinning out ..my .02
07-27-2005, 11:22 PM
#2873
Originally Posted by dawgmeat
are you using the ultra low block if you are whats the part#, thanks.
-Korey
07-27-2005, 11:27 PM
#2874
Tech Adept
think of it this way, applying to asphalt mainly, when you have a chassis that flexes it helps absorbs the bumps. If you set your suspension up to absorb most of the bumps, your suspension isn't setup for max. corner speed, its gonna dump over too easily. So if you have your chassis flex more on asphalt it helps absorbs bumps better letting you stiffen your suspension to carry more corner speed.
As with carpet, most tracks are glass smooth so you can make the chassis stiff as possible to let all the suspension do the work so the car is more predictable, and predictable makes the car more consistant, and a consistant car leads to consistant lap times.
As with carpet, most tracks are glass smooth so you can make the chassis stiff as possible to let all the suspension do the work so the car is more predictable, and predictable makes the car more consistant, and a consistant car leads to consistant lap times.
07-27-2005, 11:52 PM
#2875
I agree with that. In my opinion a stiff chassis is better. Your car feels more consistant. Before running my C4.1 (ran a C4.1 and an Assasssin before my RDX). I had a TC-3. That thing was also very stiff, but it run very good and easy.
I still ride the stock RDX chassis, which I think is very good. I can't also understand those weak chassis'. Like now it drives very easy. With a flexing chassis, your car can't be efficient anymore, I think.
I still ride the stock RDX chassis, which I think is very good. I can't also understand those weak chassis'. Like now it drives very easy. With a flexing chassis, your car can't be efficient anymore, I think.
07-28-2005, 12:09 AM
#2876
Tech Addict
Originally Posted by Dhartman03
think of it this way, applying to asphalt mainly, when you have a chassis that flexes it helps absorbs the bumps. If you set your suspension up to absorb most of the bumps, your suspension isn't setup for max. corner speed, its gonna dump over too easily. So if you have your chassis flex more on asphalt it helps absorbs bumps better letting you stiffen your suspension to carry more corner speed.
As with carpet, most tracks are glass smooth so you can make the chassis stiff as possible to let all the suspension do the work so the car is more predictable, and predictable makes the car more consistant, and a consistant car leads to consistant lap times.
As with carpet, most tracks are glass smooth so you can make the chassis stiff as possible to let all the suspension do the work so the car is more predictable, and predictable makes the car more consistant, and a consistant car leads to consistant lap times.
i dont agree..one the shocks do all the work , when is it that the chassis has to flex to absorb the bumps in the racing surface..i run the carpet 3.9 chassis every were , so cal raceway is banked all around the oval and has tone of traction and is bumpy too..i ran the RROC that track is smooth same everything , i run in parking lots were the surface is not ideal but my car feels the same...tires are the answer to everything.. you have the right kicks the car is dialed..four different surfaces same exact setup you pick the right tire your dialed...do you think that formula one uses a thinner chassis when it rains ...no they just change tires cause they no what works ..we as r/c racers dont take real racing serious enough its all what you see in the inter net...im living proof that a thicker chassis will ALWAYS be more consistant all across the board...i was at so cal on a practice day and ran my car about three times in a hour period from the first pack to the last my laps times were 9.66 it did this 15 times in a row i could not beleive it , it still have the sheet...so who wants to battle with me on this its all true......i still dont get it.....seeing is believing... driving is the easy part...
07-28-2005, 04:32 AM
#2877
Tech Fanatic
Originally Posted by JayBee
Hey guys, just looking for info here: With the 6 bulkhead pieces (1 of 'em being the brace that sit on the top rear and the other is the tube in the front), layshaft and the top deck- how do you guys go about taking out chassis tweak? -JB
07-28-2005, 07:45 AM
#2878
Chassis Flex
Ok, first off stock and 19T are not really going fast enough to transfer enough load onto the suspension to really notice a drastic change from thick to thin.
Socal has High Bite so I would use at least a standard chassis there. RROC never really gets hot and the traction is always really good.
Flex helps when in high track temps such as 130 or higher mainly. The tires only have so much mechanical grip and usually you are running on Handout tires so you can't go to like CS36 tires or something to help out.
There are reasons that Corally...... Xray........ HPI........ Tamiya all have thinner chassis available. Hara uses a 2.0mm chassis and topdeck and he seems to do pretty good.
Its more of a personal preference thing I guess.
Jeff
Ok, first off stock and 19T are not really going fast enough to transfer enough load onto the suspension to really notice a drastic change from thick to thin.
Socal has High Bite so I would use at least a standard chassis there. RROC never really gets hot and the traction is always really good.
Flex helps when in high track temps such as 130 or higher mainly. The tires only have so much mechanical grip and usually you are running on Handout tires so you can't go to like CS36 tires or something to help out.
There are reasons that Corally...... Xray........ HPI........ Tamiya all have thinner chassis available. Hara uses a 2.0mm chassis and topdeck and he seems to do pretty good.
Its more of a personal preference thing I guess.
Jeff
07-28-2005, 08:22 AM
#2879
I can tell you guys this.....
A few weeks ago all I did was put the 2.4 chassis on my car same set-up same tire and pretty close to same temps from the week before. The car felt GREAT. But I struggled all day with lap time on the clock. The car was consistantly 6 secs. slower in five mins. than the week before. Everyone elses times were the same or better. Nothing I did changed the times on paper. But the car drove so well.
I changed chassis back to stk. and the times came right back to what I had been running with the car before the chassis swap. This is on a track that is untreated and has pretty decent grip. I was running stk.
A few weeks ago all I did was put the 2.4 chassis on my car same set-up same tire and pretty close to same temps from the week before. The car felt GREAT. But I struggled all day with lap time on the clock. The car was consistantly 6 secs. slower in five mins. than the week before. Everyone elses times were the same or better. Nothing I did changed the times on paper. But the car drove so well.
I changed chassis back to stk. and the times came right back to what I had been running with the car before the chassis swap. This is on a track that is untreated and has pretty decent grip. I was running stk.
07-28-2005, 08:38 AM
#2880
Originally Posted by imprsme
I can tell you guys this.....
A few weeks ago all I did was put the 2.4 chassis on my car same set-up same tire and pretty close to same temps from the week before. The car felt GREAT. But I struggled all day with lap time on the clock. The car was consistantly 6 secs. slower in five mins. than the week before. Everyone elses times were the same or better. Nothing I did changed the times on paper. But the car drove so well.
I changed chassis back to stk. and the times came right back to what I had been running with the car before the chassis swap. This is on a track that is untreated and has pretty decent grip. I was running stk.
A few weeks ago all I did was put the 2.4 chassis on my car same set-up same tire and pretty close to same temps from the week before. The car felt GREAT. But I struggled all day with lap time on the clock. The car was consistantly 6 secs. slower in five mins. than the week before. Everyone elses times were the same or better. Nothing I did changed the times on paper. But the car drove so well.
I changed chassis back to stk. and the times came right back to what I had been running with the car before the chassis swap. This is on a track that is untreated and has pretty decent grip. I was running stk.
I ran stock chassis one run, another identical car with 2.4mm chassis and didn't loose a thing but the car felt more connected.
Jeff