thefan

iTrader: (3)

I used the standard s rear tower but redrilled/cut it using the front tower as a template, mounted it with front bulkhead covers. Standard shocks work perfectly and the body posts dont end up under the wing so a well worth it mod that costs zero dollars.

Rozzt_iwa

can some one give me hints to stop the rear end sliding out

cannon

iTrader: (35)

If you are running 2 degrees rear toe try increasing it to 3 degrees

6376vette

When is the rear loose? On power, off power, under braking, corner entry, corner exit? All of these things are important to know as each one has a different fix. its all about controlling the weight shift and the braking or accelerating forces being applied. Your current set up will be useful.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

I use harder springs up front and softer in the rear, 50/40 wt f/r, 3deg rear toe, diffs 5000/1000 f/r, i also just fitted x1 rear arms which supposedly adds more rear grip although i havent driven it since so cant say

davenz

I used to have my sakura zero slide the tail out until i changed the oil in the front diff. I was running 2000 with 800 rear. but I then changed to 900 rear with 30,000 front. Great improvement. I have since changed to 200,000 oil in front diff with 900 in the rear. wow. even more of a difference. the tail does not slide out. But in saying this, there is more factors than just changing diff oils. but that is something that could help. It will not be the only thing that will stop the rear sliding out.
If you could show us your current setup, maybe someone could help more.
I currently run sakura zero with tekin rs pro/13.5 redline, and sakura s with 80% alloy zero parts - x1 steering with hw 21.5
I also changed to harder tyres...... from sorex 28s to sorex 32s.
Dave

BCZero

iTrader: (2)

Really soft springs, I use the tamiya TRF mini springs as they are a direct fit, the softest TRF spring is a lot softer than the softest 3racing spring.

dashstryk3

iTrader: (4)

Hey all, I'm from the nitro off road side of RC trying to get into the electric on road side of RC . I've narrowed down my search and came across the Sakura Zero , as far as I know there are 2 (Sakura Zero S and Sakura Zero pro kit) versions of it, am I right? What are the differences between the 2? I know the Sakura Zero has many option parts in it, but what makes it that much more expensive? I can get the Sakura Zero S for RM400 (USD130) here in Malaysia and the Sakura Zero for RM1300 (USD415). Looking at the price point, that is more than double the price of the Sakura Zero S. Sorry if this question has already been asked.

GDF

iTrader: (2)

I had the same issue. I first tried heavier diff oil in the front (100k) and lighter diff oil rear (2000). That helped a bit. Next I put softer springs in the rear (5.5), which also helped. However switching to X1 arms in the rear had the largest effect, and now I finally have the rear end planted.

Next I plan to experiment with sway bars.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Isn't 2000 the kit diff oil?

Try going to about 1000, or even lower. I've used as low as 450. Just to try, go down by one rate all around at least. I found 5.0 front to be to heavy. At the moment I'm on 5.75 and 6.0. Thats for med-low asphalt though.

The narrow rear end helps it transfer weight better during change of direction. You can do it using either the XI rear arms, or the narrow mount blocks.

Also, make sure your rear arms arent binding, and fall freely under just their own weight. You should also check your droop settings, and make sure not to much weight is going to the front. One last weird one. I rebuilt shocks a while back, but tightened the lower ballcups to much and it was causing all kinds of weird stuff. Added about 2mm and the car was heaps better.

6376vette

The zero has all of the aluminum and carbon pieces. The zero s is a reinforced plastic material and doesn't have very much aluminium. All of the upgrades are not necessary to have a competitive car but they are nice to have. It is the carbon and aluminium that drives up the price on the zero.

6376vette

You have received some good responses and each one will work in certain conditions but you really need to post your set up so we can know what is happening. Softer springs and diff oil even rear arms will not help in an off power or under braking loose condition. We need to know camber toe springs shock oil motor FDR droop sway bars (if you are using them) shock position etc.

From my personal experiences racing this car almost every week on different surfaces for over a year is that you do not need to be buying a ton of extra stuff to get it to hook up. This car is completely tuneable.

Just about every racing situation you want a very thick diff oil (300000+) or a spool in the front and a very light oil in the rear diff so start there. I use a spool up front and 60 wt shock oil in the v2 gear diff in the rear. I also had a bad off power loose condition and on power loose condition that was solved by running very stiff front springs, medium rear springs anti dive and pro squat.

thefan

iTrader: (3)

wow 300000 in the front diff would give you heaps of on power steering but id imagine a very loose rear end on power, i only ever used 7000 in my truggy

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Why? If the rear diff is at 1000, with a softer rear spring it's fine?

I've come from a spool down to 300000 to produce more initial steering. Car has plenty of rear grip.

GDF

iTrader: (2)

Yes, the stock diff oil is 2000. And my spring setup for front/rear at 5.5/6.5, not 5.5 for the rear as I posted earlier. I have to read what I type more carefully when posting half asleep.

I also added a 1mm spacer under the rear inner camber link which lowers the rear roll center and increases rear grip at corner entry. I believed that helped as well.