Bappe

dont know how the v1 diff is but i built the v2 for my sakura xi, and its smooth, feels far better out of the box than the spec r diffs i had in my previous car

LOSI123

iTrader: (63)

thanks bappe

also does anyone know if the front belt stretchs and comes loose after a while, as even with the front belt tension set as loose as posible its still very tight, i know you can get 19t pulleys but i was wanting to know if you have to.

Pro10noob

iTrader: (13)

It won't stretch that much that it will free up your drive train.
Go for the option you mentioned yourself.
Works like a charm.

regards Roy

Stef71

I received my car last week and i've just finished the construction today. I'm impressed by the overall quality of this kit. Very good for the price. The only things that i find a little cheap are the gears with their plastic pinions. It took me several times to assemble them correctly without leaking. They're still not very smooth. My next hop-ups will be the alloy bulkheads and servo mount as the stock ones are too soft. I've got 5mm space with the body and I'd like to change the wheels too. I am wondering what's the offset of the stock wheels, can somebody help me please?

Monkeys punk

Does anyone know the part numbers for the bits I need to run a spool upfront. I see the solid axel and out drives but don't know what pulley will fit. Will the one way pull fit ok ?

Stangas

iTrader: (11)

kewl.. i am looking into setting one of these as a VTA for a mate of mine

our club runs a bracket system 24 second lap times, so top speed is not a huge problem.
this belt tension problem looks like it needs nipping early with the 19T and alloy adapter.
i am gonna struggle with the original motor mounting but once fixed, i cant see it being altered too much anyway... see how i go.. my xray t2 008 has a very similar problem.

Questions:
Does the kit come with stabilisers?
Are the diffs any good? I race boosted stock and run a spool.. was thinking of that direction also (or blutac)
Will tamiya mini shocks be the same length? I will wait and see anyway.. i have a few sets with springs

For monkey: i think..
Solid Front Axle - SAK-08/PK
Solid Axle Outer - SAK-09
38T - SAK-02

dynamic_e

iTrader: (56)

+ YouTube Video

Some observations from building it.

1) On the shocks, they will leak unless you remove flashing/sand level the tops of the shock bodies.
2) Manual is kind of like Lego, where the black is dark enough to make it difficult to see the orientation of parts, notably bulkheads.
3) Plastic quality isn't bad, but isnt hard like Xray for the bulkheads. Arms are great quality though.
4) Belt is tight with factory settings and dosent improve at any of the settings. Probably needs to be broken in.

I am going to set it up for drift, so some bluetac or silly putty is in order for the gear diff.

Kit dosent come with swaybars.

Monkeys punk

I built may kit tonight in about 4 hours and am really impresses with the quality of the parts for such a cheap kit. The only problem I have so far is that i cant stop the bearing cams (belt tensioner adjusters) to stay put once set. Even with the bulkhead covers on i can still move the adjuster with a touch of a tip of a hex driver. Has anyone else had this problem and if so is there a way round it. I was thinking I could put a shim or two inside the adjuster to push it closer to the slot and maybe this will stop it ?
Any help would be great guys

Stangas

iTrader: (11)

i bought two of these last night.. complete will all the upgrades except rear bulkheads (not available). That is new shocks too.

Total was US$245ea with everything, so AUS$ about 220.

We setting up for VTA as previously mentioned.
I have built the F-109 recently and was fairly impressed.. but the turnbuckles are terrible.. so expecting similar treatment. Might upgrade to xray springsteel stuff when i need to.

Running:
GTB & X12 17.5 in one
HW V2.1 & X12 17.5 in the other

FauxMako

Once the cam hits the bottom of the "U", the bump on the bulkhead should keep the cam from rotating.

Monkeys punk

Yeah thats what I thought but it not doing it on one side of the rear. It's as if it needs shimming to get all the way on. Didn't know if anyone else had come across this issue. Never had it on a TC before.

Stef71

Hi,
I had a similar problem when mounting my diffs. Watch if they are correctly assembled, it took me three times to get it. Especially the big Gear Differential O-Ring. If they're not correctly assembled they will be too wide and won't fit in your bulkheads. They can also leak.
Second thing is to watch for the bearings to come close to the gear case. I had to file a little my gears for that.
Then I found my bulkheads were too soft and not very straight. Unscrew them a little to let them shim.

Monkeys punk

Cheers for that I will check it. I think if anything mine is too narrow though.

off road god

iTrader: (13)

How does the verticle motor mount work on the zero s?

The belt has no way to travel and my cf top plate wont work...can someone explain this?

I bought this one used but it looks brand new. No scratches or wear showing anywhere. Got the cf top plate and the vert mount with it but cannot figure how the mount works...

texastc

iTrader: (2)

you have to flip the belts. The long belt goes on opposite side now and vice versa with the shorty. not sure about the cf upper deck, on the frp upper deck I dremelled a bit off of it for the motor mount to fit.