3Racing Sakura Zero S
#781
Tech Initiate
Hi.
Thinking about buying this car. But what size motor would be a good size (t) to use it for parkinglot bashing and some drifting?
And what size bodys does fit? 190 or 200? All that fits tt01? Or is it trouble with the rear posts?
Thinking about buying this car. But what size motor would be a good size (t) to use it for parkinglot bashing and some drifting?
And what size bodys does fit? 190 or 200? All that fits tt01? Or is it trouble with the rear posts?
#783
200mm bodies work fine too. Just use wheel spacers or get wheels with higher offsets to fill out the wheel wells.
#784
Tech Initiate
Ok, what about shape? Could I use all types? Porsche, merc and so on, or does it have to be a type protorform or that kind of "touringcar" shape?
And it's only the bodyposts that are different from the tt01, not the shockclerance or that sort of thing?
Is it offset 0 rims with 190mm body?
Regarding engine I was thinking about speed. I want to go brushless. But wondering how fast engine I should get. I have seen in the tread that there could be some issue with the size of the spurwheelsize with some engines. What would be the best match? 17,5t?
I would like a fast and strong engine. No class for competition.
My local dealer have it with 13,5t
And it's only the bodyposts that are different from the tt01, not the shockclerance or that sort of thing?
Is it offset 0 rims with 190mm body?
Regarding engine I was thinking about speed. I want to go brushless. But wondering how fast engine I should get. I have seen in the tread that there could be some issue with the size of the spurwheelsize with some engines. What would be the best match? 17,5t?
I would like a fast and strong engine. No class for competition.
My local dealer have it with 13,5t
#785
Yes. 190mm is the width of the body. Wider wheel hubs or offset wheels push the wheels out to fill out a 200mm body.
Regarding engine I was thinking about speed. I want to go brushless. But wondering how fast engine I should get. I have seen in the tread that there could be some issue with the size of the spurwheelsize with some engines. What would be the best match? 17,5t?
I would like a fast and strong engine. No class for competition.
My local dealer have it with 13,5t
I would like a fast and strong engine. No class for competition.
My local dealer have it with 13,5t
#786
Tech Initiate
If you aren't racing in a class, then the motor is up to you. Lower "T" number is more power. 17.5 is the norm for touring cars. 13.5 is super stock classes. Lower for mod classes. All 540 size motors will mount up the same. But, your gearing will be different depending on the power of the motor.
#787
Yes i know how offset work on my big car so that should be ok. But on my big car, the default offset makes the wheel go a bit under the body, and does not give me the agressive look I like. Would 0 offset rims make them match the wheelarc or will they be a bit covered by the body?
Since you said you aren't racing, just get what you like the look of. You aren't going to be limited by any class rules.
If you're just planning on bashing/running around a parking lot, I'd stay in the 13.5-17.5 range. It'll be plenty fast. Going lower can definitely get your top speed up, but, yes, at the cost of acceleration.
#788
Tech Initiate
I don't think I've ever seen an RC wheel with negative offset. Typically they are 0, 3, 6, 9 and 12mm. Higher numbers stick out further. Not all wheels will be offered in all offsets. As far as what offset you need, it depends somewhat on the body and the look you want. Some bodies have more wheel arches/flares than others. You can also use washers and/or thicker wheel hexes to manipulate width if the wheels you want aren't offered in the offset you want. 0/3mm for 190mm bodies, 3/6/9 for 200mm bodies is a good starting point.
Since you said you aren't racing, just get what you like the look of. You aren't going to be limited by any class rules.
If you're just planning on bashing/running around a parking lot, I'd stay in the 13.5-17.5 range. It'll be plenty fast. Going lower can definitely get your top speed up, but, yes, at the cost of acceleration.
Since you said you aren't racing, just get what you like the look of. You aren't going to be limited by any class rules.
If you're just planning on bashing/running around a parking lot, I'd stay in the 13.5-17.5 range. It'll be plenty fast. Going lower can definitely get your top speed up, but, yes, at the cost of acceleration.
And 13,5 would be good I guess. There are no spurewheel in the kit?
#789
The kit comes with a spur gear, not sure the number of teeth, but 48 pitch. Specs on the spur gear should be in the manual. No pinion gear in the kit.
The kit does come with wheels and tires. 24-26mm wide, basic tread. White spokes. Pretty sure they are 0 offset. Not positive, never used them. They should be fine to start with.
The kit does come with wheels and tires. 24-26mm wide, basic tread. White spokes. Pretty sure they are 0 offset. Not positive, never used them. They should be fine to start with.
#790
Tech Initiate
Great info! Tnx! :-)
#791
I find the stock 3Racing tires to have great grip.. though at the cost of relatively quick tread wear. But...for $10 a full set (around $15 shipped from HK) I wouldn't complain.
If you plan on just bashing though, you'd probably want something that'll last longer.
If you plan on just bashing though, you'd probably want something that'll last longer.
#792
Tech Initiate
More good info.
But I have a lot of wheels and tires for my Traxxas Rally, and they are also 12mm hex with 0 offset so they should work. Have some HPI sets. I have a set of X-patern that gives to much grip for the Rally, it just flips with them. Guess they would work on the Sakura. The original Rally tires should be good for drifting. Then I can permanently convert my Rally to a Merv, and use the Sakura for speed and drifting.
But I have a lot of wheels and tires for my Traxxas Rally, and they are also 12mm hex with 0 offset so they should work. Have some HPI sets. I have a set of X-patern that gives to much grip for the Rally, it just flips with them. Guess they would work on the Sakura. The original Rally tires should be good for drifting. Then I can permanently convert my Rally to a Merv, and use the Sakura for speed and drifting.
#793
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
So I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a Zero S. I've skimmed through this thread, but admittedly haven't made the time to read each and every page. Huckman (Mike) races locally with me and is a huge proponent of the Zero S. Unfortunately, I only get to chat with him on Saturdays when we're racing. LOL. Anyway, he and the rest of this thread has convinced me this is quite possibly THE best bang for the buck when it comes to belt-driven TC cars. I know I'm going to order the following with it:
I won't order a new top plate as I understand only a little mod is needed to use the stocker.
I see there are mixed opinions on whether or not smaller pulleys are needed. I think Mike slotted some screw holes and was able to get some loose and smooth front belt action. Any other thoughts on this?
I'll need a 4.6:1 FDR for the GT class I run and am currently running 48P gears in my shafties, but will most likely switch over to 64P with the Zero S. Has anyone run into any problems running small spurs? I see some of y'all have super huge pinions. I'm trying to avoid the extra rotating mass.
- Extra A-arms
- Extra hubs
- Extra C-carriers
- Extra A-arm mounts
- Aluminum, vertical motor mount
I won't order a new top plate as I understand only a little mod is needed to use the stocker.
I see there are mixed opinions on whether or not smaller pulleys are needed. I think Mike slotted some screw holes and was able to get some loose and smooth front belt action. Any other thoughts on this?
I'll need a 4.6:1 FDR for the GT class I run and am currently running 48P gears in my shafties, but will most likely switch over to 64P with the Zero S. Has anyone run into any problems running small spurs? I see some of y'all have super huge pinions. I'm trying to avoid the extra rotating mass.
#794
So I'm pretty certain I'm going to order a Zero S. I've skimmed through this thread, but admittedly haven't made the time to read each and every page. Huckman (Mike) races locally with me and is a huge proponent of the Zero S. Unfortunately, I only get to chat with him on Saturdays when we're racing. LOL. Anyway, he and the rest of this thread has convinced me this is quite possibly THE best bang for the buck when it comes to belt-driven TC cars. I know I'm going to order the following with it:
I won't order a new top plate as I understand only a little mod is needed to use the stocker.
I see there are mixed opinions on whether or not smaller pulleys are needed. I think Mike slotted some screw holes and was able to get some loose and smooth front belt action. Any other thoughts on this?
I'll need a 4.6:1 FDR for the GT class I run and am currently running 48P gears in my shafties, but will most likely switch over to 64P with the Zero S. Has anyone run into any problems running small spurs? I see some of y'all have super huge pinions. I'm trying to avoid the extra rotating mass.
- Extra A-arms
- Extra hubs
- Extra C-carriers
- Extra A-arm mounts
- Aluminum, vertical motor mount
I won't order a new top plate as I understand only a little mod is needed to use the stocker.
I see there are mixed opinions on whether or not smaller pulleys are needed. I think Mike slotted some screw holes and was able to get some loose and smooth front belt action. Any other thoughts on this?
I'll need a 4.6:1 FDR for the GT class I run and am currently running 48P gears in my shafties, but will most likely switch over to 64P with the Zero S. Has anyone run into any problems running small spurs? I see some of y'all have super huge pinions. I'm trying to avoid the extra rotating mass.
Haven't verified it personally but a chart was posted here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9694373-post651.html
of all the possible gearing combinations that would mount up.
As far as slotting screw holes to loosen up the front belt that only ones I can think of slotting would be the spur gear shaft screws. I'd be worried slotting the holes for the spur gear shaft that it would end up running at an angle and cause gear mesh issues. The force of the belts pulling one side to the front and one side to the rear would be trying to rotate it all the time. Could cause some binding as well.
Some have posted that the belt that comes with the Zero S kit and the belt you get when you order the option part aren't the same belt. Haven't confirmed that either.
I solved it with the alum spur gear holder and 19T pullies. Side effect is that it makes your IDR 2.0 and all that math becomes so much easier
#795
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Thanks Mike! I think the ITR of 2.0 helps justify the pullies and aluminum spur mount.
Yeah, I've broken all of the above-listed parts at one time or another. Our non-forgiving boards at our track don't help, either. Better to be safe than sorry, especially since our LHS does not support this car.
Yeah, I've broken all of the above-listed parts at one time or another. Our non-forgiving boards at our track don't help, either. Better to be safe than sorry, especially since our LHS does not support this car.