Tamiya oils are neither wt or cst. Wonder what the equivalent #300 and #400 is?

I rarely run it myself. And if I do I make sure I'm alone on the track.

In general, I believe everything short makes a car reactive/quick while long makes slower/smoother movements. Right now I just slapped on the softest tamiya springs I could legally use. Will test several tomorrow (long, short, red, yellow, etc). Front shock length is around 55mm (one black oring to limit length) and 57mm rear (no limiters). Uptravel 2mm front, around 4mm rear.

I don't have the pro black springs. Are they as soft as the neon or stiff as the newer thicker red/yellow springs?

Thanks for the kind words. My daughter is already running TC mod (4.5T).

I spent so much time tuning the M05 in 2010 that I'm so sick of it. The M06 is a breath of fresh air, a new challenge :lol:

Thanks, I meant 30wt and 40wt. Made the correction.

If you guys have tips, please let me know as well. Right now, I shimmed the slop out of the car, almost zero slop front and rear. But handling became very, how should I say, ugly.

I also made the experience as you with the springs. The shorter versions, even with same color code, are more progressive and stiffen up more at the same travel. One Tamiya driver I know confirmed me that opinion.
It´s useful sometimes, but can me make a car sometimes too agressive.
The black springs of the Pro kit shall be the same as the short neon ones, just all coded black. They definitely are not the stronger ones recommended for M05. Kit setup is red in front and yellow in rear. Anyway, kit setup on M06 Pro is very tough, using 700 Tamiya oil in rear...
Never will forget the first time I hit a "curve dish", as I totally flew off.

Hope you´re getting not sick of "learning" the M06 so quick, so that we get some good setups from you...;)

I will improve my documentation this year, too, as I learned that the small differences often destroy or make the good drive. Once you have some setup sheets for different conditions, it´s much more relaxed to setup the car....

BR, Matthias

I think it will be a while before I get sick of the M06. Right now I cannot even get it to track straight. :lol:

And if I do get bored, I simply slap on a 4.5T motor, like what I did to my M04. Scary stuff when its rear wheel drive.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=by3qyP05bTA

Tamiya M06 Pro
 

this is a dumb question, but will the M03/M04 bodies fit the M06? I'm not really into onroad.. but considering an M06 build for our website, as they look pretty cool. I've owned an M03 & M04 before.. but nobody runs them around here.. so they were quickly sold off after building them.

M06
 

It all depends on what chassis length you build the M06. It comes with everything to make the short, medium, or long chassis. You would have to look up what bodies fit the chassis. I built mine to fit the Alpine body, which is a short chassis.

Not too many tamiya bodies fit the M06 due to the motor sticking out in the rear.

Short - S800, Alpine A110
Medium - Miata, Alfa Romeo GTA
Long - Mazda RX7, Mercedes Benz SLK

I was looking specifically at the COLT Yaris body.. which is a 210mm wb. I went from looking at the M06 this morning.. to 3Racing's TT01 M Chassis conversion (4wd mini).. to now looking at the HPI Cup Racer.. lol I'm in over my head.

Only body that wont fit the M06 is the HPI Stratos, because it needs front lays down shocks. The Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR (old version) will fit, if you decide NOT to install the mock motor in back. Otherwise any hatchback like mini, swift and other FWD (if you chose to run those)> You also have the Datsun 280Z (92214), Datsun 240Z (51407) that's on the M05-Ra, plus the new Renault R5 turbo (body parts set number not yet announced)

From HPI: The Datsun 510, 240Z, BMW 2002, Porsche RSR, Toyota Levin

Then you also have the ABC Hobby bodies. Lots to choose from there. :D

http://www.abchobbyusa.com/110miniscalebodyshells.aspx

So lots to choose from!

I spoke to a Tamiya tech regarding the R5 turbo. He told me that as of now that body is only available with the kit. He also told me anytime a Tamiya part number starts with 84 it means It's limited production which (according to him) means it won't be available as the body alone. One thing he pointed out is that body is lexan but the front clip is abs. That sucks for racing unless you don't mind a busted up front end. And I almost bought the kit just for the body. But hopefully he was just talking out the side of his neck and completely wrong about everything. I would really love to have that.

The part numbers starting with 84 is available as separate bodies. Look here at the bottom 5 bodies. If you can wait for Team Blue Groove to come back online they have an R5 body for the mini.

To understand Tamiya,

the R5 turbo is a rerelease body of an onroad pan car from 1981,
that´s why the front bumper is ABS. But it´s quite durable and brings some weight on my M05 RA front axle. It´s a beauty.
But I´m not quite sure, if the rear is long enough to mount on a M06 chassis.
Haven´t tried it yet...
BR,
Matthias

You are right, its questionable

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g1...erimageasp.jpg

Ran the M06 last Saturday. The black cva mini plastic shocks with 2 holes and 30 - 40wt oil was too soft (maybe that's why the kit recommends 700). Switched to TRF mini shocks with 3hole, 40 wt oil, much better. Cornering felt fast.

But still tended to wander left/right. Will try a light/medium tight gear diff or put some slop in the front steering linkages. If that fails, back to the long wheelbase.

Offtopic, my friend brought is homemade mini rear wheel drive. It was so good and fun to drive. I give it a 10/10, my M06 a 7/10.

http://www.rccartips.com/homemade-mi...ar-rwd-pan.jpg

I'm studying his car hoping I can translate the design to tuning the M06. Weight was 1,100 grams. M06 is 1,400.