Hi guys,

I also run now the 3R diff for the first time.
Kit oil is really not for a RWD. Probably they just changed the label for the M06...
I changed simply to Tamiya soft shock oil without cleaning it to good from the kit oil, but its much lighter now and feels already quite good to me. Maybe slightly more tight than my Ta03 ball diff I run outdoors.
I will not change back to kit diff, I guess, but try even thinner oil and not greasing the outdrives (which I did when assembling).
My plan is to have it just before spinning freely when turning one wheel.
But the track will show the best solution, I guess...

What I really can recommend are the new Tamiya carbon shock towers, which make especially the rear tower less flex, and they are not too expensive. Also I have now 2 more holes in front for the dampers, definetly next tryout to see effect on turn in!:nod:

BR,
Matthias

I can't get the thing to stop leaking, so it's getting rebuilt with heavier oil and stuck in my M-03.

Hi from Spain,
I have my M06 since december, as soon as rcmart get on stock I ordered mine, and ran some races with it. Here we use 13T brushless and sweep mini tires. We share circuits with 1/10 and even 1/5 so they are pretty big for M chasis.

After reading thread seem some of you had same problem than me with rear camber post. I can't believe they designed such a bad piece, and by now seems no solution but homemade ones. I bends just looking at. Which is better solution you have found for?

I love this car. Is really easy to drive, since first time I put on track were pretty stable and easy to drive. Then had some interference problems with steering because electronics distribution but after solve I think this car can bite hard any 03 or 05. Left place for electronics is so small I putted receiver over battery holder and seems that when I accelerate battery makes interference turning mad steering servo... And car goes hell

Ball diff is not an option for me in this car, gears do the job much better and you don't need to care about slip. On my F104 learned to control RWD and if M06 had same direction nobility...

Thats my experience, don't try to give classes anybody because I'm pretty new on hobby.

Greets to Spain,

good to hear from your fun with this Chassis!
13t Brushless is really, really a lot of power!
Dou run sensorless, or even with timing?
Anyway, your setup including tires, dampers... would really be interesting.

For the rear tower problem I agree with you, at the moment I fixed mine with selfmade alu sheet for the inner upper arm links, and took the Tamiya carbon damper stay above.
I hope, somebody will manufacture a damper stay from carbon including the lower links in it, this would really fix this problem...

If you run the longer wheelbase: I put my receiver in front of the battery standing on the side, so I gained more space for my speedo on the side and it´s far from the motor...

BR to Spain,
Matthias

On circuits we run 13T is nice and 06 is nice to drive. Drivetrain, normal or reinforced, doesn't suffer with this motor.
We use the hobbywing combo and they have less torque than equivalent 540, also sweep tyres are smaller than tamiya mini ones, so the cars get more or less the same speed than with spot tuner and touring gas tires we used before.
About set up depends on track. Circuits here are asfalt both and where I practice is very bumpy so i need to raise a bit the car.
On last race I use this setup. Short chassis with alpine body:
Back:
-tyres: hard (soft inner)
-spring: hard (blue)
-oil: tamiya yellow (two holes)
-ride high: 5mm
Front
-tyres: soft (soft inner)
-spring: soft (red)
-oil: tamiya red (three holes)
-ride high: 4.5 mm

Tried the new 3R Gear Diff. All I can say is WOW. Put 1000wt in and I was coming off the corners harder than anyone else. Not sure if it is leaking as I will inspect it this week. Was the fastest car on the indoor carpet track. We also made the change to brushless. About the same speed as a good silver can, but lots more torque. I softened the back springs which kept the back end planted. I didn't notice any oversteer under power. Best the car has ever handled. Too bad they just changed the rules here and allow only Tamiya Diffs:cry: back to square one

Ive ordered one of these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2708030575...84.m1439.l2649

Just going to use the lower half with the Tamiya carbon tower, hopefully will solve the camber link mount issues

*EDIT* - Be quick only one left!

don't know that

"After reading thread seem some of you had same problem than me with rear camber post. I can't believe they designed such a bad piece, and by now seems no solution but homemade ones. I bends just looking at. Which is better solution you have found for?"

what I did with my mo6, was i mounted every thing on the rear shock tower backwards. It dose make it easier to get to, but not as easy as some 1/10 tc's

I also tryed same for rear post but noticed that when suspension get compresed camber changed lots to possitive. Original possition is more neutral, but is a quick solution if you break on a race

so I kinda by passed buying the whole Tamiya M06 and upgrading slowly path and got this...

http://www.broadtech.hk/index.php?gO...&goodsid=31153

still some bits to get but overall I like the look of it better.

the only thing I dont like about that chassis, is I could not see if you could ajust the wheel base on it. Other wise it looks good.

any pic?

First guys had have the idea of rear camber links support in aluminium and not so expensive... look at broadtech.hk in M06 zone (I can't post url)

I saw a second-hand one of those in my LHS and the first thing I thought was "wow aluminium".... it is very pretty...