Not quite. I used the setup you posted on your Webby (thanks for that!) But in a lwb, servo and ESC in centre (I dstaped both down), long to shocks all round (and towers), hingepin ball studs all round, and 6mm front, 4mm rear hexes.

Tires are Tamiya type B (outdoor) with hard inserts for front, soft inserts for rear (for tac), or team powers 32r(for non-tac)

Track is outdoor mid traction asphalt.

i find that having a wide rear does make the rear a little looser out of a turn. But I'll go try with wide rears again.

Alexander

What is a good handling 225mm body that fits the M06? Must be a Tamiya shell. I already have the Alfa Giulia body but want to see what else works.

I think the new Miata is 225mm wheelbase and fits the M06.

My 2004 M04 is still going strong without cracks and is faster than my M06. Many like the M06 but I feel it was a step backwards being heavier, brittle and complex to assemble/disassemble. If I could only race with my M04

M06 Silvia in action

Really entertaining Joel! So she is not racing anymore, but still got her skills!
So I forgot to answer in my last post: M06 is quite rare in Germany, actually. Seems like only a few have the "balls" to use it against the FWD´s.
I also still got my M04, but would never like to go back to it. M06 was in my experience easier to drive, more stable and less prone to grip roll. The additional weight was never a backdraw to the other M´s in my experience. It just helped to stick the beast to the ground on high grip carpet especially.
From the plastics quality, the M06 is comparable to M05 in my eyes, (I have 2), and my M06 took a lot of abuse and fights with the big 4WD touring cars. So it´s o.k. for me that the front upper part finally broke. Knuckles were quite flexible when new. So was the rear shock tower mount, where the camber links attach to. Those mounts were bending on hard side impacts and changing toe settings.But I switch to aluminum knuckles on all my M´s for racing, the Tamiya alu as the 3 Racing and Eagle Racing material is really strong. Yeah Racing is not as strong to my experiences.I´m keen on some tuning and refreshing of my M06, so I want to switch to one piece wishbones, and TB05 Aluminum diff housing. (not that it´s really needed). And I started a second M06 build recently, based on the Eagle racing chassis kit I have lying since years and some spare parts: I want to build a 210mm Lancia Stratos with middle engine from this pieces, as a nice Sunday racer / shelf queen car.Many thanks for your video tutorial, really kind to show us your excellent build skills. Will try to use some of your technologies for my cars, too.And I´m really curious about your progresses the next months.

Kind regards from Germany,

Matthias

It seems Joel has added some fuel to fire here. Our local TCS race is not until april but I set out to fine tune my M06. I started on the rear and worked on taking the play out of the rear. I used Joels CA method on the arms which worked like a charm. My rear hubs are the aluminium and axles are the CVD. What I found interesting about the CVDs was that shimming in between bearings did not work so well. When I looked at the CVD axle.. on the inner part where axle meets the cup, there is a lowered surface. Thats the area I ended up shimming. I also found it useful to doing the trial and error test it outside of the up right. I would add shims, add inner bearing, add centre spacer, add outer bearing, cross pin and hex and see how much play there was.

After finishing the rear I set out on the front.. which is always much worse on the M chassis cars. I not only needed to put CA on the suspension arms, I ended up adding some to the C hub and the Chassis pin holder. End result became a little tight.. so I had to hone the holes. Its still a little tighter than I like but after some laps I am sure it will loosen up. Im curious to know how long the CA will last before slop settles back in..

I ended up changing to a new centre main tub.. as there were cracks in multiple screw holes. I had one new in my spares so it was time.. after 9 years!

Last I tried to measure as Joel had done for the suspension travel. This I found most daunting as I was not coming up with distance numbers anywhere close to his. Joel, if you could elaborate the two points you used to measure it would be great.

I ended up using a long screw and placing it in each shock hole. Then I would measure from the top of the shock to this long screw and record the distance travelled from 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 mm. I am using the optional carbon rear shock tower, not sure if that has anything to do with it. I also found measuring the inner shock hole the most difficult as there is no way to get a straight / linear measurement using a calliper. Space is tight.

I am able to report just as Joel showed.. the centre shock hole does show odd results. So probably best to avoid.. oddly enough.. that was the hole I was using haha. The inner hole is the most linear.

Hi Raman,

I measured the suspension from the inside neck of the ballstuds by the inside caliper.
Our reading will differ, depending on the vertical plane inclination of our upper/lower studs.
Took several readings (all different) and just averaged it out.
RWD is fun and challenging, keeps me playing. FWD/4WD is zzzzzzzzzz.
Been playing everyday and enjoying RWDs. Today will test neon red vs neon yellow. Then a softer gear diff.

The CA method?

I remember just before getting back into racing at the end of 2011, I was practicing with my M06 Pro at a small gray carpet track at a local hobby store. On foam tires and a black sport tuned Tamiya brushed motor, it was stupidly fun to drive.