Dan Hamann

iTrader: (27)

They are Ti screws from Gravity RC. Seem to be fine. Not sure how much lighter they are. With a LW Speed6 I'm at 1380g. Orca seems decent, always trying different motors. Has better bottom end punch than my previous D3.5, and doesn't seem to fade at higher temps.

rc car guy

sweet i have one coming are you running the ht rotor or stock? also how do you think alum screws would hold up, im at 1386 but most of the weight to be lost is in the body but id rather put steel screws into the buttom side of the card to add weight there than it up top on my body haha

RussF

iTrader: (22)

I've always kinda liked the box stock setup for VTA, but I did add a gear diff in front.

Seems to me that Darkside posted his VTA setup one time, or if you PM him he will send it to you.

I'm pretty sure I've found some other VTA setups posted in this thread but it would require some searching around.

Dan Hamann

iTrader: (27)

12.5 rotor. Aluminum screws is something up to the individual. I've had them , never had issues. Some guys I know have had nothing but issues with aluminum. Probably wise to run Ti or Steel through high stress areas to prevent busting off screws, especially if the car sees a lot of impacts.

Rick Hohwart

This is Myron Kinnard's TC6 setup for VTA. It should get you pretty close.
Myron Kinnard - TC6 VTA

rc car guy

ya i currenty only have them in the plastic portions

cut like 10grams out of the car just by that so far

gearit

thanks, I will give it a try

Adonis_mp

iTrader: (9)

Not sure that I aggree, if you look at each end, it has a diffrent number. I don't have a picture of the one i have but if you look at the once on amain, you can see the #3 on one and #14 on another. I also know that there are other numbers because I separated the once I have by the number and had about 5 diffrent groups.

edonsohc

iTrader: (10)

could be a cavity number. most injection molded parts have more than one part in the mold. something that small is probably around a 24-32 cavity mold.

Michael@USPN

iTrader: (2)

Thats exactly right. Theres a total number that they come in and they are just marked out of which one they are. Nothing special.

Michael@USPN

iTrader: (2)

.

Michael@USPN

iTrader: (2)

Just wanted to say thanks to A. Brumblay, R. Hohwart, Evo Chick and some of the others who had mentioned on how to get rid of the slop/(wear and tear) from a full season of racing. I got my slop out of my tc 6.1wc and the car has come back to life for me

Here's a video of my tc 6.1wc being a very competitive car to a lot of other great manufacturers out in the field. For being a very reasonable priced car....it can win baby

This was our toys for tots final major race of our season at Norcal Hobbies.
My car is in tq position. Pink car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHzJ...e_gdata_player

I know I did some mistakes, but it wasnt the cars fault. I still have much work to do.
Thanks Jon Johnson for the video, and all the great guys at Norcal Hobbies.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KHzJ...e_gdata_player

quinnfrazier

i have a 6.1wc and was wondering what's a good track width to run F/R for 17.5 blinky and what's the best way to shim, at the arms or hexes thanks in advance

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Shim at the arms to get the desired track width but you can use wheel shims to test and fine tune. In the front, use the offset blocks and add up to 1.5mm if needed. In the rear, use the offset blocks for the back mount and the standard block for the forward mount. You can add up to 1mm here as well.
When at all possible, shim the arms and use the wheel spacers only for a quick adjustment at a race event. IMO

rc car guy

makes sense but why do you say the measurements is that what makes the car 190 mm?