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Old 07-15-2013, 10:09 PM
  #9406  
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Originally Posted by fresnojay
George, Awesome to hear you got your chassis for GT2. Look forward to running with you. I only run 32's during the first heat then switch to 28's for the second and main. But that is me. Would be interesting to see how it acts using the setup Brian posted.

As for breaking blades on the new car I have only broken 1 and that was when I broke the whole corner off the car. Other than that haven't had an issue with them. My first Worlds car was a different story. Seemed to break them every 3 heats.

Jason
I hate buying those stupid expensive slicks. I got the sorex 32 and they look like they been through hell. Heck richards weeks old slick look like new.



I finished the car at 2am had other small issue to fix. Re center servo, belt is too close to pinion, wiring but still ran it. The first laps I was almost chitting bricks down the straight. . I was this thing is too fast!!!!. Turns out the extreme stock esc was fully maxed out on timing. After putting it under blinky it was a whole lot slower animal!! I ran gt2 intermediate as I don't know where am at, but I think I'm gonna bump to gt2 expert class. I know I can't hang with them but its a lot cleaner and sometimes there is a b main so I get an extra heat of practice
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:41 PM
  #9407  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
I hate buying those stupid expensive slicks. I got the sorex 32 and they look like they been through hell. Heck richards weeks old slick look like new.



I finished the car at 2am had other small issue to fix. Re center servo, belt is too close to pinion, wiring but still ran it. The first laps I was almost chitting bricks down the straight. . I was this thing is too fast!!!!. Turns out the extreme stock esc was fully maxed out on timing. After putting it under blinky it was a whole lot slower animal!! I ran gt2 intermediate as I don't know where am at, but I think I'm gonna bump to gt2 expert class. I know I can't hang with them but its a lot cleaner and sometimes there is a b main so I get an extra heat of practice
The powers 34 tires work very good at HT and last for several races. You are looking fast enough to run the expert class. The 6.1 spool is really hard on the blades for some reason. It's got more to do with the out drives rather than the spool itself. If you either change to the reflex out drives or use the 6.0 slipper spool, you will be happier. The gear diff in then front might be good but I still think the spool is quicker at HT.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:45 AM
  #9408  
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Originally Posted by YoDog
The powers 34 tires work very good at HT and last for several races. You are looking fast enough to run the expert class. The 6.1 spool is really hard on the blades for some reason. It's got more to do with the out drives rather than the spool itself. If you either change to the reflex out drives or use the 6.0 slipper spool, you will be happier. The gear diff in then front might be good but I still think the spool is quicker at HT.
Yeah they haven't gotten any team powers tires in weeks. Norcal has them but they wont ship. I did tried my slipper spool and hated it as it will push like a semi.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:02 AM
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george, you should be running 36s when its hot anyways.. you'll over heat the 32s and loose traction, and they wont last as long. I have a set of 36s you can run saturday if you want.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
Yeah they haven't gotten any team powers tires in weeks. Norcal has them but they wont ship. I did tried my slipper spool and hated it as it will push like a semi.
It's all about the setup baby...
I run the slipper and my car turns like mad so I would say that your setup is not quite near the sweet spot yet where changing the front drive doesn't have such a dramatic effect. You can also work with spool height as well.
As Nick mentioned, the track was wayyyyy too hot for 32s.
I ran 36* for the first quali and 34* for the second plus the main. Justin was just way too smooth for me to catch him.
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Old 07-16-2013, 09:39 AM
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yeah i run a spool on my front, and have to much steering usually..

FYI rick, he had his ride height at like 8mm+ to start out, so i lowered it to 6.5 (he wouldnt let me lower it anymore cause he didnt want his pretty chassis to scrape, even though i told him it wouldnt)

The rest of his setup, i coudlnt tell you.

I think george wants to come into a corner at full speed and expect it to turn without having to slow down first
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Old 07-16-2013, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy
yeah i run a spool on my front, and have to much steering usually..

FYI rick, he had his ride height at like 8mm+ to start out, so i lowered it to 6.5 (he wouldnt let me lower it anymore cause he didnt want his pretty chassis to scrape, even though i told him it wouldnt)

The rest of his setup, i coudlnt tell you.

I think george wants to come into a corner at full speed and expect it to turn without having to slow down first
Like I said... setup is key.
If one doesn't want scratches, buy 2 cars and only race one of them or only run on carpet. There is a guy somewhere on here that sells chassis protectors.
Ride height is a key part of a proper chassis setup.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:17 PM
  #9413  
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does anyone have any issues with excessive swelling of gear diff seals after a really short period of time ? Its worse since I went to Modified and I am forever replacing the seals to keep the diff consistent,

Has anyone tried to run the diff without the 2 larger seals ?

just asking

Beth.
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:44 PM
  #9414  
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Originally Posted by evochick
does anyone have any issues with excessive swelling of gear diff seals after a really short period of time ? Its worse since I went to Modified and I am forever replacing the seals to keep the diff consistent,

Has anyone tried to run the diff without the 2 larger seals ?
just asking

Beth.
No I haven't had that problem I was wondering what kind of gear oil are you using. I use Associated 30w shock oil and I haven't had to do any diff maintence I race every week for the last 2 month's since I started running my TC6.1. Some oils do cause Seals to swell.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas
No I haven't had that problem I was wondering what kind of gear oil are you using. I use Associated 30w shock oil and I haven't had to do any diff maintence I race every week for the last 2 month's since I started running my TC6.1. Some oils do cause Seals to swell.
I just use normal associated oil, normally 50wt or 1000 depending on the track

normally grease them associated black grease as per manual, although for something different I have tried green slime on the last diff I built to see it that helps,

but yeah lately they have only ben lasting 2 race meetings before they begin to swell and start to tighten the diff up.

But I never had any problems running blinky, only since starting to go faster running mod.

Beth.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:05 PM
  #9416  
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I am running the oil that the manual has you put in it when its built. So 40wt and have had no issues and I race almost as frequent as Brian. Matter of fact he is one of my running mates/targets, lol.

Jason
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Old 07-16-2013, 10:40 PM
  #9417  
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Originally Posted by bagged69chevy
yeah i run a spool on my front, and have to much steering usually..

FYI rick, he had his ride height at like 8mm+ to start out, so i lowered it to 6.5 (he wouldnt let me lower it anymore cause he didnt want his pretty chassis to scrape, even though i told him it wouldnt)

The rest of his setup, i coudlnt tell you.

I think george wants to come into a corner at full speed and expect it to turn without having to slow down first
you guys crack me up!!!

I just said I don't my want my car on its nuts and have chuncks of the rear chassis missing and having to buy another 90 dollar chassis sooner than later.

I also found out I put the wrong rear toe inserts. I'm at 3.5 toe in and I was told to put the 0s in. I did finally listen to richard and put the same 32 in gt3 (21.5) and ran a full second faster compared to my x patterns

Nick I'm getting a set of 34 & 36 team powers from norcal so I should have them by sat to try out. If it don't turn ill give it more wot to turn !!
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:32 AM
  #9418  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
you guys crack me up!!!

I just said I don't my want my car on its nuts and have chuncks of the rear chassis missing and having to buy another 90 dollar chassis sooner than later.

I also found out I put the wrong rear toe inserts. I'm at 3.5 toe in and I was told to put the 0s in. I did finally listen to richard and put the same 32 in gt3 (21.5) and ran a full second faster compared to my x patterns

Nick I'm getting a set of 34 & 36 team powers from norcal so I should have them by sat to try out. If it don't turn ill give it more wot to turn !!
$90 bucks!!!
Buddy, you are getting your chassis from the wrong place. Most places online are between $55 and $65 bucks. I got mine from TQ down in Chino for $56.00 besides, just because it don't look good, don't mean it don't work good. Scratches and chips are inevitable in parking lot racing so keep a spare in the box for an eventual refresh and beat the crap out of the race chassis. You gotta try my setup one of these days... I haven't changed a thing except tires since The beginning of June. It works good when it's hot and just gets better as the evening goes on.
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:47 AM
  #9419  
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Man I need to hit you up Rick. Now that I am running GT2 with mine anything is worth a shot.

Scratches happen George. I was going to put a chassis protector on the new car but decided not to. If I am doing things right it should last well enough.

Jason
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Old 07-17-2013, 09:49 AM
  #9420  
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YoDog do you have you setup posted somewhere? If not can you post it here?
Also when can I send you money for a motor mount and servo mount?
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