Thanks for sharing,

in the front diff, i have used 80,000 cst, 150,000 cst, 300,000 cst, but never as low as 3,000 cst.
Will try that....

:nod::nod::nod:

So now I need your help guys! It would also be nice if you, Rick (Hohwart), could give a comment.

I had a race on very high grip carpet last weekend and had two major problems with the car:

1. grip roll
2. very slow cornering

The setup sheet shows my setup in its final development stage on sunday (I arrived with a quite common setup on saturday). The overall handling/balance was very good, but the car was like slow motion in the corners and wanted to roll in the fast flowing corners.

http://www.abload.de/thumb/tc6.1_wc_mac_laufibpez.png

Here are some pictures of the track. It has a very slim racing line with sticky traction:

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0948d6ksk.jpg

http://www.abload.de/img/img_0947qrk9d.jpg

Not too much camber at front?

Maybe some ca-glue on front tires sidewalls? It will do for you 'slipp' on that fast corners and front end will slighty push not roll over ...

Lower roll center, harder tires and less droop is a good place to start. Exaggerated negative camber can also help but you will want to leave that as a last resort due to tire-ware issues.

where was the car grip rolling? Entry of Corner Exit mid?
The way the car is set up it looks like you are trying to get alot of off power steering? If it was me I would run less rear droop to start you state only 4.5 i would try like 5.5-6
Also i would drop your rear diff fluid from 3000 to maybe like 1000 or even lower
Another piece would be switch your springs around run purple up front and then blue in the back.
Also maybe less sauce time, maybe like 15 or less?
Just some ideas for you.
Thanks Jason

Revtech 17.5....HT rotor or not
 

I will be running a new Revtech 17.5 motor in my car. Should I use the stock rotor or the High Torque rotor?

The hinge pins should be tight in the hub carrier and the caster block. You can drill a hole in both parts and use a set screw to remove slop.

They are the same length and there are no special instructions for the bearing caps. Their installation is self explanatory.

I run a gear diff on asphalt. Silicone ear plug material works well. You want to start by filling it as much as possible then you can remove some material to tune it.

I have also played with 1 million weight silicone. This feels the best in my opinion. There is a company that sells 2 million which would be even better I think.

You can try one or more of the following:

1. Widen the track at the suspension mounts. I think your car is too narrow for very high grip. I would add 2mm to each side at the front. Then possible add some to the rear starting with .5mm.
2. Longer wheelbase. Go to 1mm as shown on the setup sheet.
3. Less negative camber -1 to -1.5 all around.
4. Lower ride height if you are allowed to and the car does not drag.
5. Lower suspension mounts. Try 1 step at a time all around and see if this helps.

But it could be something as simple as tire additive. I would start by reducing the time you leave the additive on the front tires. Try 30 minutes in the rear and 10 minutes on the front to see what happens. You can also cover less of the front tire. At the very least do not extend the additive tot he edge. But 50% coverage might be good.

Blinky- high torque
Boost- stock rotor is fine

Thanks Rick, my second set of WC bearing caps should be here soon.

I'm new to the TC6.1, so I don't know if this is normal. After my second race, I notice a CVA blade was broken. That same day, another guy at the race broke two CVA blades, but he was running a much faster motor. Is there something that can be done to make them last longer?

These will break from impact. The motor power is not really a factor than that when you run a faster motor you tend to hit the wall harder.

There is not much that can be done to solve the problem other than to try and hit fewer obstacles. Using the slipper spool instead of the straight spool can lessen the impact and will definitely improve blade life. A very tight gear diff will do the same.

Set up tools
 

Thank for everyones help....I ordered the TC6.1ft. I will be messing around in parking lots and trying racing on a concrete track.
What are the minimum set up tools needed for a tc? Not looking to spend to much as this is my first try at touring and want to make sure I like. But I also want to be able to set my car up as needed to enjoy the car and bring it up to racing standards. I've been racing sct 2 &4wd for years and spare no expense on them. I hope I will enjoy racing tc just as well and if so with buy the best set up tools.
Many thanks for everyones help.

Thank you very much guys! I will try these things!

Did I have an error in reasoning when I tried shorter higher positioned armmounts to make the car less roll?

It will roll less this way. Lowering them will allow the car to roll more and may make it less likely to snap over.

The kit droop gauge and a good square ruler are really all thats needed. Its easy to eyeball camber from the ruler and measure each turnbuckle. Make sure to measure on a flat surface and you should be fine.

However a ride hight gauge is a good investment and will make measuring ride hight much easier. Also RPM makes a cheap camber and toe gauge.