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-   -   Team Associated TC6 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/electric-road/414655-team-associated-tc6-thread.html)

geeunit1014 02-14-2012 07:00 PM


Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10329570)

I would go to 1 and 1 for your camber link positions. Going 7 to 1 on the front should help with the buildup. I also like 1 instead of 3 in the rear, it feels more stable to me.

Infinite 12th 02-14-2012 07:07 PM


Originally Posted by geeunit1014 (Post 10329606)
I would go to 1 and 1 for your camber link positions. Going 7 to 1 on the front should help with the buildup. I also like 1 instead of 3 in the rear, it feels more stable to me.

Thanks

The guy who's setup I copied runs modified and does very well

The only difference between our cars is he use 1B roll centers in the rear of both front and back end

So basically (Ft 0B, 1B),(Rr 0B, 1B) so I guess that creates anti-dive?

His car looks in comparison to mine that it drives straighter when on power

or8ital 02-14-2012 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10329631)
Thanks

The guy who's setup I copied runs modified and does very well

The only difference between our cars is he use 1B roll centers in the rear of both front and back end

So basically (Ft 0B, 1B),(Rr 0B, 1B) so I guess that creates anti-dive?

His car looks in comparison to mine that it drives straighter when on power

Are you also running modified?

Infinite 12th 02-14-2012 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by or8ital (Post 10329781)
Are you also running modified?

Not yet although I usually run 12th modified

I want to get used to working with sedan a little as my TC experience is not as much as 12th

Are there better setups for stock?

An better approach for 17.5?

Thanks

kghills 02-14-2012 08:15 PM


Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10329880)
Not yet although I usually run 12th modified

I want to get used to working with sedan a little as my TC experience is not as much as 12th

Are there better setups for stock?

An better approach for 17.5?

Thanks

I use Keven Hebert's 17.5 Super Stock set up from the 2011 IIC on Jason's TC6.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...iicss_2011.pdf
17.5 Blinky class. Large medium bite carpet track for club racing using Sweep Kitty Rug tires. Just tweek your front and rear camber settings to get it to handle to your liking. On high bite carpet tracks we will run a Jaco blue or Sweep 32. Car is fast and solid.

Keith.

mtbboy 02-14-2012 08:27 PM

Anyone have any experience with the difference between hub toe in and pin angle toe in?
Is there any?

Dave

Infinite 12th 02-14-2012 08:44 PM


Originally Posted by kghills (Post 10329997)
I use Keven Hebert's 17.5 Super Stock set up from the 2011 IIC on Jason's TC6.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...iicss_2011.pdf
17.5 Blinky class. Large medium bite carpet track for club racing using Sweep Kitty Rug tires. Just tweek your front and rear camber settings to get it to handle to your liking. On high bite carpet tracks we will run a Jaco blue or Sweep 32. Car is fast and solid.

Keith.

Thanks I'll check that out :sneaky:

or8ital 02-15-2012 06:07 AM


Originally Posted by Infinite 12th (Post 10329880)
Not yet although I usually run 12th modified

I want to get used to working with sedan a little as my TC experience is not as much as 12th

Are there better setups for stock?

An better approach for 17.5?

Thanks

Yeah generally you would run a different setup for stock vs mod.

ChampRC 02-15-2012 07:18 AM


Originally Posted by JamesL_71 (Post 10327712)
That is going to push the motor, which is one of the heaviest items on the car aside from the batteries, outward away from the chassis centerline.

Companies like AE have done tons of R&D and design/engineering work to get the motor where it is.... I would be very carefuly making a change like that. It is going to change the balance and weight distribution of the car.

Hmm could explain some straight line issues I'm having under full power; car veers left (motor side).


Originally Posted by Steve S (Post 10327795)
I had the same problem with a RevTech motor. You can use a Dremel to extend the flat on the shaft. Try not to get filings in the bearings.

Ah good to see Im not the only one that had this problem...Im a noob with dremel tools etc, what bit did you use?


Originally Posted by cwoods34 (Post 10328639)
Th gold Trinity pinions seem to fit with no issues, as in no Dremeling required. Every other brand needs the flat spot extended on the rotor.

This is what I figured, my hobby shop didnt seem to have any pinions with a shorter shaft than the one I was using...

Anyone one know of any other short shaft pinions they have tried that give significant distance from the belt?

bjanzen 02-15-2012 07:26 AM

I had the same issue...... When i switched to a D3.... Just took a plastic bag and poked the motor shaft through. Keeps the metal shavings out of motor and bearing. Made the flat long enough that any pinion fits now.

BTW....... I just figured out why newer setups don't work. The 6.1 setups make my TC6 pushy. Just went back to the KHebert setup above and WOW! Car drives MUCH BETTER.

tr1kstanc3 02-15-2012 07:45 AM


Originally Posted by bjanzen (Post 10331627)
I had the same issue...... When i switched to a D3.... Just took a plastic bag and poked the motor shaft through. Keeps the metal shavings out of motor and bearing. Made the flat long enough that any pinion fits now.

BTW....... I just figured out why newer setups don't work. The 6.1 setups make my TC6 pushy. Just went back to the KHebert setup above and WOW! Car drives MUCH BETTER.

Which dremel bit did you use to grind the shaft?

bjanzen 02-15-2012 08:38 AM

Just a cut off disc...... Fiber disc..... Held at a low angle

jonu 02-15-2012 08:40 AM

Any suggestions for where I should start gearing wise for a medium sized track? I haven't had a chance to run it since i'm waiting on a couple of parts but I will be using a 10.5t motor. Currently I have the stock spur coupled with a 20 tooth pinion. Does this sound like a decent starting point?

racing_jason 02-15-2012 09:28 AM


Originally Posted by bjanzen (Post 10331627)
I had the same issue...... When i switched to a D3.... Just took a plastic bag and poked the motor shaft through. Keeps the metal shavings out of motor and bearing. Made the flat long enough that any pinion fits now.

BTW....... I just figured out why newer setups don't work. The 6.1 setups make my TC6 pushy. Just went back to the KHebert setup above and WOW! Car drives MUCH BETTER.

the new set ups wont work unless you are using the new arms. the new arms provide alot more mechanical grip then the old arms do.

Jason

racing_jason 02-15-2012 09:32 AM


Originally Posted by mtbboy (Post 10330059)
Anyone have any experience with the difference between hub toe in and pin angle toe in?
Is there any?

Dave

main thing that i find between pin toe and and hub toe is it changes the angle of shock as you shim the pin out to get your toe it moves the shock bottom out making the shock have more lean causing more side bite where the hub toe will increase forward bite and have alot less of a effect on the side bite of the car.

Thanks Jason


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