tabush, where you buy the belt tensioner? what brand? if i buy, the problem can solve? i need to act faster for this issue before the belt fray all my lipo...:lol:

in the attachment is my car with and without battery on it, pls take a look. thanks.

chevtech, do you mind to post your car pic with the belt tansioner for me to take a reference?


below is 3 more picture from the limit of 5 pic per post :sneaky:

one more pic, locate on the left is my custoem DIY spacer to stop the battery moving in, right side is the factory spacer.

www.reflexracing.net

:D:sneaky:

thanks buddy,,,muacks!:lol:

can i use tc6 setup on tc6.1?
will it work the same?

I've ran Tamiya cars in the past and parts quality isn't as good as Tamiya or XRAY cars but in my opinion they're more durable than Tamiya but not as durable as XRAY. As for UPS, they're fast, EASY to drive, and parts are considerably CHEAPER compared to the two. As far as downs, parts are a little sloppy but a little bit of shimming can cure that. Great car over all.

yes you can...

The harder suspension components on the TC6.1 and the changed rear geometry do tighten up how the car feels... more responsive, sets up for the corner more predictably and finishes the corner better.

On the TC6 with the slightly softer components, we'd run a couple of things that you wouldn't see on most other cars... front anti-dive with 6 deg caster to give the front end more response, and usually higher rear roll centre to get more response out of the rear end. You'll notice that with the updated components on the TC6.1 the team driver setups call for a more standard settings... no anti-dive, 4 deg caster, lower rear roll centre, as the key ones.

IMO, the TC6.1 book setup or the team setups would be a better starting point than a good TC6 setup.

good info. thanks

I just finished building my brand new TC6.1 yesterday and I am impressed. I have built from new a TC5 and a TC6 so I have some experience with AE kits. The new parts for the 6.1 are really high quality I have to say, very impressive.

The gear diff goes together well and seems to be built to very high quality tolerances, I doubt very much I will have problems with leaking. Similarly the spool is very nice quality and I love the new outdrives, should not be an issue losing pin pillows at all now, love it.

The new wishbones look and feel much sturdier, I only ever broke 1 wishbone on my TC5 or TC6 and I doubt I will ever break the new 6.1 bones. Also, no reaming required for a bind-free arm. The new hubs and steering blocks are similarly more rugged. The inserts to choose caster and rear hub toe are also very nice, I had my doubts but they really impressed me. The manual says to glue them in but they fit so snug that I will leave them loose, which means I may change them in future if necessary.

The anti roll bars too are very nice, though I am not sure they were really necessary. Still, they look great and are well made.

I still feel like the VCS3 shocks are harder to build right first time but once together they are fine.

The rest of the kit was complete with no missing parts, nothing bent or warped, everything perfect. Great build, took about 5 hours with no issues (except running to the shop for super glue).

Another great job Associated, can't wait to get it on track this season.

Regards,

Neal

I'm also working on a 'shorty' TC based on the TC6, although my project isn't so little as the drivetrain is being replaced to get a tighter weight spread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ect-tc6-c.html

not really...

The front arms on tc6.1 are shorter... the rear arms are longer...

Also the ABC lower shock positions are neither inside or outside holes on the standard TC6 arm...

So although the same setup should be close they will not be the same...

not really...

The front arms on tc6.1 are shorter... the rear arms are longer...

Also the ABC lower shock positions are neither inside or outside holes on the standard TC6 arm...

So although the same setup should be close they will not be the same...

As for the Short Lipo custom cars you don't need to go crazy... Just use a Short Lipo and mount the ESC to the battery side. When you add the needed weight to get to minimum running weight the car is pretty much 50/50 fwd/rr AND left/right... Since this picture i've moved the 30g behind the motor to behind the receiver with good results :cool:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...0&d=1328535201

The tc4 roll bars will not fit on a tc6. The tc4 bars had specific bends to clear the suspension components while the TC6 was designed for a bar that lays flat. If you can rig the tc4 ones into the 6 the bar will sit at an awkward angle and most likely interfere with your upper camber links...