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If the defect is the same on all parts it would be easier to find the problem. They would need to see it to know though. They aren't asking for the part back. They just want to see what's going on. People with a legitimate problem with there part would happily send a picture for the free replacement.
You have to keep in mind, there are those people out there that would claim they had a bad part just so they could get a free spare. AE has every right to ask to see it in my opinion. That being said I recently noticed the bottom screw hole in my bulkhead had been machined too big. I bought the car used. But it hadn't been run when I got it. Still, AE replaced the part free of charge and without question. Took me all of about 5 minutes on the phone and I had a new one in 3 days. |
Originally Posted by bvoltz
(Post 9999147)
Got my new diffs, and found them to be very tight to the point that putting in the pin on outer drive bent the inside washer and cut the big o-ring. Anyone have ideas now to help this?
I have attached a picture to show the items of issue... |
Originally Posted by Odin544
(Post 9999621)
If the defect is the same on all parts it would be easier to find the problem. They would need to see it to know though. They aren't asking for the part back. They just want to see what's going on. People with a legitimate problem with there part would happily send a picture for the free replacement.
You have to keep in mind, there are those people out there that would claim they had a bad part just so they could get a free spare. AE has every right to ask to see it in my opinion. |
Originally Posted by LMRacing
(Post 9999835)
Somebody at a track I went to in AL had the same problem, He had the washers reversed. The big one goes on the inside and the little one goes on the outside. Not saying it was your problem just saying its somthing to check. I almost put mine togeather backwords the first time when I went to do it
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gear diff flaw
2 Attachment(s)
here are pics of my gear diffs installed showing the MINOR mold flaw that everyone is talking about. good or bad.
I feel it is a minor flaw and I will only be concerned if they leak. The Spec-r diffs all leak and everyone has been OK with them. Yes there are things you can do during the build to try to avoid a leak. I built the Associated diffs as the instructions and their maiden voyage is tomorrow night. I will report back in after that. |
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
(Post 10000266)
Can that be true 8C on the bellcrank? So the balls are on the bottom? Does that mean the balls are then on the bottom on the turnbuckles?
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Originally Posted by geeunit1014
(Post 10000352)
The 7/8 is the part the ballstuds screw into. The kit comes with both. On the 8, the ballstuds are slightly farther apart than the 7
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Originally Posted by burgboyz
(Post 10000227)
here are pics of my gear diffs installed showing the MINOR mold flaw that everyone is talking about. good or bad.
I feel it is a minor flaw and I will only be concerned if they leak. The Spec-r diffs all leak and everyone has been OK with them. Yes there are things you can do during the build to try to avoid a leak. I built the Associated diffs as the instructions and their maiden voyage is tomorrow night. I will report back in after that. |
bloody stacker
Originally Posted by captain stacker
(Post 9997180)
woteva u say apostrophe natzi
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Edited the first post of the thread. I can't update the thread title, but I added some new info and a photo of the tc6.1. Adding more info to that post soon.
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6 vs. 6.1
Did anyone post all the differences between the 6 and the 6.1 yet?
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
(Post 10002976)
Did anyone post all the differences between the 6 and the 6.1 yet?
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is there a firm release date for the tc6.1
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Originally Posted by goin2drt
(Post 10002976)
Did anyone post all the differences between the 6 and the 6.1 yet?
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