How is performing maintenance on the TC6?

Hi there if yo don't mind reading a long article, can take a look at this

http://home.scarlet.be/~be067749/58/c2/index.htm

Cheers

Thanks Warbird...... I remember reading that article years ago but I will read it again. Maybe it will sink in differently this time.

Barry

"In general, you could say that the angle of the upper link relative to the A-arm determines where the roll center is with the chassis in its neutral position, and that the length of the upper i determines how much the height of the RC changes as the chassis rolls. A long, parallel link will locate the RC very low, and it will stay very low as the car corners. Hence, the car (well at least that end of the car) will roll a lot. An upper link that's angled down, and very short will locate the RC very high, and it will stay high as the chassis rolls. So the chassis will roll very little. Alternatively, a short, parallel link will make the car roll a lot at first, but as it rolls, the tendency will diminish. So it will roll very fast at first, but it will stop quickly. And a long link that's angled down will reduce the car's tendency to roll initially, but as the chassis rolls it won't make much of a difference anymore.""

So......... I guess I should also be looking at my upper links as well......

What belt tension do you guys run? Wouldn't you want the belts to be free as possible for minimal resistance? What bearings do you recommend for regular?

Which Hex Hub do you use for the HB DCJs?

Thanks

You are most welcome, but one thing still confuse me is that the length and angle will also have effect of camber change. I just can't mix them on how will roll center and camber change affect the car together .... Yet:confused:;)

HB Hex or personally i've the X-Ray (standard offset).
Don't forget to buy the dowel pins that are different from TC6.

Sebastien

hey guys, just wondering if anyone used any thread lock while building their tc6 or 6.1?

This is my first carbon car and when building helicopters with carbon and aluminium parts I always use thread lock for obvious reasons (vibrations).

Is it an issue on a touring car? I don't exactly want screws coming loose on the underside.

It's an issue for the same reason, vibration. Thread lock all metal to metal contacts (screws to bulk heads, shock shaft, out drives etc..)

Personally, I'd never thread lock any of the bulkheads just because they'll be a PITA to take out if you leave it for a long time. It's nowhere near the same level of issue that it would be in Heli's

The only things id reccomened thread locking are the spur gear, lay shaft and the shock piston screws.

Maintenance is heaps easy on the tc6.. Easy to build and set up and its tough.....

You can't go wrong.

All, regarding the gear diffs and the expected "warping" of the mold.

Make sure when you are building it that the flash from the moulding on the smaller housing near the screw holes is flush, best to clean it with an exacto.
I have seen a couple of diffs that have been built with this issue so far and fixed them by just making sure there is no left over flash from the mold.

I would say a 99.9% guarantee.:sweat:

I use around 3mm worth of play on both belts, I usually run the cams on #4 from the loosest setting ie all the way to the front. Though generally this is also to do with feel, kit setup isusually pretty good for most.

I would also suggest running thread lock on most screws that attatch to the bulkheads. I personally use the thread lock sticks and not the liquid. The liguid thread lock will runn along all of the thread and you can put way too much on, this is when it becomes a PITA to remove. With the thread lock stick you can just put a dab on the end. They are around $25-30 but they will last you for decades. (If you do end up putting too much on heat the screw, not the carbon with a little gas torch ie a gas soldering iron, this will melt the thread lock and make it very easy to remove)

As easy as everything else, the main part i replace that is more down to ongoing adjustment is the steering knuckles, roll centre adjustments all the time ( i jump between carpet and ashphalt) You can quickly learn how to have some quick work arounds. Say to replace the drive shaft blade, I remove the outside castor pin, slide it out and you can replace the blade really quickly, 1 screw and 20 seconds.

The Manual does talk about adding some ca glue to the inserts when building. I would suggest getting an old parts packet and putting a few drops on this, then just dipping an edge of the insert into the little pool of ca, this way you don't glue everything and yourself to the hub/caster block, the idea is to be able to move it and adjust if/when needs be.

Hope this helps people out.

I like to have a bit more camber when I put more roll into the car. Maximum forward bite is at the middle of the tire, not the sidewall, so when the car is rolling hard in a turn, not having enough camber seems to remove even more corner speed. In some conditions this can also cause traction roll, because you overwhelm the tire's sidewall and it "gives" out.

With the car on the bench, turn the front wheels and lean the chassis like it would in a turn. This will help you visualize it. Mid-corner you want to maintain your contact patch. Too much camber can cause it to be loose..... since you don't reach the maximum contact patch while the tire is fully loaded, the force overcomes the grip.

Sorry, it's tricky to explain :(