Shock length is really not that important since you are using droop screws. Just make sure your shocks are long enough so that you can adjust the droop settings to the point you need. Shock length adjustment is exactly why droop screws were incorporated into RC car design.

Personally, I run ZERO rebound. This typically generates better grip from my experience. I run outdoor asphalt though and grip is not always optimal. If I was racing indoors on a super grip track, I would suggest about 30%.

One thing that has helped me is using a countersunk 3Racing 10mm screw. It is about 9.7mm long , does not hit the drive shaft and has a little more length than the stock ones. It has kept me from ever stripping any more steering blocks.

Ask them to reverse the track direction so you can use the lefts up. :lol:

Seriously though, longer ball studs or screws is about all you can do. Where are they stripping? Personally, I'm on the same original kit steering knuckles with no issues.

Being at the onroad nats made me a believer. I saw Cuffs, Rick's 13.5 and mod car and Andy, Warren's and DJ's car convinced me to change my ride. I just ordered a TC6!

What parts do I need from the get-go?

Absolutely must have spares :

knuckles
c hubs
rear uprights
dogbone blades
6x10 bearings

Probably want to have, but you most likely wont need :
Shock caps
shock towers
Ball ends
Spare set of arm mounts
arms
hinge pins

Also +1 to longer screws in the c-hubs. if you run any shims under the ballstud, get the 10mm ones.

you will not be disapointed the car is awesome.:nod:
Jerry l and matt remicks car was awesome too they just had some bad luck or they would have had better runs

yeah warren! your car looked good all weekend!:nod:

My car is pretty much bone stock. I just replaced all the plastic roll center spacers with the aluminum r5 bulkhead shims, and the hing pin shims with the aluminum ball stud washers. It helps take away a lot of the movement of the roll centers on impact. Also I put 6 degree caster blocks on the car and had to get longer screws for the roll center mounts. Any extra parts would be pretty much what everyone already said. Good luck with the car!

Craig your car was great also just needed the 1000cst earlier in the quals and you would have done a lot better:nod:

warren the 1000cst in the rear diff def made a huge difference. i still had too much steering and grip up front and my rear was loose on power! i was fighting this all weekend! i leant my reflex 15.5 to keven hebert and probably could of used em up front or 16.5 which would of given me more grip in the rear! time to wrench on my car!! overall the car was good but it definately wasnt as good as yours:nod:

AE contact
 

What would be the best way to contact AE for quicker service (call or email)? When I built my car I had one bulkhead hole that was not tapped, luckily I had an m3 tap. Now two weeks later I decided to install anti-roll bars and low and behold a hole in the bulkhead for mounting the clamp is not tapped. This hole, however, had been drilled after anodizing, unlike the other one. Unfortunately for me it's not an m3, it's an m2. Was going to buy one but it costs 23 bucks. I'm sure I read somewhere in this thread what the best way was but at that time had no need for it.

Thanks, Gary

The quickest service is to call them, and then call them two days later to ensure that it got sent out. It's hit or miss with them. I had the same issue, with two different kits. One part was sent out the same day I called, the other took 3 follow up calls and 2 emails and three weeks to get a replacement part. BOTH were supposed to have been in stock. The last one they claimed that they sent one out every time I called. ONLY the last one showed up.

Thanks for the info

Gary

What the best way to secure the lipo to a tc6?

Good Quality Battery tape...