Turnbuckles
 

Ae #1402 (1.375") is what I bought. I do know they work in the 1 & 3 positions, haven't tried in other positions.

lipo mounts ..
 

has anyone had any problems with the screws pulling throu the chassis on the lipo mounts , someone told me last night that some of the early kits had issues with this ( as the chassis was drilled / counter sunk to much , losing too much material ??? ) i got over it for last nights meeting by moving the lipo to the rearward position , but didnt like it as much , so will order another chassis :)

has anyone else had any problems ...?? apart from that im loving it !! :nod:

Never heard of this one, but if the chassis is visibly countersunk too much (and this is visible in an undamaged area), contact AE and they'll probably sort you out with a new chassis. AE customer support is excellent.

Just got a new TC6 and am in the process of building it and I have a few questions. All of my turnbuckle eyelets are realy tight, I noticed that they all have a little number on them what is this? and are they supposed to snap on a certain way? Also have a question about a setup that I saw on the associated site by Keven Hebert, I have heard from some of the local guys that some of the setups that he has listed work well at our track most of it is pretty clear to me but don't understand the shock piston set up it says 1,1,1.5 3hole the pistons that came with my car are labeled 1 2 and 3 maybe some one could shead some light on this for.
Thanks:)

Regarding the turnbuckle eyelets, simple take some needle nose pliers and give the eyelets a little squeeze while installed on the ballstuds... if you squeeze them in a couple different places they should free up nicely. The turnbuckles should move freely so that they do not bind up the suspension movement.

Regarding the pistons: They are custom drilled pistons, using the 1/10 blank pistons (# 6463) and a 1.0 mm drill bit and a 1.5 mm drill bit. Two holes drilled out with the 1.0 mm bit and one hole with the 1.5 mm bit.

If that sounds a little too involved, there are a number of setups that sucessfully employ the use of the the stock #2 associated pistons to good effect.

Hope this helps!

Hi. I got a TC6 and ran it about a couple times at our local track. Since spare parts are a bit hard to come by in my current location, I have been purchasing online either thru HK or US hobby shops and shipped to me. So far I have the following spares:
steering block, caster block, caster block bushing, rear hub, front and rear arms, 64 & 48p spurs, turnbuckle eyelets, CVA blades, and inner hinge pins

I was wondering, aside from these parts that I already got, what other parts should I keep handy? Thanks.

Is this ok?
 

I've build the last week my new tc6. I've had some problems and now i want to know if it's normal:

1. The ballstud form the rear hub touch the rear shock tower if the shock is complete inside. I've build the standard-setup inside with 3°. If i want to build 1° or 2° inside then it touch the tower complete.

2. If i build the steering crank to position B i don't have enough steering because the turnbuckle touch the upperdeck. so i changed to position A. Before there was only 15° steering.

3. The shock isn't long enough because if i change the back shocks to the inner hole i can minimum build a droop of 6.5 but i want to have 4 for lower traction tracks.

So i hope you can understand what i mean and maybe can help me?

You have it all covered here already, maybe a couple of bearings and screws.
why 64 and 48 spurs? these are not the number of teeth but the size of pitch, usually you use one or the other, otherwise you need to have a lot of different pinions.
You might still break something else but with your spares you will cover all the possible "ordinary"breakages.

Hi Antimaster

Well i am trying to understand, but it does not make much sense, as none of your mentionned problems seems possible if you built your car properly.
Can I suggest that you take your manual again and go over all your problems one at a time, the shocks are definitely long enough, maybe you are putting the steering post in the wrong hole on bellcrank post insert and your droop will depend on which arm mounts and position you are using.

hope this helps

Not sure about the first two but if you screw the ball cup all the way onto the shock shaft they shock may not extend far enough depending on the set-up you use. I think Keven or somebody posted the shock length Keven uses. These shocks have a lot of travel, so if you are just compressing them all the way on the bench I wouldn't be surprised if things are hitting the shock tower under full compression. I doubt in normal operation the shocks would ever compress that far where interference would be an issue. Like one poster suggested, double-check your build and make sure you have it right.

Do you recommend the 1.00" and the 1.375" turnbuckles? It's what I currently have in my shopping cart on Amain.

I am running position (2) in front using a 1.33" #1401 and it's just right. I can get about 1.5* camber max ... anything more and i'll need a shorter turnbuckle...

In the rear I use the same #1401 1.33" and running position (3A) with plenty of engagement for 1-1.5* camber and room for a lot more negative camber...

Steering i use the #1403 1.65" 8B on the rack and 2A on the knuckle/center screw

ECS's on a TC6
 

Does anyone sell ecs driveshafts for the tc6 or has anyone gotten another brand working. I had heard a rumor that some people use xray c hubs and then use xray ecs's

no need for them the stock ones work great but if you want to you can get the litemodz or hot bodies dcj's with the hot bodies you need a different bearing.

Thank you Olly986 for the feedback. At least I know Im on the right track with the spares. I decided to have both 64 (106t) & 48 (87 & 80t) pitch spurs since I have a lot of pinions to match with it. I have no idea of the quality of AE's spurs and am afraid I might strip the 64s and at least I can easily shift to the 48s. :nod: