20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
05-24-2011, 12:29 AM
#2701
Vern,
Will you have extra hinge blocks at Reedy? If so, I'd like to catch up with you on Thursday to pick up a set from you.
I'm new to the TC6 and this was one of the first things I was considering To make myself. Yours will save a lot of work.
Thanks
Will you have extra hinge blocks at Reedy? If so, I'd like to catch up with you on Thursday to pick up a set from you.
I'm new to the TC6 and this was one of the first things I was considering To make myself. Yours will save a lot of work.
Thanks
05-24-2011, 03:11 AM
#2703
i see a few running 3a fwd and 0b rwd on front arm is that giving anti drive or kick up
05-24-2011, 08:16 AM
#2704
I used that Keven Hebert setup as a guide to how much movement, plus looking at Xray blocks they go the .75mm each direction as well. I measured out the difference from the A to B hole and then the 0-3 blocks and came up with .021 anti-dive, the new blocks will go 30% + beyond that while staying mounted to the B hole.
Took some time after building the set gage to re check my initial build which was after a long day. In the rear if you use the factory C shaped plastic shims as I had, those shims take on a bit of a form, and actually squeeze a slight angle into themselves. I could loosen the pin blocks and back screws off and still had troubles moving them. The fronts didn't do this, so looking at the difference being the shim I replaced the plastic shims with hard washers and this made them move mush easier. Personally I never liked seeing the gap of the block bottoms using washers as the seat contact area is about 50% of the block which is an eye sore for me....maybe thats just me though.
One of the goals was to make this direct bolt on with all stock parts including stock pins. I had a spare pack of pins and trying to determine my bore diameter was ugly using those as a guide. They were out of round up to .0015, and size varied almost .002....way more then any decent dowel quality pin should be, by apx. 10X
. thats another story for another day, I'll just say the blocks are .001 over for 3mm dowel for slip fit, and the set screw will take care of the remaining difference in pins. On the 0 set gage. I changed my mind in selling those, they are only useful once on the initial build to set correct, once mounted they do no good...BUT a thin shim set / feeler gage will tell you exactly where each block is in relation to chassis. This is good practice anyway since the slightest bend in a screw will move them (or any block) dramatically. My stock blocks with 3 race days and 1 practice were out .018 at the worst, this is almost the equivalent of the Keven H anti dive just in slop and mis-alignment. so I believe this is one real good reason to check these, I also believe this is a huge reason why 2 cars with the exact same setup can handle different...only now there is a way to deal with this.
Lastly people are excited by another tuning option and solid mounts, rightfully so, but I'm not taking any money until these have some track time in and they are just making it out this week for that, so patients please. My car is an hour away from the track and I plan to hit that tomarrow, and I have the heartbreaking task of beating the crap out of it and trying to find a flaw in the system, honestly this makes my stomach turn as I took pride in this build.
7 sets went to Reedy and they are all accounted for none for sale, sorry. On the plus side my day employer gave me time off to build more so I may have them in supply past the 15 sets mid next week...we'll see.
05-24-2011, 08:20 AM
#2705
I forgot to mention that my car is pretty balanced side to side. Without getting into the #'s, its just a 'tic-tac' heavier on the batt side. And with the car all suited n booted, it weighs in at 1345 grams. Here's pics (provided by the HTC Thunderbolt)....
Paint provided by Roly
Paint provided by Roly
05-24-2011, 08:08 PM
#2708
Dial-a-Grip Severe Force testing Complete!!
Weather for later in the week looked bad so I took half the day off and hit the track.....HARD!.
Good news and Bad...Starting with the Bad... 6 full 10 minutes packs--pulled 1 Speedmind wheel right thru the hex, busted 2 blades, destroyed 1 outdrive as the result, ruined body, and the grand finally that ended the day...a busted servo saver. Twice on the lid, twice over the pipe, and prob. 20+ impacts from all angles.
Had to be done, and I guarantee nobody at Reedy that I gave to test these will put their cars thru what I did today. Just one of these runs would have severly loosened the stock blocks, no doubt in my mind.
Now the good starting with the TC6 after what I put it through it did awesome, and no broken plastic parts (other then blades).
The Dial-a-Grip lock blocks were checked after every round, They were checked for loosening and developing play from twist, and they were checked for movement along the slot axis and changing the roll center angle. ZERO, and I mean ABSOLUTE ZERO movement....!! You can quickly check if they moved up along the slot axis but simply checking the small amount of tension in the set screw. If they moved there would no longer be tension and you'd feel it. Then they were double checked with a dial indicator on the PitBoss, and confirmed... absolute dead locked and solid.
We have a winner here coming real soon. Just waiting for feedback from the
other elite test animals on running with various setups to ship the batch 1 parts, and batch 2 is in motion.
Weather for later in the week looked bad so I took half the day off and hit the track.....HARD!.
Good news and Bad...Starting with the Bad... 6 full 10 minutes packs--pulled 1 Speedmind wheel right thru the hex, busted 2 blades, destroyed 1 outdrive as the result, ruined body, and the grand finally that ended the day...a busted servo saver. Twice on the lid, twice over the pipe, and prob. 20+ impacts from all angles.
Had to be done, and I guarantee nobody at Reedy that I gave to test these will put their cars thru what I did today. Just one of these runs would have severly loosened the stock blocks, no doubt in my mind.
Now the good starting with the TC6 after what I put it through it did awesome, and no broken plastic parts (other then blades).
The Dial-a-Grip lock blocks were checked after every round, They were checked for loosening and developing play from twist, and they were checked for movement along the slot axis and changing the roll center angle. ZERO, and I mean ABSOLUTE ZERO movement....!!
You can quickly check if they moved up along the slot axis but simply checking the small amount of tension in the set screw. If they moved there would no longer be tension and you'd feel it. Then they were double checked with a dial indicator on the PitBoss, and confirmed... absolute dead locked and solid.We have a winner here coming real soon. Just waiting for feedback from the
other elite test animals on running with various setups to ship the batch 1 parts, and batch 2 is in motion.
05-25-2011, 01:47 AM
#2709
good work verndog hope the time you put in pays off i think your on a good thing here and cant wait to get a set downunder to play with well done champ
Last edited by jay m; 05-25-2011 at 02:03 AM.
05-25-2011, 10:18 AM
#2711
TC6
WTT MY TC6 Factory Team for a SC8E
text me @ 951-514-6695 its on craigslist
Menifee Ca
text me @ 951-514-6695 its on craigslist
Menifee Ca
05-26-2011, 08:06 AM
#2713
I'm in the process of sending out invoices to those that pre arranged the Batch 1 parts via email. Mid next week we'll have another 440 ready to go, and yes I'll open up shipping to my buds in Australia and UK as they are great customers and love the TC5 and TC6 there.
Update: Batch 1 Sold Out, Those that received invoices are still covered and reserved.
Update: Batch 1 Sold Out, Those that received invoices are still covered and reserved.
Last edited by Verndog; 05-26-2011 at 11:26 AM.
05-26-2011, 02:29 PM
#2715