20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
Got a little morning push from lower temps??....1/2 turn "kickup", check droop...and go grap your morning hot dog. 
05-21-2011, 10:37 PM
#2672
After running a few race weekends I found what others have noticed, a weakness in the arm mount blocks. They easily pivot, have excessive play, with fit between bushing and block, then again at pin. Mine was slop free at assembly but even the tightest I could get them would still move. Others have had the entire arm come loose. I set out to solve this, and as I posted several weeks ago adding a set screw to the block at pin stopped it, but the blocks are too weak to hold the screw.
So onto the REAL fix. I have designed a block that solves the problem, but the quandary was how many blocks to build for tuning options. This could get real expensive fast. So....after long thought, and some drafting work I have resolved that issue and also added a very nice tuning option. I named it Dial-a-Grip because it is just that. A single block that moves the Xray equivalent +/-.75 (.030) mm each direction from the 0 block mount location. Now you can dial a little to full anti / pro dive and anti / pro squat with a single screw adjustment just like droop. This will be fast and handy for quick testing or for changing track temps as you can really fine tune the amount. The travel goes 30% beyond the Kevin Hebert setup that use A3 anti dive in front so it should be all the travel needed for the current popular B0 mount location. Also, they are 1mm thicker per side so standard setup of 1mm shim is NOT needed.
I have several sets going to Reedy for further testing but am entirely confident this IS the cats meow!
These sets are already reserved so please don't ask as I have very limited quantities. There will be a few sets extra I'll put up next week, but thats it for now until I can make the production run.
Don't ask how much...they cost me a bundle to make, and I'm looking at another way to tool to save machine time...for now thats just a small hurdle.
Here is a link to the design followed with pics...welcome to Dial-a-Grip.
http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK.pdf
So onto the REAL fix. I have designed a block that solves the problem, but the quandary was how many blocks to build for tuning options. This could get real expensive fast. So....after long thought, and some drafting work I have resolved that issue and also added a very nice tuning option. I named it Dial-a-Grip because it is just that. A single block that moves the Xray equivalent +/-.75 (.030) mm each direction from the 0 block mount location. Now you can dial a little to full anti / pro dive and anti / pro squat with a single screw adjustment just like droop. This will be fast and handy for quick testing or for changing track temps as you can really fine tune the amount. The travel goes 30% beyond the Kevin Hebert setup that use A3 anti dive in front so it should be all the travel needed for the current popular B0 mount location. Also, they are 1mm thicker per side so standard setup of 1mm shim is NOT needed.
I have several sets going to Reedy for further testing but am entirely confident this IS the cats meow!
These sets are already reserved so please don't ask as I have very limited quantities. There will be a few sets extra I'll put up next week, but thats it for now until I can make the production run.
Don't ask how much...they cost me a bundle to make, and I'm looking at another way to tool to save machine time...for now thats just a small hurdle.
Here is a link to the design followed with pics...welcome to Dial-a-Grip.
http://www.ppdbillet.com/TC6-LOCK-BLOCK.pdf
05-22-2011, 03:22 AM
#2673
Vern, they are tidy!
What sort of weight are we talking in comparison to stock?
What sort of weight are we talking in comparison to stock?
05-22-2011, 06:51 AM
#2674
Hi ihave a question on how they work, I can see how they clamp the screw at the lowest setting, however, what about the play when they are in the highest setting ie-75 etc what locks them in place?
05-22-2011, 10:21 AM
#2675
What do people think about blue anodize vs stock awesome machined billet finish? Worth the extra $2.00 per set or so, keep in mind once the wheels are on these don't show ALL that much anyway.
Update, I just built the new tooling and machine cycle time is way down now.
I'm thinking I can do these with stainless set screws and washers for about $28.00 per set of 8. You will never need blocks or bushings again, and I'm using the toughest aerospace aged aluminum money can buy. Also, Im building a optional set gage that you insert into slot and zero all 8 blocks spot on. This will account for the ubber anal, and also assure any small difference in set screw length doesn't effect location. That said, I'm checking set screw lengths at random for assurance of excellent C/L location. Try getting all that out of China.
05-22-2011, 10:34 AM
#2676
question: 3r battery straps tape will work?
05-22-2011, 10:55 AM
#2678
That said, I still took mine after mounting up tight...and banged the crap out of it straight up then only possible direction it could move...dented the arm a few places I hit so hard, and checking with dial indicator mounted onto PitBoss--ZERO movement.
Even so, I will further test 12 sets over the upcoming week for 100% instead of 99.5% certainty.
One last word, much can be said for holding very close tolerance with size and position to discourage movement. Sloppy work opens sizes up to fit, but quality work holds closer fit and smaller sizes, reducing slop and movement. A little more costly up front, but way better products with less effort down the road.
05-22-2011, 11:24 AM
#2679
Not much at all. Weighing the stock 0 block WITH the bushing I get only 5.5 grams difference. The slot helps reduce material weight also.
What do people think about blue anodize vs stock awesome machined billet finish? Worth the extra $2.00 per set or so, keep in mind once the wheels are on these don't show ALL that much anyway.
Update, I just built the new tooling and machine cycle time is way down now. I'm thinking I can do these with stainless set screws and washers for about $28.00 per set of 8. You will never need blocks or bushings again, and I'm using the toughest aerospace aged aluminum money can buy.
Also, Im building a optional set gage that you insert into slot and zero all 8 blocks spot on. This will account for the ubber anal, and also assure any small difference in set screw length doesn't effect location. That said, I'm checking set screw lengths at random for assurance of excellent C/L location. Try getting all that out of China.
What do people think about blue anodize vs stock awesome machined billet finish? Worth the extra $2.00 per set or so, keep in mind once the wheels are on these don't show ALL that much anyway.
Update, I just built the new tooling and machine cycle time is way down now.
I'm thinking I can do these with stainless set screws and washers for about $28.00 per set of 8. You will never need blocks or bushings again, and I'm using the toughest aerospace aged aluminum money can buy. Also, Im building a optional set gage that you insert into slot and zero all 8 blocks spot on. This will account for the ubber anal, and also assure any small difference in set screw length doesn't effect location. That said, I'm checking set screw lengths at random for assurance of excellent C/L location. Try getting all that out of China.
count me in whether they are blue or not i want them
05-22-2011, 11:34 AM
#2680
Not much at all. Weighing the stock 0 block WITH the bushing I get only 5.5 grams difference. The slot helps reduce material weight also.
What do people think about blue anodize vs stock awesome machined billet finish? Worth the extra $2.00 per set or so, keep in mind once the wheels are on these don't show ALL that much anyway.
Update, I just built the new tooling and machine cycle time is way down now. I'm thinking I can do these with stainless set screws and washers for about $28.00 per set of 8. You will never need blocks or bushings again, and I'm using the toughest aerospace aged aluminum money can buy.
Also, Im building a optional set gage that you insert into slot and zero all 8 blocks spot on. This will account for the ubber anal, and also assure any small difference in set screw length doesn't effect location. That said, I'm checking set screw lengths at random for assurance of excellent C/L location. Try getting all that out of China.
What do people think about blue anodize vs stock awesome machined billet finish? Worth the extra $2.00 per set or so, keep in mind once the wheels are on these don't show ALL that much anyway.
Update, I just built the new tooling and machine cycle time is way down now.
I'm thinking I can do these with stainless set screws and washers for about $28.00 per set of 8. You will never need blocks or bushings again, and I'm using the toughest aerospace aged aluminum money can buy. Also, Im building a optional set gage that you insert into slot and zero all 8 blocks spot on. This will account for the ubber anal, and also assure any small difference in set screw length doesn't effect location. That said, I'm checking set screw lengths at random for assurance of excellent C/L location. Try getting all that out of China.
And I've got stainless 'accents' on the ride as is.....keep mine billet dude 
BTW Kevin....are ya gonna make parts for my S411 as well?
......just kidding
05-22-2011, 02:38 PM
#2685
