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Old 05-06-2011, 07:26 AM   #2491
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Originally Posted by JRXS_chris View Post
It's a mod you must do yourself. 5 minutes with a pillar drill or Dremel!
Do you have a pic of what you are talking about? I am interested in the same.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:27 AM   #2492
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Are you aware that SS screws are less than half as strong as the 12.9 high tensile screws included with the TC6? I wouldn't use them for anything load bearing. Actually I wouldn't use them at all; they're just as heavy but more prone to bend and have the heads strip.

12.9 Yield Strength = 1100
SS Yield Strength = 520
Personally I would not bet that those heat treat specs and strengths are anything certain coming out of China. 2nd, if you use the kit screws in the chassis plate you will have dificulty removing tweak as the chassis will rock on the protruding bolt heads. What can happen with with carbon steel screws that will not with stainless is the heads will sheer off far easier (more brittle) instead of just bend, making fixing the issue a can of worms. Also, not sure where you get your numbers from but they are not 2x as strong. From nuts and bolts.com

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A common question is whether stainless steel is stronger that a grade 5 or grade 8 bolt. Stainless commonly comes in grades 18.8 (304) or T316. Stainless steel bolts are rated for corrosion resistance. Bolt strength is rated in PSI (pounds per square inch). A stainless steel bolt has the same PSI rating as a grade 5 bolt (125,000 PSI). A grade 8 bolt has a stronger rating with a PSI of 150,000.
Also it depends on the type of stainless steel used. For instance a high strength 17-4 stainless bolt is actually stronger then a grade 8.
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Last edited by Verndog; 05-06-2011 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:45 AM   #2493
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I didn't wanna delve into that convo just like I won't go into the weight convo. Thanks Kev
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Old 05-06-2011, 02:09 PM   #2494
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Default New setup posted

I have posted Keven Hebert's Xray Challenge setup from West Coast R/C Raceway. For the racing the Reedy Race of Champions later this month, this is the setup that the team drivers will begin with. It should also be good on most high-traction surfaces.

TC6 Keven Hebert setup
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:14 AM   #2495
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hi all i got a 10.5T brushless motor for my tc6 and i tried to use kawada 64p spur and pinion gears but i fount that they dont really fit, if i am to use 48P gears which brand and how many gears for spur and pinion would u guys suggest?
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:24 AM   #2496
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Originally Posted by Molala4 View Post
hi all i got a 10.5T brushless motor for my tc6 and i tried to use kawada 64p spur and pinion gears but i fount that they dont really fit, if i am to use 48P gears which brand and how many gears for spur and pinion would u guys suggest?
RW, Xray and Associated spurs fits. For boosted esc the stock spur (87T) is perfect. For notiming I would take a 75T spur....

As for pinion size this really depends on the FDR needed at your track, for a boosted 10.5 motor the FDR should be around 8.0-7.5, for no-timing a good starting point is around 6.0-5.5 (those are just starting points, the exact FDR depends on track size, motor/esc brand, esc settings, etc.)

Last edited by Fastfreddy74; 05-07-2011 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:04 AM   #2497
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Originally Posted by ira View Post
Drill the center of the out-drive with a 1/4" drill bit to accept the bone or use a milling machine, sand the blades a little and your good to go.
Thanx for the help guys! Also most of the guys are running around 20wt in the gear diff for 17.5 and 13.5 blinky! Should i start there or 50wt! Thanx again!
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:11 AM   #2498
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what's the story behind the pistons? don't understand it
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Old 05-07-2011, 10:16 AM   #2499
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what's the story behind the pistons? don't understand it
It's a 3 hole piston, 2 holes are drilled to 1mm and one to 1.5mm

Here is a comparison chart between various pistons

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AE/Losi Pistons Chart

54 = blue (1.4) x3 = 4.61811 mm^2

55 = orange (1.32) x3 = 4.10541 mm^2

56 = red (1.2) x3 = 3.39291 mm^2

1 - 1- 1.5 = 3.3378 mm^2

AE#1 = 54 (1.4) x2 = 3.07874 mm^2

57 = black (1.1) x3 = 2.85096 mm^2

AE#2 = 55 (1.32) x 2 = 2.73694 mm^2

60 = natural (1.0) x3 = 2.35617 mm^2

AE#3 = 3/64" (1.19m) x2 = 2.22438 mm^2
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Old 05-07-2011, 08:29 PM   #2500
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which brand of pinion gear can be used in TC6? tried kawada seems to long....
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:04 PM   #2501
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which brand of pinion gear can be used in TC6? tried kawada seems to long....
I'm running Robinson Pro Alum. hard coated with grub screw toward the outside end of shaft.
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Old 05-07-2011, 11:33 PM   #2502
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I had a run-a-way and now my car is tweeked i changed only one aluminium bearing holder but car still seams tweeked. Can the carbon fiber chassis be tweeked ? or will it just break.
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:11 AM   #2503
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I had a run-a-way and now my car is tweeked i changed only one aluminium bearing holder but car still seams tweeked. Can the carbon fiber chassis be tweeked ? or will it just break.
Yes the chassis can tweak without breaking, but likely you have a bulkhead or motormount, or possibly a bent screw somewhere. You'll need to loosen everything from the bottom (also top deck) and check that it goes back to flat, then tighten 1 thing at a time and keep checking to find the problem. Also tighten the top deck last, it can also cause the tweak.
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Old 05-08-2011, 12:44 AM   #2504
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Originally Posted by Verndog View Post
I'm running Robinson Pro Alum. hard coated with grub screw toward the outside end of shaft.
would the end side of the gear rub against the front belt? this is what is happening to me... i have already lowered the front spool...it is still the case..........i am using kawada 46 pinion and speedmind 100 spur
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Old 05-08-2011, 05:56 AM   #2505
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Is it just me, or does the Protoform LTC-R 190mm body not fit this chassis?

I just finished painting mine,and its too short in the wheelbase..

Lucky i had a Speed 6 lying around.
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