Lol. I've hard r1 HW Reedy Tekin Orion. Same. Can't tell difference. In off-road

Side by side comparison of the J-Zero to the P-Zero:
- J rear wing sits lower than the P but has a more aggressive angle of attack.
- P hood is slung lower than the J(had to raise my body posts)
- J is roughly 10-12 grams lighter. The P has thicker lexan.

HW justock does just fine, or pro if you really think you need it (you don't for 21.5). Use a fan on motor and ESC, pretty much any ESC will work fine e for USGT.

The only reason to buy a better ESC is if you think you might move up to TC stock or modified especially. If it's just for USGT, go cheap with Justock, works great for me for 3 seasons, no issues.

The cheapest option is to just stick with their R1

Folks, I need some help. I've got a 3racing Sakura Advance EVO2k18 I'm running in USGT (say that 3 times fast!) and I just can't seem to get the tippy-ness out of this car. In 25.5 TC, the same exact car, same setup with thinner rear diff, same nearly everything except body and tires, and it has no traction roll issues at all. My USGT doesn't have the same steering as the 25.5 TC, given the better TC tires, but it still tips like crazy to the point where it goes up and skies on the front lip of my PFM10 body and makes driving competitively when the grip comes up on the black carpet impossible. I've got the fronts glued all the way till I'm touching the outside most tread lines... like literally CA on the flat part of the tire touching the tread lines, and I still have a tip-tastic car.

A fellow racer tells me my spec tires are ballooned in the front, but they're only 2-3 races old! I put a new set on, and it reduced it, but the car still does it.

I'm kinda at my wits end here with USGT. Are the tires just this bad? I literally just verified I'm running the same down stop (travel/droop) on both of these cars, same camber gain, camber, ride height... everything except rear diff because I need a thicker diff in the USGT for corner exit.

HELP. This is nuts. My next go-to is going to be going down in front camber and camber gain (longer links), perhaps some down stop changes.

The TIPY-NESS is the rear inside tire coming up on corners and my car ski-riding the front of my body, and it's just completely dumb.

Suggestions welcome!

INSIDE of the rears? Wha?

So what's everyone running for front and rear camber with the USGT tires?

You can try widen your front or rear track width depending on which end is causing it.

Im glad you posted this because i had the same issues yesterday with my T4 18. High speed sweeper it would slow roll on me at apex if i stayed on power. All other corners the back tire lifted. if i touched a track dot in a corner i would roll. I already had a pretty soft car compared to my can am set up. 2.5 front springs/2.6 rear. 1.3 front sway bar/1.2 rear. Wide track width in rear. 5.2/5.4 ride height and 5.2/4.4 droop. I went down to 2.3 rear springs and it didn't really help. I was/am at a loss. so hopefully some good suggestions come out of the conversation as i'll be looking to try something different. Im thinking its a roll center issue for me.

After thinking about this for a bit, I think it might be two things:

1. Effective increase in suspension travel due to USGT tire height "ballooning" as the tire rotates.
   1. Perhaps this requires a reduction in travel, i.e. a higher down stop value
   2. The goal would be to, under power, get similar effective suspension up-travel capabilities as my TC.
2. Too much negative camber for shape of the USGT tire.
   1. I have -2 on my USGT just like my TC, mainly because every TC setup I've ever seen has -2.
   2. Based on the shape of the tire, the effective contact patch doesn't allow the sidewalls to reach the carpet, and thus the glue is somewhat useless.
      1. Standing the tire up more (0 or -1) camber might allow the tire to contact the glued sidewall and slide instead of grab the "round contact patch forever" part of the tire.

Thoughts?

Without knowing your full set-up, I'm just giving you some general suggestions to try which work for me when any of my cars feel tippy:
Lower your roll centers all around the car. This is achieved by getting your arms closer to the chassis by lowering the pivot pins. Alternatively, you can add shims to the inboard side of the upper links. Lowering the arms gives the most drastic result.
Soften the front oil in your dampers.
Lengthen the upper links to decrease camber gain.
Add static weight to the front of the car.
If your rear wheels are coming up in the corners, it could mean you don't have enough rear droop in the car.

So, went to the track tonight and managed to get the tippy out of my USGT and was left with a VERY competitive setup. So happy about that. So, I think the catalyst for this all was the tires getting ballooned, and the LHS is out of them, so I'm kinda SOL unless I order somewhere same week, so I HAD to come up with a setup that worked with the tires like this. I think one of the biggest things was realizing how much more up travel the car has with these tires when they're ballooned.

In any case, what I did was try all ranges of camber and downstop (travel). I also tried lengthening my front camber link and different amounts of camber. The biggest effect was the front camber by far. The droop/downstop/travel (whatever you wanna call it, I measure it as downstop) was significant, but never removed it entirely. That took camber changes. I tried so much down stop that I ended up at 3mm front ride height with preload... so yeah, didn't matter how much I did, it never totally removed it, but it contributed greatly to the end product.

What I ended up with is going from 5/4 down stop to 7/6 (2mm less travel) and 0 degrees camber all the way around. I was able to match my best fast lap ever with this setup. The car is dialed now. I lost a bit of turn-in grab, but then again, that's what was causing issues. I went with some drag brake and was able to get right back to where I should be (or faster) by doing less pitching the car into the corner and more smooth flowing arcs with the drag brake. Normally I never use drag brake, but this layout is so tight and slow that getting the right trail brake every corner is impossible.

Wayne