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Originally Posted by Panther6834
(Post 15437023)
BEST paint job on the AGATA that I've seen (so far)...I'm jealous. I do have to ask, where did you get the 'Lamborghini' stickers/decals (on rear wing, as well as to the left/right of the engine), and the Lambo bull sticker/decal. Also are they stickers attached to the outside of the body (after painting), or are they decals attached to the body from the inside (before painting)? Lastly, if you could PM the info, I'd greatly appreciate it.
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https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...851af2c33.jpeg
Originally Posted by Josh-n-ya
(Post 15437247)
Brahahahaha!!! 😂 |
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Originally Posted by team green
(Post 15437090)
A buddy of mine ( Josh-n-ya) told me my Agata looks like a stretched out Prius. Now that’s all I see.😡😡😡 |
Originally Posted by team green
(Post 15437500)
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87
(Post 15432559)
Of course.....Check these numbers out...Any other 21.5t numbers out there????
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...1a7ec7e321.jpg |
Opinions For ESC in USGT are you using a higher amp esc? I'm using a r1 80amp considering 160a or Michmore. |
Originally Posted by Azsmartbet
(Post 15441182)
Opinions For ESC in USGT are you using a higher amp esc? I'm using a r1 80amp considering 160a or Michmore. |
Originally Posted by trigger
(Post 15441183)
80 amp is just fine for 21.5. You will not see a speed advantage when moving to a 160.
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On resistance matters. On resistance and maximum current capacity are only tangentially related. There was a time... where r/c car action actually tested that sort of thing.
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I mounted an amp meter in a VTA car once to evaluate the need for higher "C" rating on batteries. I did dead stop burn outs on the street and also had it in the car for practice laps. Result was about 12 amp average draw on the track and about 22 amp draw peak for hard acceleration from a dead stop. I don't remember my gearing at the time but it was probably between 3.3 and 3.8 FDR. Figure about 15% more draw for a 21.5 and you would be under 14 amps average on the track and just over 25 amps peak. So no need for a higher rated speed control based on amperage.
HOWEVER, higher rated speed controls tend to have lower internal resistance and less voltage drop. So basing your decision on a lower voltage drop rather than the amperage rating makes more sense. I doubt there is any sort of industry standard for the numbers manufacturers publish about their products. You can use them as guidelines but you would have to setup some sort of controlled experiment to actually compare different speed controls. |
Originally Posted by beemerfan
(Post 15441373)
I mounted an amp meter in a VTA car once to evaluate the need for higher "C" rating on batteries. I did dead stop burn outs on the street and also had it in the car for practice laps. Result was about 12 amp average draw on the track and about 22 amp draw peak for hard acceleration from a dead stop. I don't remember my gearing at the time but it was probably between 3.3 and 3.8 FDR. Figure about 15% more draw for a 21.5 and you would be under 14 amps average on the track and just over 25 amps peak. So no need for a higher rated speed control based on amperage.
HOWEVER, higher rated speed controls tend to have lower internal resistance and less voltage drop. So basing your decision on a lower voltage drop rather than the amperage rating makes more sense. I doubt there is any sort of industry standard for the numbers manufacturers publish about their products. You can use them as guidelines but you would have to setup some sort of controlled experiment to actually compare different speed controls. |
Originally Posted by Azsmartbet
(Post 15441377)
I wonder if the lower heat alone is worth it
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Originally Posted by Nerobro
(Post 15441366)
On resistance matters. On resistance and maximum current capacity are only tangentially related. There was a time... where r/c car action actually tested that sort of thing.
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I think most higher Amperage ESCs also have higher brake capacity. |
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