Originally Posted by John Wallace2 (Post 13456978)

Did anyone help you? That would be on the high side of what I would let my motors go (with a fan). Experts don't agree on the max temp for motors. Some say in the 160 -170 range others in the 170 to 180 range. but probably all would agree that 185 is pushing it. Motor timing gives you more RPM & AMP Draw and more AMP draw gives you heat. Is there any way to check the amp draw at the timing you have set in the motor (or just check the ESC temp and or check to see how much battery you consume during and calculate the amp draw)? If ESC wasn't hot too, do you have to run that FDR for your class? These brushless motors don't like to over rev, so if the ESC wasn't hot, I'd add gear and check the temps FREQUENTLY. If the motor temps don't drop, take the motor apart and see if there is anything inside that is binding (grit, bad bearing, etc.). Lowest FDR I've heard of in USGT is 4.25 with the high revving R1 motor on a small track, everything else seems to be in the 3.0 to 4.0 range. 5.5 FDR is really low. At least that's my experience. Hope that helps

Originally Posted by OttoKrosse (Post 13460329)

Thank you John, your info really helped.

I've since installed a better Integy single fan heat sink, like the one below, and temps are down to around 150. The Integy heat sink and fan I was using was a different style and it wasn't doing very well.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/DSCN2978.jpg

Haven't checked the Hobbywing V3.1 esc temps yet, will check them this weekend. I am getting ready to try some gearing combos to reduce the heat, but I don't want to sacrifice speed. My first test will be to reduce the pinion size by 1 tooth, that should help a lot.

Not sure why we have a 5.5 FDR rule here....but that's what they're doing so to play I must comply.

Thanks again,

Originally Posted by robk (Post 13460267)

No matter what type of racing it is, people try to run trucks.

Originally Posted by robk (Post 13460267)

(I will not be swayed!!!!!))

Originally Posted by vivo quevas (Post 13460805)

That car has a little too much toe out that has to be 5° I would check that on a setup station.IMHO

Originally Posted by vivo quevas (Post 13460805)

That car has a little too much toe out that has to be 5° I would check that on a setup station.IMHO

Originally Posted by Mr.75MHz (Post 13460797)

John cant wait for you to come back racing.
Was coming off the track 175° + so i had to get a fan, the cheap Integy fan was a joke but I do like the heat sink.. called my buds at Superior Hobbies for the F5 fan since I couldnt find any R1's. USGT rocked last Sat.

☆frankie p☆

Originally Posted by OttoKrosse (Post 13460329)

Not sure why we have a 5.5 FDR rule here....but that's what they're doing so to play I must comply.

Originally Posted by Mr.75MHz (Post 13460797)

John cant wait for you to come back racing.
Was coming off the track 175° + so i had to get a fan, the cheap Integy fan was a joke but I do like the heat sink.. called my buds at Superior Hobbies for the F5 fan since I couldnt find any R1's. USGT rocked last Sat.

☆frankie p☆

Originally Posted by OttoKrosse (Post 13460329)

Thank you John, your info really helped.

I've since installed a better Integy single fan heat sink, like the one below, and temps are down to around 150. The Integy heat sink and fan I was using was a different style and it wasn't doing very well.

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/DSCN2978.jpg

Haven't checked the Hobbywing V3.1 esc temps yet, will check them this weekend. I am getting ready to try some gearing combos to reduce the heat, but I don't want to sacrifice speed. My first test will be to reduce the pinion size by 1 tooth, that should help a lot.

Not sure why we have a 5.5 FDR rule here....but that's what they're doing so to play I must comply.

Thanks again,

Originally Posted by John Wallace2 (Post 13461345)

Tamiya or TCXX chassis hard to tell in the photo?

Originally Posted by John Wallace2 (Post 13461345)

I wouldn't worry too much about 150 degrees, so dropping a tooth now most likely will only slow you down. If you have to run 5.5FDR then get as close to 5.5 FDR as you can and get the largest possible legal tires you can find to maximize the rollout (how far the car rolls per motor revolution). Almost all spec tires are the same diameter repeart ALMOST ALL;) IF your ESC has a data logger check the RPM of you motor and let me know, if you aren't getting at least 15K rpm on the track.

Tamiya or TCXX chassis hard to tell in the photo?

Originally Posted by robk (Post 13460267)

No matter what type of racing it is, people try to run trucks. This drives me insane, since there are no trucks raced in any gt or prototype road racing events (nascar notwithstanding). Trucks at Lemans...?
((counting down the seconds until someone produces pictures of trucks at some full size event)(I will not be swayed!!!!!)):D

Originally Posted by robk (Post 13460267)

No matter what type of racing it is, people try to run trucks. This drives me insane, since there are no trucks raced in any gt or prototype road racing events (nascar notwithstanding). Trucks at Lemans...?

((counting down the seconds until someone produces pictures of trucks at some full size event)(I will not be swayed!!!!!)):D