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On my T4, yes, I have enough threads. I think a standard hex thickness is 4 or 5mm, depending on the car?
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Cool thanks! I'll give the 7mm hexes a try.
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Any comments or input regarding the Hobbywing Xerun 21.5 motor? I'm getting into the class and looking at all the options. Will need something that has good speed on large, flowing track.
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Ya on my spec r 4mm is standard and 6 mm is the biggest I can go with the wheels and wheel nuts I have. I run out of thread after 6. I'd prefer to use 3mm offset wheels on my 4mm hexes but I can't find any good 24mm rims with that offset.
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For the Spec-R you can change your suspension inserts to move the width as well if you want more to go even wider.
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Yep. I did that on the rear of mine. The fronts filled out my body ok but he rear still seemed too narrow. I added another couple mm to the track width and it's good now. That's a pretty handy tuning option. The r1 suspension holders are on my list of upgrade for my s1.
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I am curious to know if you guys that are trying to widen your car to fit 200m bodies realize that it completly changes the way the car handles? Also changing track width from the rim has different handling characteristics than changing it at the hinge pin holder. If your taking this into account when you work your suspension, thats great. If not, it would probably be a good idea to look into what widening a car does. Wider is not always better.
I only say this because of all the post of "I want to fill up my wheel wells". It seems that there is no regard for what widening actually does. But I could be wrong. Hope this does not offend anyone. |
Originally Posted by theproffesor
(Post 13038581)
I am curious to know if you guys that are trying to widen your car to fit 200m bodies realize that it completly changes the way the car handles? Also changing track width from the rim has different handling characteristics than changing it at the hinge pin holder. If your taking this into account when you work your suspension, thats great. If not, it would probably be a good idea to look into what widening a car does. Wider is not always better.
I only say this because of all the post of "I want to fill up my wheel wells". It seems that there is no regard for what widening actually does. But I could be wrong. Hope this does not offend anyone. Widening wll reduce traction. |
I run a TC4 in VTA with the standard wheels (26mm, 0 offset fronts with 31mm, 6mm offset rears). I have a TC4 that I plan to run in USGT. I have Tamiya 2mm offset 24mm wheels with 3mm offset hexes for the USGT car (as I want to "fill up the wheel wells") for the 200mm body. While the looks aren't completely unimportant to me, I would prefer to not look like an idiot on course (at least not a bigger idiot than I already am). Suggestions? Should I go with 0mm offset 24mm wheels and 190mm bodies?
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On carpet my vta with wide hexes was great, on asphalt it sucked.
Have not run usgt on asphalt yet so no clue what works, have a race at Kissimmee mid March so will have time to test :sneaky: |
There is nothing wrong with running a wider car, just be aware of how it will affect handling. Generally as track width increases, traction decreases for a given set-up. But you can use track width along with other changes to get the desired effect. Since you are running narrower wheels/tire similar to TC I would stick with 190 bodies if you could. But if you can only find the body you want in 200 get it and limit the amount you widen the car to fill the wheel wells. Or just fill them wheel wells on up, and tune the suspension around the wider car, just keep the same width with every set of wheels you buy.
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Can't speak for anyone but myself, but yes, I'm certainly aware of the handling characteristics of track widening, either from wider hexes or relocated hinge pins. I will fill the wheel wells reasonably well and then tune the car from there.
For me, USGT is about scale appearance and without it, this class holds zero appeal to me. It's all about the aesthetics first and foremost or I'd run only touring cars. Running super narrow offset wheels that tuck far into the body absolutely kills the look for me. For that reason alone I'll never run a 200mm body in USGT. Thankfully, our club runs USGT rules, but with allows any treaded tire so we're not limited to such a lackluster wheel/offset selection. |
Just wanted to post something about the 10mm lexan rear wing rule.
The wing some of us were using this past weekend that was in question of being legal. It is the TCS legal Tamiya optional wing. A lot of people run the Tamiya bodies they use in the TCS races. I had Rob King check the height for me after the race to see it it was under 10mm and it was. It mounts at a bit of an angle so it looks much taller then it is. Tamiya optional wing = legal. It is known. |
Travis, can you elaborate a bit on this wing? I just picked up my first Tamiya body (Subaru BRZ R&D) and it includes only a rather ordinary wing. Not familiar with the optional wing.
Thanks! Tommy |
Originally Posted by Travis S
(Post 13039151)
Just wanted to post something about the 10mm lexan rear wing rule.
The wing some of us were using this past weekend that was in question of being legal. It is the TCS legal Tamiya optional wing. A lot of people run the Tamiya bodies they use in the TCS races. I had Rob King check the height for me after the race to see it it was under 10mm and it was. It mounts at a bit of an angle so it looks much taller then it is. Tamiya optional wing = legal. It is known. |
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