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Old 11-13-2011, 02:58 AM   #871
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So i notice there are 2 gear sets for the spec r diffs... A carbon set and nylon looking set.

I recently bought one with a carbon set.. chewed those out pretty quick... and now have an older diff off a friend and it has nylon set...

So which is tougher?
Yokomo
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:16 AM   #872
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Yeah I know.... But I want to get some use out of this thing first.

(Unless you have a yokomo geardiff you want to part with)
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:18 AM   #873
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Originally Posted by TeamWTF View Post
So i notice there are 2 gear sets for the spec r diffs... A carbon set and nylon looking set.

I recently bought one with a carbon set.. chewed those out pretty quick... and now have an older diff off a friend and it has nylon set...

So which is tougher?
Ran my spec-r with the nylon for a little while and didn't strip, just leaked all the oil in one run.
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:26 AM   #874
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Was that in mod or stock?

This is for mod... For now anyways. Seems a pain in the a$$ running mod so far
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:19 AM   #875
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If your gears keep stripping then it is a sign perhaps that the teeth are not correctly meshed and /or there is excessive float on the gears. Measure the widths of the pinions and side gears just to make sure they are all the same. With the high RPM and torque being transmitted through the diff it is critical that all the components are correct and meshed uniformly or the tooth loading may be too high in one area which will cause them to strip.

One other aspect of the diff to be aware of is that the internal ratio is above 1:1 unlike a ball diff, which means the unloaded wheel can rotate faster than the pulley. If the process of unload to load is smooth then everything can be okay but if it is sharp and fast, as in hitting a bot dot or a curb on power then this will apply a large spike on the diff and could cause problems.

A combination of carbon side and nylon pinion or the other way round may be better, but that is for someone to try.
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Old 11-13-2011, 06:22 AM   #876
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Was that in mod or stock?

This is for mod... For now anyways. Seems a pain in the a$$ running mod so far
I think I ran a mix of 10.5 and mod, hit lots of stuff too XD
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Old 11-13-2011, 02:31 PM   #877
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Originally Posted by LitemodzUK View Post
If your gears keep stripping then it is a sign perhaps that the teeth are not correctly meshed and /or there is excessive float on the gears. Measure the widths of the pinions and side gears just to make sure they are all the same. With the high RPM and torque being transmitted through the diff it is critical that all the components are correct and meshed uniformly or the tooth loading may be too high in one area which will cause them to strip.

One other aspect of the diff to be aware of is that the internal ratio is above 1:1 unlike a ball diff, which means the unloaded wheel can rotate faster than the pulley. If the process of unload to load is smooth then everything can be okay but if it is sharp and fast, as in hitting a bot dot or a curb on power then this will apply a large spike on the diff and could cause problems.

A combination of carbon side and nylon pinion or the other way round may be better, but that is for someone to try.
Thanks for the advice.

It was my first attempt so they dont keep stripping, but I have heard lots of bad reports re the durability of the spec-r. When I rebuilt with the new gears I added additional shims. I may even add another yet as its not binding (I'll shim it until its just binding then take take some material off the gears until its smooth)

I'd still like some information on the different gear materials. Anyone able to shed some light on this?
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Old 11-14-2011, 05:44 PM   #878
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Thanks for the advice.

It was my first attempt so they dont keep stripping, but I have heard lots of bad reports re the durability of the spec-r. When I rebuilt with the new gears I added additional shims. I may even add another yet as its not binding (I'll shim it until its just binding then take take some material off the gears until its smooth)

I'd still like some information on the different gear materials. Anyone able to shed some light on this?
Hi
The black carbon gears last longer, any were from 3 to 12 runs, depends on how bumpy the track is from what we have found, use a .2 and a .1 shim each side, use a 1:1 car CV grease on the seals, this works very well for stopping the oil from leaking out of the outdrives and use Tamiya aint-wear grease on the gasket as well.

we have not striped any of the carbon gears but have cracked a few sets, I have had emails to and from Spec-R and told them that there pin slot is too deep and that is why the gears are cracking, I don't know if they are going to look at changing it or not.

Regards
Gary
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Old 11-14-2011, 06:36 PM   #879
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Hi
The black carbon gears last longer, any were from 3 to 12 runs, depends on how bumpy the track is from what we have found, use a .2 and a .1 shim each side, use a 1:1 car CV grease on the seals, this works very well for stopping the oil from leaking out of the outdrives and use Tamiya aint-wear grease on the gasket as well.

we have not striped any of the carbon gears but have cracked a few sets, I have had emails to and from Spec-R and told them that there pin slot is too deep and that is why the gears are cracking, I don't know if they are going to look at changing it or not.

Regards
Gary
Good info thanks
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Old 11-19-2011, 11:26 PM   #880
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is 1600 a good oil for rear diff?
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:38 PM   #881
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Great, what ring is this, for which car?
Bringing this back from the dead, how in the world can you get 3 of those spacers on there and still fit the TC5bearing? With 2 of those I barely have 1/16" for the bearing to ride on>

Thanks
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Old 08-30-2013, 04:10 PM   #882
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Do these gear diffs 38T Gear diff for Xray T2/T3 fit into the Xray T2'008?

Running stock motors, should I get the carbon gears, or will the nylon ones be ok? Also, do they now come with the version 2 gasket, or will I need to buy those separately?
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:01 AM   #883
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dan the gears are junk
6 runs in stock and they blow
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:40 AM   #884
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dan the gears are junk
6 runs in stock and they blow
I got 10 meetings on my gear diffs in 10.5T then rebuilt them, 2 more meettings, so far, so thats 12 meetings same set of gears.
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Old 08-31-2013, 12:46 AM   #885
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Shimming was key on my shui. And don't over-sand the gears. One big shim under each big gear. Small shims on the outside of the case, between the case and outdrive to remove the slop. It should feel notchy but not bound up when new. After a run or two it should be smooth.

That being said, having built an Xray diff for my T4, don't waste time with Spec-R. The xray one is that good. Slap it together, no sanding or anything, and it's perfect from the first run.

I might consider a spec-r for the front, though.

-Mike
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