DickemDown

iTrader: (3)

the arm mount you have has a dual purpose. with 0R rightside up, you have 0 antisquat. with 4R rightside up, you have 4 deg. of antisquat.

audiaudi

iTrader: (2)

Why not titanium?? I have some, PM me... :cheap:

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

Do you guys run the cheapy stock servo saver?

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

If you run the stock one use two of the gold rings it will center better....I use a Kimbrough one and its fine.

micrors4guy

iTrader: (50)

k i have been into rc for 7 years soo im not a noob only to on road lol. i just bought a used xxx-s and i need a body what wheel base is it ? and what are some good setups for carpet(ie. springs tires and oil) want to start racing on road. thanks

lukewilson

most electric tcs including the XXX-S are 190mm.
foam works best for tc carpet racing but some places still have a rubber class. check http://www.teamlosi.com/setups/index.htm for a starting setup, but your setup changes with every track.

imjonah

Well after dinking around with this car for 6 weeks, I finally ran it on a real carpet track; this is also my first time running any RC car on a track. My driving naturally was terrible. I am lucky I only broke one part in the suspension.

I finally took the advice of someone here on the forum and trimmed the throttle so the car went about 1/2 speed with the trigger pulled alll the way. With this setup I was actually able to do a lap or two without hitting the wall. I can see, I got a lot of practice ahead of me.

I had just a few questions.
1. If my primary concern is control and I am running on a small carpet track with foam tires and stock motor
any advice you can give me on the setup of the car. Does setup even matter, if I am doing slow laps trying to learn to drive the car? (assuming no settings are way out of stock spec)

2. What adjustments can I make to my controller(besides the one I already made cutting down the top speed); that will make this car easier to drive.

3. Are graphite parts stronger than stock XXX-S parts? When I bust something should replace it with graphite part? I assume Aluminum is less likely to break but more likely to bend and throw off the stearing geometry.


Thanks in advance

BlackFlagRacing

don't worry about set-up too much until you can make quick laps without the assistance of a turn marshall. look on losi's site for set ups and go with one that most closely matches your track conditions. I like the andrew gray setup. just set up the car and don't play around with it too much. once you get better at driving, only then will you'll notice the difference in subtle changes.
I don't suggest dailing out throttle on your controller, but instead learn to use throttle control with your finger. this will be cruicle in the future(carring speed) as you become more competitive.
graphite parts are alot more brittle than standard plastic parts(expecially in the winter). just go with the standard parts, cost is less and and durabillity is much higher.
hope this helps. rob

Super Steve

iTrader: (9)

actually, wheelbases differ and is adjuastable 190mm and 200mm is the width of the cars. most electric sedans being 190mm and nitros being 200mm

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Umm, that is what Luke said, he just didn't mention about Nitros because this is a thread about the XXX-S on the ELECTRIC FORUM........lol and to be specific the XXX-S is actually 188mm wide like most Electric Touring Cars.... They give you 1mm perside to allow for manufacturing imperfection in Wheels/tires...ect....

IMPACTPLAYR

iTrader: (7)

Actually from my experience the Losi Graphite parts are more durable..... Does anyone else feel the same....

Here's why I think so...... When a standard composite part breaks you can see that the plastic is more porus (air pockets in the plastics) which takes away from it's durability... When you break a Graphite part you don't see as much of this..... I broke tons f standard composite parts and have actually broken very few Graphite pieces...

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

www.rcscrewz.com

highwayman

iTrader: (2)

i have to agree, although the plastic ones bend or flex a little (in theory absorbing a little bump), i find that graphite parts are less prone to breakage with light taps.

Trevor

I sent you a PM.

lozi

Hi,

Do all of you use the grub screw to adjust the droop or is there a better way of doing this? The plastic bumper's flex is causing the droop to be inconsistent. Any ways to cure this problem is much appreciated.