Yorkie

Please can someone give me the definitive low down on what parts are needed to convert to threaded shocks so I can run a lighter, longer, spring on the front end.
Are all the Losi springs, lighter than purple, longer? If I try to run silver springs on the front my ride height is way too high with the stock shocks.

Thanks
Yorkie

Ty

iTrader: (32)

To anyone who runs foams:

I run indoors on carpet. I use either TRC or Jaco 28mm's and sometimes they rub. A fellow racer gave me an excellent tip: use TC3 hexes and it widens the car to the legal limit and also prevent the wheels from rubbing anything. Of course people who run other narrower widths won't have this problem but making it the legal width is a plus and the TC3 hexes fit better; meaning when I take the wheels off the car, the hex is not still stuck in the wheel.

Has anyone tried a full graphite car with titanium turnbuckles, aluminum screws and micro electronics? I am sure the aluminum CVD would save a good amount of weight.

Also does anyone know if Losi or MIP will come out with composite CVD bones similar to the TC3 Racer kits?

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

I have tried the overdrive/underdrive gear this past weekend at a major race in our area and it did exactly as the instruction manual stated. I put it in the rear end of the car and it gave me an increase in corner entry steering and helped stabilize the car on corner exit. It felt almost as if I wan running a one-way but not as drastic. The car did well enough to finish 2nd in stock and 3rd in modified. I would have won in stock but my car slid on a painted line on the parking lot track and in modified I was slightly underpowered since I am still running 2400's and didn't have a one way to compete on the wide open and flowing track design. The cars with one-ways were simply much faster in the corners.

I was however the top placing car with 2400's in both stock and modified. Time to get them new SMC HV Sanyo 3000's to go with my Fantom power!!!

Bob Zahn

Schuie Driver

iTrader: (8)

Ty- Great tip about the TC3 wheel hexes. I may have to give that a shot.

Somebody at the track I run at had an almost full graphite car with the aluminum CVD's this weekend. With ROAR rules stating that the car can weigh 3lbs 2 ounces, his came in at right around 3lbs 4 ounces. Not sure if adding those few extra graphite pieces (shock towers mainly) will lower that total by much. My car with a graphite chassis and graphite shocktowers weighed in at 3lbs 6 ounces. I do have a Bud's bumper and some hardware to hold it up though so my car may weigh a little more than others with the same equipment. At first I was really concerned about this car being a pig on the scales but as somebody else mentioned it seems to hold it's own VERY well at our track. Kind of surprising considering the track is quite small and twisty.

Bummer deal about the aluminum bones not being available separately yet. Guess I'll have to wait before I pick a set up. Just can't see dropping $35 a set on them.

Trips

iTrader: (16)

Yorkie,

All you'll need are the threaded shock bodies from the Street Weapon, part LOSA-5053. You'll be able to run those with the stock shafts and the longer 1.15" springs up front. While you're at it, you might want to get a set of Trinity TK3048 adjusting collars for the shocks. THey're aluminum and have o-rings in them, they're much nicer to use than the plastic adjsuters that come with the shock bodies.

I'm running 0 kickup in front, which makes it easier to get down to the proper ride height. If you're running the 2 degree kickup in front, you might still have a ride height issue. If that's the case, you should remove the rod ends from the shock shafts and cut around 1/8" off of each. When you reassemble them, you should be able to get the ride height lower than before.


There's another route you can take... If you're friendly with a local hobby shop, you might want to have them call Trinity and find out about getting you a Cyrul Street Weapon conversion kit. That will contain two slightly shorter shock bodies and slightly shorter shock shafts. You won't be able to use anything else from the kit, but if you're friendly with the shop, you might be surprised at how low the price can be for the kit. I've also heard from a few people who should know that Losi may be offering shorter bodies and shafts for the car, but I haven't been able to confirm that.

The shorter shafts and bodies won't change the ride height, that's really a function of hte spring length, but they do allow the shock pistons to run lower in the body of the shock... since any air that gets in there tends to collect at the top, it's best to have the piston lower in the body so it's immersed in oil and not in the air.

Trips

Trips

iTrader: (16)

That's something I'd LOVE to see... I hope Losi or someone will offer composite CVD bones for the XXX-S. I've made some adapters so I can run TC3 bones in my car, but I'm not completely happy with them yet.

Trips

rodneybarrett

iTrader: (50)

Schuie Driver: That $35 a pair. $70 for the set. Pretty steep.

Aluminum dog bones takes off .4 ounces for all 4.

BobbyZ: I'll have to try to undergear/overgear diff. Any other thoughts you can give about the u/o diff. Did you notice any slowdown in speed?

Schuie Driver

iTrader: (8)

My point exactly Rodney I certainly don't mind spending money on my cars but sometimes you just have to know when to say when if you know what I mean. Guess I'll just have to be patient to see if the bones become available separately here in the near future.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Matt - Should i get the other spur gears? We just got 2 of each in this week...

Im also looking at threaded shocks...

mike_Webb

Has anyone thought about putting the front shocks on upside down? Is there a advantage to doing this? Also I noticed on the Associated sit that the Untanium or whatever shock shafts are .35 long. Can these be used with the threaded shock bodies from Losi? When people say that they cut the end of the shock shorter by 1/8 inch are you talking about the actual shaft (threaded end of course) or are you talking about the ball cup holder that threads onto the end of the shock shaft? I think that I am going to buy the graphite parts for my car and then do some more milling of the chassis to reduce weight some more since I am racing stock. My friend said that one guy took the regular chassis and cut all the holes in it like the graphite kit, he then cut holes in the belt cover area on the chassis and covered the holes with a sticker. They thought that it would weaken the chassis and make it flex but they tested it and there was hardly any more flex and he did take on some bad hits in his race (modified) and the chassis held up pretty good.

Mike Webb

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

Mike-

If you cut Half of the threads off the shaft, and the same amount off the lower shock mount, you can add 1/8" of up and 1/8" downtravel. The shorter shock mount will let the spring retainer to sit lower, and this allow the shaft to go into the shock body more. The shorter shaft will keep the piston lower in the oil.

mike_Webb

I saw a interesting mod this weekend at the track that a Team Trinty/Losi driver did to his XXX-S for testing. He took a rear shock tower and cut the camber area off the shock tower so that it was a square with the 4 holes in it. He then super glued it to the bottom of the Camber area on his Rear shock tower mounted to his car. Interesting little mod. He commented that it only took him a week to pull out the dremel on this car . Although he was not using the camber holes that day at the track I was wondering what that mod that he made actually did for the car. I would have asked him but he was busy scrambling making a front swaybar for his car at the time.

Mike Webb

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

he just changed the camber angle.....for more camber gain....musta been kinwald, he loves super glue...

mike_Webb

Nope... Not Kinwald....

Matt M.

iTrader: (26)

ya know...after i typed it in i saw where you are from....duuuuuhh

troy, if ya want....i see n need to change....mayby the 90 tooth...