yodace

iTrader: (8)

a little more droop do you mean go down to like two or three?

SirSpeedy

iTrader: (2)

Post the setup you were running first. Then we can all help you from there.

No such thing as a blanket setup that works everywhere.

PRoYokOmoWaCuR

is there such thing as carbon fiber chassis for the losi xxx-s? if there is then do you know where i can purchase it?

yodace

iTrader: (8)

I just got a HUDY setup station. I was wondering when you set the droop, should I leave the shocks on or off?

Fire

you should have the shocks on~~
use the spring collas to adjust ride height
the use the set screw to adjust droops

more droops = more down travel, ie the lower number on the droop guage when suspension is unloaded.

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

losi xxx-s @tchr in minnesota w/ foams,

front:
shock oil: 80 wt
piston: 56
spring: trinity congo yellow
shock mount on tower: 2 hole
camber link: 2 hole
tire: plaid foam 26mm
castor block: 2 deg
kick up mount: 2f
arm spacing: forward
camber: 2 deg

rear:
shock oil: 80 wt
piston: 55
spring: trinity congo blue
shock mount on tower: 2 hole
arm: inside
camber link on tower: 2 hole
hub: b hole
tire: purple foam 26 mm
anti drive mount: 0R
arm spacing: middle
camber: 2-2.5 deg.

this setup also works with 80wt front 70 wt rear and 56 pistons front and rear. i guess when i ran it the first time and all i've done to the car is add camber (started at 1 deg) and replace the tires. tchr is large carpet track which had a good bite when i ran this setup. if it were a ustc race w/ everyone loading on traction compound i would increase shock oil wt.

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

Shrekair, Thanks for the set up tips. I actually ran the USTC race their last year with the Losi. Don't remember what set up I used, but had a good finish. 4th in the stock A with foams. I tried a set up this past weekend and it was awesome. Here ya go.....

FRONT:

57 piston
70 weight oil
Losi black springs
Shocks laid in to the third hole
Camber link in to the third hole
Losi smallest sway bar
2 droop set at the boss on the castor block
4 castor block
2 kick up
MF low roll center blocks with a .030 shim underneath. Making the 2 kick up actually 1.
-1 ½ camber
TRC Cyan tire

REAR:

56 piston
50 weight oil
Losi purple springs
Shocks laid in to the third hole
Camber link long as possible
Losi smalles sway bar
0R antisquat block
Stock rear hubs
4 droop
MF low roll center blocks
-1 ½ camber
TRC purple tire

Batteries forward
Reedy Ti 10x2 (128-27 gearing)

ZER01

Front
Piston: 56
Oil: Losi 50wt.
Spring: Losi Blue
Upper Shock Lcation: Stock
Camber Link Location: Stock
Sway Bar: #4(thickest)
Droop: 2
Roll Center Blocks: Stock
Kickup/Anti-dive: 0F
Castor Block: 0
Camber:-1/2
Arm spacing: Middle
Toe: 0
Ride Height: 6mm
Diff/Oneway: Diff(42 tooth)
Tires: 24mm Take Off 27's
Inserts: 24mm Take Off Medium's
Wheels: 24mm Proline Aerodish

Rear
Piston: 56
Oil: Losi 50wt.
Spring: Losi Blue
Upper Shock Location: Stock
Camber Link Location on Tower: Stock
Camber Link Location on Hub: Stock
Sway Bar: #2(2nd thickest)
Droop: 4
Roll Center Blocks: Stock
Anti-Squat: 0R
Camber: -1/2
Arm Spacing: Middle
Toe: Stock
Ride Height: 6mm
Diff/Oneway: Diff(42 tooth)
Tires: 24mm Take Off 27's
Inserts: 24mm Take Off Medium's
Wheels: 24mm Proline Aerodish

Other
Body: Trinity Stratus(Asphalt ver.)
Batteries: Forward
Motor: P2K2
Spur: 118
Pinion: 31

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

rob
i've run the losi at blue gongo front (30 lb) and black losi rear (25 lb) at 80 wt 56/55 and it was ok but it felt a little to soft. and had a little more steering then i needed on that given day so i went to yellow front, blue rear 40/30lb. car ramined more stable, as it should have. the setup i ran came into the corner in a hurry, not an over steer but it turned in well. then ikn the middle it settled, then caught inself and turned off again. i never really had an understeer in the middle, its just i had so much steeering on entry and exit. I ran 2 deg castor blocks and 2 deg kick, but i'd wanna try 4 deg and 0 kick to see if it changes at all. but i think that running purple springs w/ foam would be too soft, but then again i dont run with sway bars most of the time, i'll just stiffen the spring. habit i guess. are you coming back this year? i'd like to meet ya and chat about this further. did u enjoy jasons party last year? i bet he'll do it again so we'll see.

James

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

I will definitely be back if you guys get that race again. I love the track. BIG!

What I have found with the Losi and some other sedan's is that when stiffening the car it gained more traction. I find that a softer spring frees the car up a little. Right now I am running on a very tight and technical layout. The track is only 70x32. A couple of us that run there got faster when softening up our cars. I want to try running the 1/2 degree hubs backwards taking 1/2 toe out of the car. EXPERIMENTATION. Gotta love it!

I think I ran Losi black springs front and rear at Oktoberfast last year. I ran Congo purple front and Congo blue in the rear with 57 pistons and 70/50 oil at Cleveland last year and the car was really good.

Here is my e-mail if you find out anything about the race or any good set up info... [email protected]

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

rob, dates and info are in the minnesota racing thread. under club and regional forums. the click "onroad at tchr". the race is already scheduled, and its on trinity's list aswell.

as far as springs, i've found that a stiffer front mean more turn in and less turn out. and less turning ability in general. but it will also stabilise the car if it's rolling too much or its too slow to react. same goes for softening the front. it will gain more traction from the middle off and more steering in general. in the rear a stiffer spring always gave me more turn in, and more forward traction coming out. a softer spring never wanted to turn in and the got squirly coming off. why? who knows. stock losi w/ rubber tires generally runs a 1-2 spring wt split (heavier front) but the car wouldnt turn enough for me so i stiffened the front, on spring wt, and the rear 2 wts. starting from a blue-silver, i ended up w/ a purple/green or green/green. in doing this, the car was a lot more stable and could weave through just about anything. then i went to either 40 or 50 wt, depending on the traction and either 2 or 4 deg kick up blocks. (0f-0r kick up/anti drive). generally 50 wt w/ 2 deg blocks or 40 wt and 4 deg blocks.
if the car had jet engines, it would be able to kill osama bin laden and keep on a going

zoom-zoom,
James

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

*note* with rubber i ran a one way, with foams i always run a 41 tooth in front 42 tooth in back

Fire

I have a question i should've asked when i first building the car

does the adjustment screw of the front and rear diffs should face the same direction or different direction? the menu said that they should face the driver's left side is it the left side when you look at it in when the driver is facing the front or rear?

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

left side of the car. unless u drive backwards

direction doesnt matter a whole lot anyway - a diff spins 2 ways right?

rybeyak

any diff should be facing the way the instructions tell you, the reason if that it is put in the wrong way, the screw can actually loosen from running.