CEFX 2010 - A new Evolution.
04-12-2010, 11:03 AM
#76
You think josh designs his cars by what the trend is? cutting out the chassis the only way to get the 2nd heaviest component in the car 2-3mm lower.
Josh, have you composed a list of what parts are required from the photon? I'm going to guess its one of those scenarios where the kit is probably cheaper than the parts alone.
Josh, have you composed a list of what parts are required from the photon? I'm going to guess its one of those scenarios where the kit is probably cheaper than the parts alone.
04-13-2010, 05:09 AM
#78
You think josh designs his cars by what the trend is? cutting out the chassis the only way to get the 2nd heaviest component in the car 2-3mm lower.
Josh, have you composed a list of what parts are required from the photon? I'm going to guess its one of those scenarios where the kit is probably cheaper than the parts alone.
Josh, have you composed a list of what parts are required from the photon? I'm going to guess its one of those scenarios where the kit is probably cheaper than the parts alone.
04-13-2010, 06:06 AM
#80
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
This has got to be the most retarded statement to date.
Why don`t you go back to your tamiya forums and throll around over there.
And BTW, why don`t you try to broaden your mind by reading a few pages back, it just might make you a little bit smarter.
04-13-2010, 07:13 AM
#81
Khador12 - The front shock tower has an additional position on the outside to stand up the front shocks a little further but I removed two positions from the very inside. The rear shock tower is about the same on the positions but the body mounts are further out so you can run the body posts on the back side and not end up going through the wing mounts on the body. This way there's a little more safety for body tucks but also I think it improves the downforce/responce from the car a little.
MikeXray - I haven't made up a list yet. At the moment it will be easier to convert a kit but I have some other news in that as well. Give me a day or two as I am trying to get caught up and cut the graphite so I can post some production pics as well as some options for building the car.
TRF415boy - Wow... Jumping to conclusions aren't we?? I replied to you earlier about why I don't like drop milling the graphite. Also the motor guard protects the motor from side impacts. The motor is not flush mounted with the bottom of the chassis. Keep in mind, when you move the motor 5mm closer to center and figure in a certain amount of chassis roll + compression when cornering and sort out what the lowest possible position you can put the motor in without it dragging excessively. Because the motor is moved in 5mm, it's lowered about .25-.35mm (I'd have to check the drawings again, I don't remember exactly off the top of my head). Just because the motor plate isn't a full plate doesn't mean it's not ridgid. It's a very stiff/strong 5mm thick steel plate that the motor mounts to so there is no problems with the motor bouncing/bending down and bottoming against the track.... I'm not engineering with an etcha-sketch here, I'm using every resource I possibly can to make the best products....
MikeXray - I haven't made up a list yet. At the moment it will be easier to convert a kit but I have some other news in that as well. Give me a day or two as I am trying to get caught up and cut the graphite so I can post some production pics as well as some options for building the car.
TRF415boy - Wow... Jumping to conclusions aren't we?? I replied to you earlier about why I don't like drop milling the graphite. Also the motor guard protects the motor from side impacts. The motor is not flush mounted with the bottom of the chassis. Keep in mind, when you move the motor 5mm closer to center and figure in a certain amount of chassis roll + compression when cornering and sort out what the lowest possible position you can put the motor in without it dragging excessively. Because the motor is moved in 5mm, it's lowered about .25-.35mm (I'd have to check the drawings again, I don't remember exactly off the top of my head). Just because the motor plate isn't a full plate doesn't mean it's not ridgid. It's a very stiff/strong 5mm thick steel plate that the motor mounts to so there is no problems with the motor bouncing/bending down and bottoming against the track.... I'm not engineering with an etcha-sketch here, I'm using every resource I possibly can to make the best products....
04-13-2010, 07:16 AM
#82
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
TRF415boy - Wow... Jumping to conclusions aren't we?? I replied to you earlier about why I don't like drop milling the graphite. Also the motor guard protects the motor from side impacts. The motor is not flush mounted with the bottom of the chassis. Keep in mind, when you move the motor 5mm closer to center and figure in a certain amount of chassis roll + compression when cornering and sort out what the lowest possible position you can put the motor in without it dragging excessively. Because the motor is moved in 5mm, it's lowered about .25-.35mm (I'd have to check the drawings again, I don't remember exactly off the top of my head). Just because the motor plate isn't a full plate doesn't mean it's not ridgid. It's a very stiff/strong 5mm thick steel plate that the motor mounts to so there is no problems with the motor bouncing/bending down and bottoming against the track.... I'm not engineering with an etcha-sketch here, I'm using every resource I possibly can to make the best products....[/QUOTE]
True that
Tell him josh.
True that
Tell him josh.
04-13-2010, 08:28 AM
#83
TRF415boy - Wow... Jumping to conclusions aren't we?? I replied to you earlier about why I don't like drop milling the graphite. Also the motor guard protects the motor from side impacts. The motor is not flush mounted with the bottom of the chassis. Keep in mind, when you move the motor 5mm closer to center and figure in a certain amount of chassis roll + compression when cornering and sort out what the lowest possible position you can put the motor in without it dragging excessively. Because the motor is moved in 5mm, it's lowered about .25-.35mm (I'd have to check the drawings again, I don't remember exactly off the top of my head). Just because the motor plate isn't a full plate doesn't mean it's not ridgid. It's a very stiff/strong 5mm thick steel plate that the motor mounts to so there is no problems with the motor bouncing/bending down and bottoming against the track.... I'm not engineering with an etcha-sketch here, I'm using every resource I possibly can to make the best products....
Now you did answer my question earlier on and I did understand what you meant, even though I don't personally like this solution, it was an interesting answer. Personally I'm not a fan of your design but I aknowledge that it is innovative.
04-13-2010, 08:32 AM
#84
Mind your language you wouldn't want to be reported now would you? Just because you didn't understand what I was talking about doesn't give you the right to call me names and say I'm stupid.
04-13-2010, 09:11 AM
#86
04-13-2010, 11:29 AM
#87
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Since you want to get technical about what was said..... He didn't call you any names or say that you were stupid. He said that your STATEMENT was retarded. I'm sure that Josh knows enough about RC cars that he wouldn't design a major flaw into the chassis. He's been doing this for a minute.
Thank you very much Sir...i was just about to write the same thing.
04-13-2010, 02:09 PM
#88
TRF415boy - A few pages back you comment that you like my approach on different designs but now you are not a fan of it. 
I'm confussed. As far as my comment about the motor plate bending or the motor bouncing - This was because the question was already asked to me in an e-mail over 9 months ago when I presented the concept of no drop mill area with the motor guard to TOP. Everyone thinks you have to have that piece of graphite there to protect the motor.... It's not true and makes no difference to any movement from the motor or added protection.
Anyway, enough about the chippy language to each other. Positive comments please... Finished up with the CNC programs and going to cut the final sample patterns before doing the main production run programs. After I cut these, I'll put a Evo conversion together for some pics then I'll put full cars together.
Back to work...
I'm confussed. As far as my comment about the motor plate bending or the motor bouncing - This was because the question was already asked to me in an e-mail over 9 months ago when I presented the concept of no drop mill area with the motor guard to TOP. Everyone thinks you have to have that piece of graphite there to protect the motor.... It's not true and makes no difference to any movement from the motor or added protection.Anyway, enough about the chippy language to each other. Positive comments please... Finished up with the CNC programs and going to cut the final sample patterns before doing the main production run programs. After I cut these, I'll put a Evo conversion together for some pics then I'll put full cars together.
Back to work...
04-13-2010, 02:32 PM
#89
Tech Master
iTrader: (80)
TRF415boy - A few pages back you comment that you like my approach on different designs but now you are not a fan of it. I'm confussed. As far as my comment about the motor plate bending or the motor bouncing - This was because the question was already asked to me in an e-mail over 9 months ago when I presented the concept of no drop mill area with the motor guard to TOP. Everyone thinks you have to have that piece of graphite there to protect the motor.... It's not true and makes no difference to any movement from the motor or added protection.
Anyway, enough about the chippy language to each other. Positive comments please... Finished up with the CNC programs and going to cut the final sample patterns before doing the main production run programs. After I cut these, I'll put a Evo conversion together for some pics then I'll put full cars together.
Back to work...
I'm confussed. As far as my comment about the motor plate bending or the motor bouncing - This was because the question was already asked to me in an e-mail over 9 months ago when I presented the concept of no drop mill area with the motor guard to TOP. Everyone thinks you have to have that piece of graphite there to protect the motor.... It's not true and makes no difference to any movement from the motor or added protection.Anyway, enough about the chippy language to each other. Positive comments please... Finished up with the CNC programs and going to cut the final sample patterns before doing the main production run programs. After I cut these, I'll put a Evo conversion together for some pics then I'll put full cars together.
Back to work...
BTW, I used to live in Plymouth, MI when I was in high school (almost a decade ago). My younger brother worked at Rider's Hobby in Canton with Shawn and Jeff. Still keep in touch with those guys?
Chi
04-15-2010, 08:46 AM
#90
Tech Rookie
Ackerman
Hi Josh, congratulation for your new Design, the new Evo it's awesome..
The production chassis will have 2 ackerman hole like the Cad picture?
And the chassis will be 2.25mm isotropic carbon like new top lipo?
The production chassis will have 2 ackerman hole like the Cad picture?
And the chassis will be 2.25mm isotropic carbon like new top lipo?