k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Yes, I had the TCX diff in - the biggest thing is the different bearings, you need then or else you get a boatload of drag and wobble in the diff.... I tried it quickly and I liked it, but pulled it out after 2 runs when I realized the car was slower

littlealex

iTrader: (86)

which brand of diff oil do you guys use for your gear diffs??

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

I use losi right now

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

I used xray in the front - since they go to 300k and above
Losi in the rear

DJGonzo69

iTrader: (17)

When using the gear diff in the front I have heard that you will need to use 44mm bones. Is this true? Had a chance to run with JJ Chang of HB today. Great young driver for HB. Cool kid to hang out & pit with.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Now I got what you are saying for reason to use the lower shock form the start..Thanks for your explanning ...I agreed

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

if you go back a page or 2, you'll see that I asked the same exact question when Hiro said you need 44mm shafts..

I've been running 46mm without issue - no binding at all...Korey gave an explanation of what the longer shafts gives you, feeling-wise, but I just don't have a set of 44mm shafts to compare which feel of the car I like better - so the 46mm stay in mine...

jono1982

iTrader: (4)

Does Anybody know if these parts are avalible to buy yet if not any idea on when we are hosting a round of femca championship here in australia and would be goo to have these parts for then

chris1160

hi Korey,

i have a few questions regarding the tcx:

i tried the tamiya front hubs to get more steering and honestly the tamiya and yok hubs are used very often; my problem is, that the aluminium drive shaft locks /chatters at the end. which hubs do you use and should i try also the tamiya drive shafts to minimize the chattering?!

you wrote a lot about the right position of the piston in the shocks; how long is the overall length of your shocks?

please, can you also explain what happens, if you use wider front pivot blocks (1° or 1,5°) instead of the original one; also what is the effect of using a wider front block in ff.

thanks in advance

chris

k_bojar

iTrader: (30)

Hey Chris - check this link out:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/in.../Pro4_pg32.jpg

it gives you an explanation of what changing the front toe-blocks does - its very basic and i'm sure there are other guys on here that can explain in greater detail, but I found this to be useful

In the front, the lower you go (ie, 2.0 -> 1.5 -> 1.0 -> 0) the more stability you get in the front...

Hope it helps

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

Well I should get my TCX later today after class. By tomorrow night it will likely be a TCX /417. If all goes well I have a 417 ver II diff on the way by noon today and in my hands tomorrow. Also what I am guessing are the correct parts to convert the drivetrain using Cyclone TC belts. Hopefully I will have a diff that doesn't leak and is concentric

Apex

iTrader: (51)

Anyone looking for a TCX???

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...cx-roller.html

Peter Reardon

Does anyone remember the final gear ratio for an 8 turn brushed motor a starting point would be a great help

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Sorry Chris,

I totally missed this post. Sorry it's taken me a while to notice it .

Overall length for stock shock towers is usually about 64.5mm. With the lowerered towers, I like 63.5 to 64.0mm. I know it may seem like a very small difference, but it does change how the car drives. I think it's important to measure your shocks . The car will generally feel a little more "stuck" with a slightly shorter shock. You can also tune the balance of the car slightly as well. Sometimes I run 63.5 in the front, and 64.0-64.5mm in the rear to get the rear end to rotate a little more.

I personally use Tamiya steering knuckles right now. I honestly don't see the chatter as a terrible thing. I usually try not to turn the wheel that much anyway. Something to think about is how differently the car reacts when it is unload (up in the air on a car stand) in comparison to how it is loaded (while on the ground driving). It usually won't chatter NEARLY as much on the track.

The FF suspension blocks control the amount of arm sweep in the front end. Arm sweep changes a few things in the geometry like ackerman, wheelbase, and inboard toe all at the same time. I've found the more arm sweep you run, the more steering the car will have right at the apex of the corner. Less arm sweep generally gives more steering into the corner, but less going through the middle and exit.

Hope that helps!

-Korey

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Mid to low 8's???? It's been a long time