Hot Bodies TCX
05-24-2011, 07:47 PM
#2836
Tech Apprentice
There is some work to be done and it may not be worth it in the end with all the other options available.
But if you must... you will need to slowly and carefully drill the outdrives to allow the larger ball end of the ECS dog bone to fit. The ECS pin is smaller so you could find an end cap that will work or press the pin out. If you press the pin out, the hole will have to be drilled just smaller than the HB pins you will have pressed out of the old HB dog.
Take note, the axle is a tad bit shorter than the HB's, so when you put on the wheel hex and tighten the wheel to it, you will be up against the bearings and that is not good. I had to use a Tamiya hex to fix that problem.
In the end, this process is a PITA!
I have returned to a regular axle and dog bone setup with sleeves holding the axle pin in place, not a grub screw. I am using Top steel axles so I still had to press HB pins into them...
I found nearly no advantages to running the ECS. After awhile they wear and are costly to repair/replace compared to a regular set of drive shafts.
My .02...
But if you must... you will need to slowly and carefully drill the outdrives to allow the larger ball end of the ECS dog bone to fit. The ECS pin is smaller so you could find an end cap that will work or press the pin out. If you press the pin out, the hole will have to be drilled just smaller than the HB pins you will have pressed out of the old HB dog.
Take note, the axle is a tad bit shorter than the HB's, so when you put on the wheel hex and tighten the wheel to it, you will be up against the bearings and that is not good. I had to use a Tamiya hex to fix that problem.
In the end, this process is a PITA!
I have returned to a regular axle and dog bone setup with sleeves holding the axle pin in place, not a grub screw. I am using Top steel axles so I still had to press HB pins into them...
I found nearly no advantages to running the ECS. After awhile they wear and are costly to repair/replace compared to a regular set of drive shafts.
My .02...
Okey , it.s because I have MASSIVE wheel shattering in almost all turns. Right now I use stock spool and outdrives and the HB/HPI steel axles as I mentioned a litttle earlier. Any Ideas ??
Thanks Mike
05-25-2011, 12:58 AM
#2837
When the ECS were new they were awesome but as they wore the backlash was the end result and wore out the outdrives. Made for a costly R&R.
Work with the ECS, it may be something perfect for you. I guess I am lazy/cheap cause I don't feel like breaking down the ECS to R&R what is worn.
P37 I dont like, and the new RIDE Subaru has CRAZY steering, especially high speed. Up too your driving style though
05-25-2011, 01:18 AM
#2839
Tech Apprentice
The ECS's will work great for the chatter but I found that if I limit the throw and remove the CV grub screw the majority of the chatter is removed.
When the ECS were new they were awesome but as they wore the backlash was the end result and wore out the outdrives. Made for a costly R&R.
Work with the ECS, it may be something perfect for you. I guess I am lazy/cheap cause I don't feel like breaking down the ECS to R&R what is worn.
When the ECS were new they were awesome but as they wore the backlash was the end result and wore out the outdrives. Made for a costly R&R.
Work with the ECS, it may be something perfect for you. I guess I am lazy/cheap cause I don't feel like breaking down the ECS to R&R what is worn.
Thanks for the quick answer.
I have also removed th grub screw and using the tube from top , it make a perfect fit. Have used a dremel on the stock outdrives on the spool and then use blades on the steel axles , and almost all shattering is gone. I think that with a front Spec R it will be all gone. Think I will do the same as You and stay with the normal axles.
Thanks
Mike
05-25-2011, 11:01 AM
#2840
Tech Regular
Nice review, and should help any prospective buyers.
One small typo - the front drive shafts are 46mm, the rears are 44mm:
The driveshafts are very nice looking purple alloy parts with the front being 44mm and the rear 44mm. You can see the front ones in the picture below with the very nice Hot Bodies engraving;
One small typo - the front drive shafts are 46mm, the rears are 44mm:
The driveshafts are very nice looking purple alloy parts with the front being 44mm and the rear 44mm. You can see the front ones in the picture below with the very nice Hot Bodies engraving;
Thanks for that.
Stephen
05-25-2011, 12:29 PM
#2842
that was a hot little body - i have one, never ran it...wish i could run it
05-25-2011, 01:52 PM
#2844
I bought one from http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...subaru&pg_no=1
they only had one for sale. unfortunately this body isn't ROAR legal (yet!...... nor do i know if they are plans to make it legal)
they only had one for sale. unfortunately this body isn't ROAR legal (yet!...... nor do i know if they are plans to make it legal)
05-25-2011, 02:14 PM
#2845
I bought one from http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...subaru&pg_no=1
they only had one for sale. unfortunately this body isn't ROAR legal (yet!...... nor do i know if they are plans to make it legal)
they only had one for sale. unfortunately this body isn't ROAR legal (yet!...... nor do i know if they are plans to make it legal)
05-25-2011, 02:29 PM
#2846
i think someone said type c from last page.
whats difference between a b and c?
i think i will get one but not sure a b or c
whats difference between a b and c?
i think i will get one but not sure a b or c
05-25-2011, 02:45 PM
#2848
interesting, i think i will get a type b for my tcx
does anyone know will square pro4 front axle fit our tcx?
does anyone know will square pro4 front axle fit our tcx?
05-25-2011, 02:50 PM
#2849
http://sidepieceracing.com/
05-25-2011, 03:41 PM
#2850
Any body is using the DJC drive shaft? part number 67699, i try to fit mine in but it is touching the C-hub. I have tried to remove the shim between the 2 bearings in the steering block but it does not help........
Thank you
Thank you