2LikesTamiya TB-Evolution IV
02-28-2005, 05:30 PM
#2761
Tech Fanatic
Re: Diff. shim adjustment question
Originally posted by loosenut
Got a question...
On the instruction (step 3) it says to put (3) 10x.03mm shims on the left side of the rear diff. and (1) 10x.1mm shim on the right side...but with this - there's still alot of play! IS it ok to put an extra 10x.03mm shim on the left side of the diff.? I did that and the play was almost gone but I noticed that the diff unit is not as center ... as least as much as I like it to be...
Thx.
Gary
Got a question...
On the instruction (step 3) it says to put (3) 10x.03mm shims on the left side of the rear diff. and (1) 10x.1mm shim on the right side...but with this - there's still alot of play! IS it ok to put an extra 10x.03mm shim on the left side of the diff.? I did that and the play was almost gone but I noticed that the diff unit is not as center ... as least as much as I like it to be...
Thx.
Gary
02-28-2005, 07:41 PM
#2762
They just use that as an extremely sparse guess. It seems as if you really need to just try putting more in the reduce the slop. It's a trial and error thing and just as long as it doesn't bind and the gears are not too far apart, then you will have a fast and reliable drivetrain that won't chew up the bevel gears or the oneway gears in an accident (I've only ever had 2 break on me, and they were both in massive rolls).
So yeh, just keep putting more in until it has NO MOVEMENT. Then, remove 1 shim and put it back in and see if there is a hint of play. If there is, then it should be okay. Best thing to do is to just create the bulkheads with the diffs inside them but not the bevel gears. Then try to spin it and see how long it spins for. If it goes for about 3-5 seconds or so then that should be fine. So make it as close to binding as possible, without binding, if that makes sense.
So yeh, just keep putting more in until it has NO MOVEMENT. Then, remove 1 shim and put it back in and see if there is a hint of play. If there is, then it should be okay. Best thing to do is to just create the bulkheads with the diffs inside them but not the bevel gears. Then try to spin it and see how long it spins for. If it goes for about 3-5 seconds or so then that should be fine. So make it as close to binding as possible, without binding, if that makes sense.
02-28-2005, 11:18 PM
#2763
For Sale
I have a Jurgen oneway and spool for a EVOIII/EVOIV on EBay
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MESE:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...e=STRK:MESE:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...sPageName=WDVW
02-28-2005, 11:32 PM
#2764
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by F. Alonso
They just use that as an extremely sparse guess. It seems as if you really need to just try putting more in the reduce the slop. It's a trial and error thing and just as long as it doesn't bind and the gears are not too far apart, then you will have a fast and reliable drivetrain that won't chew up the bevel gears or the oneway gears in an accident (I've only ever had 2 break on me, and they were both in massive rolls).
So yeh, just keep putting more in until it has NO MOVEMENT. Then, remove 1 shim and put it back in and see if there is a hint of play. If there is, then it should be okay. Best thing to do is to just create the bulkheads with the diffs inside them but not the bevel gears. Then try to spin it and see how long it spins for. If it goes for about 3-5 seconds or so then that should be fine. So make it as close to binding as possible, without binding, if that makes sense.
They just use that as an extremely sparse guess. It seems as if you really need to just try putting more in the reduce the slop. It's a trial and error thing and just as long as it doesn't bind and the gears are not too far apart, then you will have a fast and reliable drivetrain that won't chew up the bevel gears or the oneway gears in an accident (I've only ever had 2 break on me, and they were both in massive rolls).
So yeh, just keep putting more in until it has NO MOVEMENT. Then, remove 1 shim and put it back in and see if there is a hint of play. If there is, then it should be okay. Best thing to do is to just create the bulkheads with the diffs inside them but not the bevel gears. Then try to spin it and see how long it spins for. If it goes for about 3-5 seconds or so then that should be fine. So make it as close to binding as possible, without binding, if that makes sense.
G
03-01-2005, 12:14 AM
#2765
Tech Fanatic
quality on this car is amazing
03-01-2005, 12:24 AM
#2766
Originally posted by loosenut
quality on this car is amazing
quality on this car is amazing
dont hav any prob on ur car?
03-01-2005, 08:53 AM
#2768
OK, without going through all 93 pages in this thread...
A friend of mine has an Evo-4 that he will be racing at a couple TCS races. Does anyone have a good pavement setup for this car? Since it's a TCS race, obviously only Tamiya parts are allowed.
Thanks!
A friend of mine has an Evo-4 that he will be racing at a couple TCS races. Does anyone have a good pavement setup for this car? Since it's a TCS race, obviously only Tamiya parts are allowed.
Thanks!
03-01-2005, 09:08 AM
#2769
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Originally posted by McSmooth
OK, without going through all 93 pages in this thread...
A friend of mine has an Evo-4 that he will be racing at a couple TCS races. Does anyone have a good pavement setup for this car? Since it's a TCS race, obviously only Tamiya parts are allowed.
Thanks!
OK, without going through all 93 pages in this thread...
A friend of mine has an Evo-4 that he will be racing at a couple TCS races. Does anyone have a good pavement setup for this car? Since it's a TCS race, obviously only Tamiya parts are allowed.
Thanks!
I'm looking for a good starting gearing for a tight track and a reedy quad mag 19t.
03-01-2005, 10:37 AM
#2770
Originally posted by GroffBall
I'm running 45wt oil the whole way around, 2nd hole from the outside on the shock towers, outside whole on the arms I think, yellow springs rear, blues front, hmmm thats all I can think of right now. Obviously A's and with orange HPI inserts.
I'm looking for a good starting gearing for a tight track and a reedy quad mag 19t.
I'm running 45wt oil the whole way around, 2nd hole from the outside on the shock towers, outside whole on the arms I think, yellow springs rear, blues front, hmmm thats all I can think of right now. Obviously A's and with orange HPI inserts.
I'm looking for a good starting gearing for a tight track and a reedy quad mag 19t.
I drive on a tight track, and my final drive ratio is 6.3. I run a TC4 (2.5 drive ratio) geared 38/96.
On the Quad Mag, I have found 2 brush/spring setups that work equally as well.
1. Reedy 768 Brushes with Purple Springs
2. Reedy 769 Brushes with Black Peak/Orion Viper Springs
What Tamiya insert would be the equivalent of the HPI Orange?
03-01-2005, 11:13 AM
#2771
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Is that final drive ratio with rubber tires, if not what is your rollout?
HPI orange is a medium type insert, if you are setting it up for TCS you can run whatever insert you like, you do not need to stick with Tamiya. I prefer the HPI inserts to the Tamiya ones.
HPI orange is a medium type insert, if you are setting it up for TCS you can run whatever insert you like, you do not need to stick with Tamiya. I prefer the HPI inserts to the Tamiya ones.
03-01-2005, 11:28 AM
#2772
Originally posted by GroffBall
Is that final drive ratio with rubber tires, if not what is your rollout?
HPI orange is a medium type insert, if you are setting it up for TCS you can run whatever insert you like, you do not need to stick with Tamiya. I prefer the HPI inserts to the Tamiya ones.
Is that final drive ratio with rubber tires, if not what is your rollout?
HPI orange is a medium type insert, if you are setting it up for TCS you can run whatever insert you like, you do not need to stick with Tamiya. I prefer the HPI inserts to the Tamiya ones.
Thanks for the tip on tire inserts at TCS races. I'll pass that along.
03-02-2005, 02:17 PM
#2773
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
My EVO is on the auction block...
to any interested parties, I'm parting ways with my EVO4. It's a very nice car...chances are if your thinking of a hop-up item the car probably has it included
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=65021
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=65021
03-02-2005, 02:38 PM
#2774
Re: My EVO is on the auction block...
Originally posted by madjack
to any interested parties, I'm parting ways with my EVO4. It's a very nice car...chances are if your thinking of a hop-up item the car probably has it included
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=65021
to any interested parties, I'm parting ways with my EVO4. It's a very nice car...chances are if your thinking of a hop-up item the car probably has it included
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=65021
