Tamiya TB-Evolution IV
#1847
Tech Master
ok.racin the evo4 tonight on carpet.tight technical track.
ive remover the centre to braces on the main chasis and top decjk to hopefully produce more flex and grip.has anyone done this?
i was gona try the standard 415 suspension arms but after putting them on and seeing how far the front is from the chassis i put the new set back on as it seems to far away from the chassis and will understeer,plus you have no wheelbase tuning.
ive remover the centre to braces on the main chasis and top decjk to hopefully produce more flex and grip.has anyone done this?
i was gona try the standard 415 suspension arms but after putting them on and seeing how far the front is from the chassis i put the new set back on as it seems to far away from the chassis and will understeer,plus you have no wheelbase tuning.
#1848
Tech Master
Originally posted by EVOtech
We have the square shafts and cups on the outdoor EVO4 and the Tamiya shafts and cups on the indoor EVO4. The Tamiya parts are cheaper than square ones and they are as good, in my opinion. They are virtually identical.
The only thing I don't particularly like is they both use a rubber ring around the rear cup to hold a loose pin securing it to the shaft. If the ring snapped in a race, bye-bye pin and bye-bye front drive.
Both ours also use the bomber shaft, which is a v good piece of kit.
The rear uprights are good if you use threadlock on the bearings to hold them in tight.
To replace the battery bar, either use a Yokomo MR-4 bar and enlarge the holes a little (outdoor car, crashed many a time, never lost a battery) or use a TT-01 alloy bar modified a little (indoor car, not crashed but equally never lost a battery).
We have the square shafts and cups on the outdoor EVO4 and the Tamiya shafts and cups on the indoor EVO4. The Tamiya parts are cheaper than square ones and they are as good, in my opinion. They are virtually identical.
The only thing I don't particularly like is they both use a rubber ring around the rear cup to hold a loose pin securing it to the shaft. If the ring snapped in a race, bye-bye pin and bye-bye front drive.
Both ours also use the bomber shaft, which is a v good piece of kit.
The rear uprights are good if you use threadlock on the bearings to hold them in tight.
To replace the battery bar, either use a Yokomo MR-4 bar and enlarge the holes a little (outdoor car, crashed many a time, never lost a battery) or use a TT-01 alloy bar modified a little (indoor car, not crashed but equally never lost a battery).
#1849
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Cool, sounds good.
I presume I could use this item as a battery bar then:
3483434879786,HIRO FACTORY,3200YEN,SY002B MR-4TC SD ALUMINUM BATTERY HOLDER BLACK
I can't find any pictures of it though.
Cool, sounds good.
I presume I could use this item as a battery bar then:
3483434879786,HIRO FACTORY,3200YEN,SY002B MR-4TC SD ALUMINUM BATTERY HOLDER BLACK
I can't find any pictures of it though.
#1851
Tech Master
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Oh okay, I'll try and find that one.
Oh okay, I'll try and find that one.
#1854
front diff
anyone have any problems with the new material front diff?
#1855
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Not as yet. I've ran with a ball diff in the front as well as the one way, both with the plastic composite material. I am ordering the Aluminium One-Way gear just as a precaution and for bling value, but I haven't had problems with the plastic. Have you?? If so, what sort of problems have you been having??
#1856
Tech Master
Originally posted by F. Alonso
Hehehehe, I'm the Anti-Schumacher!!!
I don't think you'd be surprised seeing how much I get for having this nickname. Hahaha
Hehehehe, I'm the Anti-Schumacher!!!
I don't think you'd be surprised seeing how much I get for having this nickname. Hahaha
#1857
Originally posted by F. Alonso
I've found it, I think.
http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...sd/SD_118.html
Thats it isn't it??
I've found it, I think.
http://www.yokomousa.com/newproducts...sd/SD_118.html
Thats it isn't it??
#1858
Originally posted by jeffreylin
Actually you raise the roll center if you put shims under the blocks to raise the inner side of the lower arm. The opposite is true with the upper link.
Actually you raise the roll center if you put shims under the blocks to raise the inner side of the lower arm. The opposite is true with the upper link.
#1859
does the evo iv come with two ball diffs or one ball diff and a one-way?
i'm jumping into electrics and i was looking at this, trf-415, and yokomo cgm.
thanks
i'm jumping into electrics and i was looking at this, trf-415, and yokomo cgm.
thanks
#1860
Tech Regular
The IV comes with a front one-way diff and a rear ball diff but if you want brakes just buy a rear diff and put it in the front
Chazz
Chazz