Bodies....I 've been looking at slot cars recently(again) and,the fastest cars are based on loose(very loose) interpretations of WSC/LeMans type bodies.....which some call door stops...they dont even look like real cars....so you dont really drive them like a real car.....the trend lately is scale bodies in 1/32 scale...cars that look exactly like real cars and drive(more closely) like a real car..not something that is totally stuck to the track...what fun is it to drive something that you dont have to think about.....Somebody tell me how any of the Speed8(Bentley) bodies look like the real thing..........NONE.....the Bentley doesnt have high swooping fins on its ass...the Bentley has a rear wing...not a spoiler...the Speed8 looks like the bastard of the P-35.......give me a real race car..........problem is......A Panoz prolly wouldnt handle as well as the Caddy or and Audi...so what would end up happening...we'd all be driving an Audi....cause nobody wants to look good,. but get their ass kicked.....enuff rambling....just my .02

Oh yeah....the Panoz and Marcos slot cars have the motors in the front....just like the real thing........:nod:

Adrian - thanks for the picture of your body. Looks pretty good. You can see a picture of my car on the front of the Speedmerchant web page. www.teamspeedmerchant.com

HI,I KNOW THIS DOES'NT HAVE MUCH TO DO WITH 1/12TH,BUT I NEED A HAND MAKING HEAD AND TAILS OF MY CHARGER (NOVAK MELLINIUM)I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT ELICTRICAL READINGS ,SO TO SEE WHATS MY BEST BATTERY IVE ALWAYS LOOKED AT THE VOLTS E.G 6.36 IS BETTER THAN 6.05 BUT I THINK IVE GOT IT TOTALY WRONG,COULD ANY ONE TELL ME WHAT TO READ TO COMPARE MY BATTERYS & WHAT THEY STAND FOR,
THESE ARE MY BATTERYS READINGS WHEN I LAST CHARGED THEM

1. 6.05V 3556 SEC 2. 6.30V 2481 SEC
2244MAH 48342J 2205MAH 47634J

3. 6.36V 3556SEC 4. 5.79V 483 SEC
3161MAH 68616J 429MAH 8832J

5. 5.81V 155SEC 6. 5.79V 1024SEC
138MAH 2826J 910MAH 2856J

What do i look at to see which are my best batterys is the mah=how much the charger has put in the batterys??i dont understand any of it except for the sec..(4-6 are 6month old batterys i useally press start again and charge at 4.5Amps-5.0amps on the old ones and generally the V ends up around 6.30v)ive been using the v to compare them but what put me off is that 1.=6.05v 2.=6.30v but the mah on 1. is more than 2.
Hope some one can help
cheers
steve ???

Stevie- Hard to read your numbers. If they are accurate then you have some poor packs. However, I don't think that's the issue (poor packs) although it could be. It seems that first off you are not discharging your packs to a consistent point such as 3.6v for 4 cell packs and 5.4v for 6 cell packs (.90v/cell). Therefore when you go to charge your packs again you have them with different amounts of charge left in them and this will give poor, inconsistent readings because some will take longer to charge because they have less charge in them then others which were left with more charge in them. So discharge the batteries to the above voltages and then after they cool charge them and record the numbers.

Concerning the numbers the real problem is that charge readings are not too helpful for determining pack performance because of the algorithem that they must use for MAH/Joules or MilliAmp Hours.

With that said you can get some general idea of possible pack performance using the charge numbers so this is what I look for.

#1. Charge time (this lets me know if there has been a false peak. Anything under 2300sec. with a properly discharged pack is a false peak for 3000's) Pack should be warm to the touch also.

2. MAH (this gives a ruff idea of capacity, for 3000's 3200mah and up is good. If this number decreases from the original 1st and 2nd charges by more than 300mah then you have more than likely lost capacity, that is bad in modified racing of any type.

3. Peak Voltage (To a point lower is better it seems which is good. If I remember correctly if your voltage gets higher than .10v-.15v/pack on a consistent basis compared to the original 1st and 2nd charges AND, your CHARGE TIME INCREASES, then you are LOSING PUNCH which is to say that the Internal Resistance has increased, this is bad.

4. Joule Ratings are nice but since they are the combination of Charge time, Charge Rate, and Peak Voltage if you increase any one of those three parameters you will increase the Joule Rating. As I just wrote in #3 if you have an increase in charge time AND and increase in peak voltage then that is a bad thing from a performance standpoint. Joule Ratings don't make this differentiation for you so don't count on it is my advise to you.

Now, the charge readings ARE good for keeping track of individual packs as you can see from above for determining if they are losing performance. That is the main thing that I use the charge readings for, and that's what I would advise you to do as well. Hope this helps.

DS- So I take it that you dislike the Speed8 body? LOL, hehehehe
Most of the 12th bodies that I have seen for competition look pretty good to me and yes, some look more realistic than others. I don't know if that's saying I can go with the flow on this or I have lousy taste. LOL

Yes Kev, I already know... you're going to say I have lousy taste and then some....LOL, hehehehe

Hmmmm, there is no "e" in algorithm. Maybe I don't have lousy taste but poor eyes. LOL

Darnold....I really dont hate the Speed8.....Its a very attractive body....but it in no way resembles its full size counterpart...thats all i'm saying.(I have 2 Speed8's).....A body i really liked was the
Protoform Intrepid.....:nod:

Dave AKA Tiger....Lousy taste..........that would be too nice to say. I have seen some of your paint jobs. And Im not talking about the ones that Rob painted for you. Yeah the Speed 8 body is UGLY. They should make more bodies like the real cars or close to them. The Panos or Audi would be awsome or a Speed 8 that looks like the real thing.

PS nex time you need bodies painted dont call on me:lol: If you do it will be a nice white body with white flames that run into a serries of white lines that all fades in to a lovely shade of the same color white. :cool:

And Im outa here........FOUR.....:rolleyes:

I don't know why, but you've obviously stolen "my" paint scheme.:lol:

Trips....My bad;) Then I will change it to White with flames that run into dripps and a racing stripe on the left side with a fade over 50% of the body with the same color white. Hows that one???????

will the Lunsford Ti turnbuckles fit on an AE 1/12th front end? or do I need the AE ones?

The 1/12 scale mod class has been cancelled at the ROAR paved On-road Nats. What's up with that?

Trinity Switchblade 12
 

Does anybody know where I can get specs for Trinity Switchblade 12

Thank you

Nick

there were only 4 entries!!!

I have seen them run the class with 6 entries. What is the problem?