hi guys...need to noe wats the ideal gearing for a 9x2 both 6 and 4 cells...thanx btw i'm runnin a sp12g3 on tarmac, track is pretty small and i want more "pick up" rather than rpm...

Here's a look at the front chassis brace I made for my Switchblade as a temporary solution until Trinity can get a real one to me. I said it would be ugly, and I wasn't kidding...

You can also see the Mtroniks Cubic speed control in there... look close, the thing is tiny.

http://www.concentric.net/~trips/sb12/sb12a.jpg

Trips

I would stay with that one, looks nice.
I have one question how come my switchblade does not staighten out?

Ozone- Not sure how many times there is an ideal gearing for any motor. I try to gear according to the power curve of the motor regardless of the track. I do this by dynoing the motor and finding the rpm's that peak h.p. occurs at. From there I try to gear in order to get at the peak h.p.. Many gear according to the longest straight so that the motor winds out about 3/4 of the way down it. Using my method (you sure you want to try this? LOL!) I have found that in general Ti motors peak h.p. occurs around these rpm's:
11 Turn= 16-17k (30/100 at 1.85" Rear Tire for all subsquent)
10 Turn= 18-19k (28/100)
9 Turn= 22k (25/100)
8 Turn= 25k (23/100)

It seems like P94's in my dyno testing develop their h.p. in a higher rpm range so I would lower 1-2 teeth on the pinion for each wind.


I now run the Luna Ti Motor for SpeedWorld/Sorex and after some initial testing have found its powerband to be similar to the P94's even though it is Ti based. These motors are awesome and I will be running these pure over the counter motors this season. The winding job is awesome like an Orion and the wire combinations, balancing, and magnets are great. If you guys are looking to try a motor give SpeedWorld a call or you can order online from them. I highly recommend the 9W if you will only be running Sanyo HV's and the 9S if you will be running the new 3300's. If you want a 10turn initial testing by other team members has shown the doubles to be best. Also the 8 Turns are great and would highly recommend them if you think you can make time or just want to try the speed. Something else you will notice is the smoothness and efficiency of the motors so give them a try.

BTW in no way am I saying that other motors aren't great and shouldn't be tried. I am simply saying that after testing over the counter Luna winds from SpeedWorld I was really impressed with what I ran and wanted to let everyone else know about them.

Hope this helps.

Trips- Good job dude. BTW you may want to try the rear suspension links (towards the servo) in the hole further outward so that the front and back links are parallel. This gives more camber gain which allows you to use less reactive caster. Try both positions and let me know what you think. You may also want to try the medium ball stud for the back links to get a little more reactive caster. Again I would be interested in whatt you think about it.

Also, you probably want to round off the front of the clevises so that the outside front wheel doesn't catch when turned near maximum deflection. The instruction manual mentions it in section 15 noting it as a racers tip.

Regarding the radio install, if you can you may want to sit your rx on its long side and mount it behind the servo. That way you can put the transponder mount on the chassis for lower cg.

darnold: thanx for the tips dude....btw no way i can try ur method as i hav got no dyno :(

AE Racer- Not sure what you mean by "switchblade doesn't want to straighten out". If you mean that going down the straight away the car doesn't run straight then I would check your wheel alignment (toe).

You probably already know all of this but I will post it for review just in cases.

Set the wheels so that they are straight when the servo is dead center.

Then I would make sure the steering trim is set to center for equal steering left to right.

With all of this done if the servo is not dead center when the system is on then you need to pull of the servo saver from the servo and put it back on as close to center as possible.

Then if you have sub trim on your radio I would use that to get the servo to be centered from there.

Also your front tires need to be pretty close to the same size and the rears to for that matter. A slipping diff can cause the car to pull when you get on the power but so to can low grip. Also check your tweak like the instruction tell you before every run just to make sure because that could cause symptoms of what you may be describing.

If you mean something else we will need more info in order for someone to help you out so let us know.

Thanks for the tips...

It's not clear in the picture, but those are the tall ballstuds in the rear, I'll try the other combinations when the real part arrives.

I did notch the fronts of the clevises a bit, again, it's not really clear in the pic.

AS far as the receiver goes, that XXXTRA is in there just for tonight, I'm getting an XXL to replace it in this car.
Later,

T

where did you get the mtroniks cubic esc and how much did it cost. i saw a picture and it is 2cm long, less than an inch.

Small...it certainly is!!:nod: :nod:

Hobby People and Maximizer Products both sell the Mtroniks speedos.

http://www.hobbypeople.net
http://www.maximizerproducts.com

http://www.concentric.net/~trips/cubic/cubic.jpg

Trips

sorry to ask so many questions but i cant find much info. what gauge wires does it use and does it have any kind of warranty. i am choosing between this and a quantum.

It looks like you can solder any wire on there that you want to (which I like)

It also looks like it's amp capacity is waaay beyond what the Quantam has. . .

So, how reliable is it, how good is it. . .etc. :p

Okay 12L3 runners,

Still have an on power push. Couldn't do the center screw in the T-plate thing because my motor wouldn't slide up enough to get my pinion on and didn't have my Screw box with me. I have since replaced the lock nut with one that's flatter for that ever precious space needed for motor adjustments. So it's back in. Is there anythig else I should try to gain more steering. Again, this is an on power push I'm trying to get rid of. My current set-up:


stock settings
purple fronts
gray rears
2 deg neg camber
2.5 mm ride height

HELP!!!! :cry:

Try less front camber. –1 degree should be enough and that will add all-around steering.

Did you actually get to run it with the center screw in the T-bar? Sorry, I’m not quite clear on that.