The other thing we are finding with these stock motors is that they really begin to slow after three runs. Meaning we are cutting the coms after three runs max. At big events we cut them after every run!! We go through a bunch of motors looking for the best, believe me, there are differences, and save the top performers for bigger races.

You know, keep Godzilla in the can until you need him!! Evaluate your competition and use only enough to barely win. If you go out each night and crush everyone, no one will want to play with you.

Picco007,
As you know I'm running a 9X3 at 34-35mm rollout. One thing that could be causing your runtime issues is rear tire size. I think your tires last week were a little big and even though you adjust your rollout there is still too much rotating mass. As you tires get smaller so does the weight and run time goes up a bit.
JohnB is right, some are just easier on the throttle. The more you run the car the faster you will get believe me. Your not the only one with runtime issues Hang in there
Paul

Hi Picco,

I'm right with you, I don't like this tippy tappy stuff on the throttle, I like to sqeeze it untill it squeals in pain.... Unfortunately this is not how you race mod 12th, maybe the 3700 cells will help a little. I have been running my 9x2 a few times and it is ballistically fast, but I have to be really gently with the dangerous stick (yes I drive with a stick radio). My 11 turn died recently (RIP) so my next motor will is a 13 wind but it's too slow, however I can hit the throttle as much as I like. Hopefully EJ will turn up at the track this week and I can get an 11 or maybe a 12 wind from him, I'd like a single this time.

Chris

Most of the really fast pros that run 8-10T motors may run several laps without ever using full throttle. The use a squirt of full throttle to make a pass. Usually late in the race when they are fairly sure that have conserved enough batts to go for it. 1/12th Mod is all about strategy. Use the first few minutes of the race to set yourself up to be in a good position to make a late race charge for position. If you are the leader and you have a little gap on 2nd you roll the throttle and listen to the announcer. If 2nd is gaining you use a little more throttle to maintain your interval. The only way to learn to drive like this is to pracitce...A LOT. Running 1/12th Mod AND being really fast takes tremendous discipline.

This is like driving my 8th scale Nitro. I do lots of feathering throttle movements because the motors are torquey. So it's like aim and throttle; aim and throttle; aim and throttle. I'm more comfortable driving this way of driving than modulating the throttle. You guys think 8th scale Nitro and 12th scale mod driving styles are similar?

Hi Adrian,

Yes you are right, I ran my 9x2 for our recent competition here, I don't think I got even close to using full throttle for the first 3 minutes of any of my races, I also program a delay into my transmitter too. I managed to take third in the end but I had nothing in my cells at the end of every race. It's even more difficult when you are chasing your setup too.

revzalot,

If you are going to race stock, that is an easier way in, launching into Mod will not be a good idea. But with 12th you have to drive around the corner and be smoother with the throttle. Nothing like nitro at all.

Come and talk to me on Saturday if you are coming out to Stockton, just ask for Dusty.

Chris

Run Magenta/Pink in mod, and Purple/Gray in stock.

Start with a 1.60-1.65 rollout on a monster, and a 1.50 with a Roar Epic. And I run a 1.45-1.50 on PT 10x2's.

Thanks. Will do. Are you going to bring your Pro Trak? I'd like to take a look at it.

Rev,

yes i have a customer for a Pro Trak this weekend, and I'll be running mine as always with my laptop hook up running.

thanks.....what about a starting rollout using a 19T? C2 or Reedy Quad

Here's another theory about run time.
Your current when accelerating from 0 to top speed is around the 120 A.
When you're driving at full speed your current will be around the 2 to 5 A.
So if you're running at full speed most of the time, you'll be using less energie.
In other words, the faster you go (through A turn) the less energy you'll use.

What I'm trying to say, it doesn't really that matter if you're driving at top speed or not.
It's better to drive in A clean "flow".
Don't yank the throttle, but squeeze it slowly when coming out A corner.
This will take A lot of practise, but these days there are many transmitters with good traction control
and all those other things, use them!
I don't really like to use those driver aids, but they will help you to lower your tracktimes...

Building a 12l4 and after putting front wheels(new trc purles) on noticed that the front axles seem longer than the width of the wheel. They slide back and forth at least 1/8 inch. Do I need to add shims between the wheel and steering block???? On a carpet knife I have they seem to narrow also. Any help would be gratly appreciated.

yes shim them out. just make sure you don't do too much. it will bind up the front bearings.

Nexus - I run a 35 or 36 pinion with a 96 spur with a Reedy 19 Quad. This is with the rear tires around 1.80". My Hyperdrive Pro 12 comes with IRS rear pod plates and that lets me run the rear tires down to skins

The hot Reedy 19T setup for 1/12th is the EA F-Brush with a 3/32" hole 3/32" deep and Trinity green springs (6.0 on fiddle stick) on both sides.

For sedan the setup is the same but run the stiffest springs you can find. Paradigm Black Xtra Heavy are really good.